Returning Algae

Dot should be completely gone. Was you back to the sun? Did you dump the mixture back and forth to see if you were consistent?

Does but really matter when you start to SLAM. If you are seeing algae, the the pool is not "clear" and you need to pass the OCLT.
 
The sun was kind of to my side, so that the sample wouldn't be in my shadow. And I tried the test a few times. Dot edges barely visible at 70 ppm and completely gone at 55 ppm.

I'll start the SLAM process this evening after giving kids a chance to swim..and giving my new whale brush time to arrive today.
 
Did you test for CC? You only show FC and TC. If you did the math and just reported TC, go ahead and skip TC in the future and just report CC.

We use Total Alkalinity for everything we discuss here, not Adjusted Alkalinity. The pool calculator takes that into account when used.

You want bright sun, but the sample should be in the shade (your shadow is perfect). Appears like your cya is 55 ppm from your description, but I would repeat with the sun at your back to be sure.

mishawver said:
When I start the SLAM process, is it best to start at night?
It really doesn't matter since it is likely you will go for a couple of days at SLAM level anyways.

mishawver said:
Since my water is clear and I have no CCs, would I expect the SLAM process to be completed quickly and be relying on the OCLT to tell me when complete?
You may get measurable CCs as you raise your FC up to SLAM level. All three criteria need to be met simultaneously. Of course if you are still seeing piles of dead algae or the green on the walls, you are not done with the SLAM process.

mishawver said:
After what I've learned here, I'm not sure if I can swim in public pool again.
I pretty much don't anymore.
 
I did test for CCs, it was zero. I'll report CC in future. I am going to start the SLAM process this evening after kids swim. I will do the CyA test in full sunlight to ensure I am picking the right FC target.
 
Started SLAM last night. I took first sample 2 hours after I added bleach and first thing this morning before sun came out. I swept down sides and bottom of pool before adding and also last night after taking sample.

8PM
FC: 27 ppm
CC: <= 0.5 ppm

6:30AM
FC: 27 ppm
CC: <=0.5 ppm

The pool was clear this morning. I swept sides and bottoms. The dust coming off sides appeared to be more whitish than green. I did not notice a greenish tint as I had since my problem started. It was really hard to distinguish but definitely not the same as I have been seeing. What is the white dusty material? Could that be the sides of the pool or mineral deposits?

For CC, I put <=0.5 because when I added the reagent for CC test, it turned a very very very light shade of pink. I had to hold up to white paper to make sure it had actually changed. And it cleared with one drop. So there is some but maybe not up to the 0.5ppm, which is max for test criteria.

So for the three criteria: alge, clearness, OCLT......I've passed 2 definitely. I feel like the algae test is okay too but still unsure about white film. Was going to brush again when brighter outside to see if I can tell more.

I did overshoot my target FC. I was going for 24 but reached 27. I checked the pool measurements myself this morning and did another pool volume check. My original volume was off. My new volume is a closer match with what the pool calculator predicted.

Suggestions on what to do next to ensure I have completed the SLAM process. How much FC should is typically lost on a sunny day? I have a 3 ppm buffer to remain at SLAM levels.

And the test kit is great!! Only problem was the chlorine test graduated cylinder. It was cracked on the bottom. I can still use but did notice this morning that is does leak a tiny bit. It had a sticker that says chlorine only...so not sure if that is to make sure that I only do chlorine test in that one and not use the 2nd graduated cylinder. Is that for cross contamination purposes?
 
PM your name to me and we'll send you a new cylinder right away. The "chlorine Only" is there because, over a long time, the DPD powder will build up a dark residual on the sides of the cylinder that is inconvenient doing the other tests.

It is fine to use the other cylinder until your new one gets to you....it takes a many. many tests for the residual to build up.

Don't let that cracked cylinder go, though.....send us your name and we'll get the new one right out.
 
2nd morning of SLAM. Water clear and OCLT was 0.5ppm. Here are levels

FC 21 ppm
CC 0.5 ppm or less
water crystal clear

When I run brush along bottom of pool I still stir up some dust but it white/grey. It isn't as much as past couple weeks, but still there. Is this something to still be concerned about.

Should I consider SLAM complete and continue to brush and let filter try to get dust or is dust too small for filter. Would a vacuum of bottom be in order after letting pool settle awhile.

One more side question. We are supposed to get rain. I really welcome rain since it has been dry for a couple months, but I have pool on the mend and dont' want to upset it again. Any link to some good threads on this topic. What to watch. How soon too add chemicals. What to do if one of these couple day rains...wait till over to adjust.
 
I would just keep filtering and brushing, but you might want to consider trying this: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/add_de_to_a_sand_filter Also, I probably would keep it at SLAM level one more day at least to confirm the debris continues to decrease (and do another OCLT and CC test overnight).

Normal amounts of rain shouldn't be an issue and can usually be ignored.
 
Okay, I added more bleach to bring back up to shock levels and brushed the sides and floor. Some followup questions:

I have a couple leaves on bottom that I really don't want to hook up the vacuum so I thought about putting the dolphin in. Could the high chlorine levels damage dolphin for short time use?

I haven't used the dolphin for about 5 days now. I just took the filter bag off to clean out. There was some white/grey particles on inside of filter bag. I've seen this when I use the polaris too. white appeared fluffy/flakey the grey was gritty. I'm wondering if this is what I'm seeing when I brush floor. Is filter sand white, could we have sand from filter? I do complete a rinse cycle after backwash to settle the sand back down.

The filter also had a film of alage all over the inside but I figure that is from being wet and setting for five days without being cleaned. I rinsed the bag and have soaking in a solution of bleach.

I'll look at using DE although I'll have to ask for the aid of my husband to open up filter. I'm not ready to do that solo yet. He rolls his eyes at me when I get my test kit out and sample few times a day and brush several times a day. He will thank me when he has a pristine pool to swim in.
 

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You do not open the filter to add DE ... read the link linen provided.

Also, you really are not supposed to leave the dirt/gunk in the robot like that. You should clean it when you pull it out of the pool and let it dry clean.
 
Patience for a few more follow questions...For the 3rd morning, the OCLT was less than 1 ppm and CC were zero this morning and last night. Water is clear and no visible algae. So I stopped the SLAM process. This afternoon I put in the dolphin cleaner to pick up some leaves and also to see if it would get some of the sediment I see when running the brush.

Once I ran dolphin for few hours, I took off the bag. The water that dripped into bucket I was carrying in was green. I had cleaned the bag with diluted bleach solution day prior to using. The white sediment was also in the bag. The pictures show the water that came from filter bag and the white stuff. Since that water was green, does that mean I'm not done, that alage is still there.

Any idea what the white sediment is..sides of pool, sand, minerals, salts, byproducts?

Also, my filter pressure has increased 3 psig, from 10 psig, since starting. I going to backwash this evening. So it is catching stuff.

Thanks
 

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