If the CC is only one drop you are fine. That just means the CC is less than 0.5 but more than zero.
My pool guy quit!
- Thread starter cottielee
- Start date
Updated results of my pool SLAM
Jan 14 7:30 pm
FC 19
CC 0.5
Jan 15 5:30 am
FC 18.5
CC 0.5
I think I passed OCLT here. I added more bleach because I forgot to put in all my
poles, nets and hoses in the pool so I decided to SLAM it for a few more days
with all my equipment in the pool.
added 22 oz 12.5% bleach
Jan 16 5:15 am
FC 18
CC 0
added 30 oz 12.5% bleach
Jan 16 10:30 pm
FC 14.5
CC 0
added 82 oz 12.5% bleach
Jan 17 6:15 am
FC 20.5
CC 0
Jan 19 4:00 pm
FC 13
CC 0
ph 7.8
CH 180
TA 170
The water looks beautiful. Clear and sparkling. There does appear to be some slight staining on the walls in the deep end of the pool.
I also noticed my CH is low and my TA is high. I will retest later today because my results differ from the test results at Leslies.
Any advice on what I should do next?
Jan 14 7:30 pm
FC 19
CC 0.5
Jan 15 5:30 am
FC 18.5
CC 0.5
I think I passed OCLT here. I added more bleach because I forgot to put in all my
poles, nets and hoses in the pool so I decided to SLAM it for a few more days
with all my equipment in the pool.
added 22 oz 12.5% bleach
Jan 16 5:15 am
FC 18
CC 0
added 30 oz 12.5% bleach
Jan 16 10:30 pm
FC 14.5
CC 0
added 82 oz 12.5% bleach
Jan 17 6:15 am
FC 20.5
CC 0
Jan 19 4:00 pm
FC 13
CC 0
ph 7.8
CH 180
TA 170
The water looks beautiful. Clear and sparkling. There does appear to be some slight staining on the walls in the deep end of the pool.
I also noticed my CH is low and my TA is high. I will retest later today because my results differ from the test results at Leslies.
Any advice on what I should do next?
Does the staining look anything like this:cottielee said:
[center:1flpt05w]
It's probably Calcium scale. Unless you filled the pool with a water softener, I find it very hard to believe your Calcium is too low. Don't add an, fore Pete's sake, until you're totally confident of your CH test results and you've also tested the fill water you use.
High TA is no health hazard. It can promote scaling, though. Just wait until the SLAM is over and FC has dropped below 10 so the pH test is accurate, plug your numbers - all of them - into calc.html and see what your CSI is. If it comes up higher than .6, you need to worry. Otherwise, just add acid as needed to maintain pH and the high TA will naturally come down.
I'd really really really be amazed if you have low CH. But if it's true, bring a couple barrels to my house and help yourself to some of my pool water. It'll raise your CH real fast!
I want to thank everyone for helping out with the pool. Over the last three months the pool has been trouble free! I never dreamed it would be this easy. I still have a lot to learn but I feel so much more confident in taking care of the pool myself.
My only regret is that I did not find this site when we bought the house in December 2012.
My only regret is that I did not find this site when we bought the house in December 2012.
That was the good news. Now the not so good news. I think I have either copper staining or as Richard pointed out Calcium scale.
I tried to identify the stains using a Trichlor puck and Vitamin C tablets. I didn't have any luck with either. I decided to buy a Jacks Magic Stain IDentification Kit. Their Stain Solution #2 seemed to be effective at removing the stains which indicates either Copper or Calcium scale.
The problem is if I want to use their treatment to get rid of the stains I need to bypass my heater. I have never worked with PVC pipe before so I am a little hesitant about undertaking this task.
I am going to post a picture of my pump/filter/heater set up to hopefully get some suggestions on the best way to bypass the heater.
I tried to identify the stains using a Trichlor puck and Vitamin C tablets. I didn't have any luck with either. I decided to buy a Jacks Magic Stain IDentification Kit. Their Stain Solution #2 seemed to be effective at removing the stains which indicates either Copper or Calcium scale.
The problem is if I want to use their treatment to get rid of the stains I need to bypass my heater. I have never worked with PVC pipe before so I am a little hesitant about undertaking this task.
I am going to post a picture of my pump/filter/heater set up to hopefully get some suggestions on the best way to bypass the heater.
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Do you have room to expand your equipment pad? Your current set-up, while being quite compact, leaves a bit to be desired as far as being able to work on anything.
One possible solution: If that heater can be moved about a foot, you might be able to get a pair of unions, and a pair of elbows to make a loop to the current unions for the heater, taking the heater completely out of the system long enough to de-stain your pool.
One possible solution: If that heater can be moved about a foot, you might be able to get a pair of unions, and a pair of elbows to make a loop to the current unions for the heater, taking the heater completely out of the system long enough to de-stain your pool.
Good luck with your staining. Hope you get it fixed and can figure out how to by pass the heater. 
Thanks for the suggestion. I didn't think about moving the heater. I ran outside and took a look. This is what I found.
If I move the heater I guess I would have to disconnect the gas line right?
Also I was reading another thread the other day and learned what a Nature 2 system is and guess what....I have one
If I move the heater I guess I would have to disconnect the gas line right?
Also I was reading another thread the other day and learned what a Nature 2 system is and guess what....I have one
It would appear that a replumb of your pad is in your very near future.
The Nature 2 system, as you have learned, is the probable cause of your staining.
For now, you can shut off and disconnect the gas line at the union next to the heater, then move it out of the way long enough to treat the stains in your pool, using the union loop I suggested. Before you reinstall the heater, you might consider having a friend that is comfortable with PVC help you replumb to get rid of the Nature 2 system.
The Nature 2 system, as you have learned, is the probable cause of your staining.
For now, you can shut off and disconnect the gas line at the union next to the heater, then move it out of the way long enough to treat the stains in your pool, using the union loop I suggested. Before you reinstall the heater, you might consider having a friend that is comfortable with PVC help you replumb to get rid of the Nature 2 system.
If I disconnect the gas line would I be able to just pick up the heater and move it or is the heater somehow anchored to the pad?
What are you thoughts on putting a bypass for both the heater and filter while treating the pool. It looks like I have room for that when I cut out the Nature 2 system.
What are you thoughts on putting a bypass for both the heater and filter while treating the pool. It looks like I have room for that when I cut out the Nature 2 system.
The heater is probably not anchored to the pad, they seldom are.
I'd leave the filter in, you may still have some of the Nature 2 crud inside it, and it won't hurt your carts.
I'd leave the filter in, you may still have some of the Nature 2 crud inside it, and it won't hurt your carts.