Think I may have found my FC demand issue?

Here's and update..

Yesterday:
Pulled fixture completely out. Glad I did. Cable was slimy most of the way.. except the last foot or so. Which makes sense as the conduit is probably below water level till it crosses the pool deck then up to the junction box which is raised above the pool deck off to the side. Now I had an open pipe from pool deck to niche. Decided to pour straight 12% chlorine down the pipe from the pool deck. Probably a half gallon or so in total with some in then chasing some with a hose. Quite a bit more "gunk" was ejected out of the niche. Chased that down with more 12% down the top pipe and let that sit dilute on it's own time.

Also while doing this process grabbed various size/shape small wire brushes typically used in plumbing and cleaning pipes. Mask, snorkle, and a lot of breath holding basically polished that niche. No black stains or anything left got good around where the conduit interfaces to the can and also around the ground lug. It's gleaming shiny now. Even got into the conduit a few inches as far as I could reach. Vacuumed to waste whatever remained on the floor new and old then did a nice backwashing.

Tested at bed time and chlorine was just at shock level. Decided to just leave it there for morning check of OCLT as opposed to "boosting" it to nuclear levels as I had been doing.

Today:
PASSED OCLT! no loss from 11:30pm to 7:30am some minor sun had hit the pool I was only hoping for something close as prior it had been at least a loss of 3 and before finding the light issue was sometimes 6.

Now slight confession is that I've switched to doing the 5ml FC test in an effort to conserve test solution. I've been going through it like mad with no improvement and the shock levels were so high that I needed lots o drops each time. What I'm getting at is there is much more room for error using the 5ml test and looking for a 1PPM tolerance in the OCLT. 1. Now the resolution of the test is in 1PPM increments (1 drop either way) and now your water measurment volume has 2 chances for slight variance error. 1. the pool water fill of 5ml and then the 5ml top off on top of it. Then doing it twice the same (night test, and morning test).. too much chance for error if looking for a one drop or less difference.

I'll let it roll today. I didn't add anything extra but I should only be losing due to sun now in theory. Bring it back to shock close to dark let it mix and test at bed time with full 10ml test. Then test tomorrow morning with 10ml... and then hopefully let it drift down to normal levels and programmer the stenner to add based on whatever new loss rates I determine from the burn off with current temps etc.. Hoping to now be back to acceptable FC demand rates!!

This had to have been brewing for some time.. It's probably never been cleaned out since new. The pool sat as a green swamp for an unknown period (perhaps an entire season not being opened) before we inherited it. It was also a green swamp last year at open. Both years had chlorine demand really spike as temps came up mid summer. Followed by the endless use of lots of chlorine and frequent shocking. This is what drove me to change my approach this year and try BBB getting my CYA in check etc.. was making good headway until the last few weeks where it was like I couldn't add enough liquid to keep up it was quickly apparent that something was hiding.
 
The "mid summer green" is what got me to convert to the BBB method. I have learned that this is the result of following the pool store directions and ignorance on my part. Each spring i would get the pool de-swamped and full of clean water. I would add the stuff from the pool store and bag and puck myself to high CYA (not that I knew this)... then we would get hot in July or August, the pool would get greenish or fuzzy and no matter how many puck or bags I used...green water.

The BBB methods work because of knowledge from accurate testing to control the CYA and chlorine (as well as the other chemicals). You test, you know what you need, you add ONLY what you need, your water gets and stays crystal clear, you get "sparkly pool-ititis" and you never accept fuzzy water again.
 
I would add the stuff from the pool store and bag and puck myself to high CYA (not that I knew this)... then we would get hot in July or August, the pool would get greenish or fuzzy and no matter how many puck or bags I used...green water.

**GUILTY**

TFP has been a lifesaver.
 
jerallen said:
I would add the stuff from the pool store and bag and puck myself to high CYA (not that I knew this)... then we would get hot in July or August, the pool would get greenish or fuzzy and no matter how many puck or bags I used...green water.

**GUILTY**

TFP has been a lifesaver.


I think EVERYONE here is guilty of this and WHY we are her. Tired of being POOL STORED to the poor house.
 
The slimy cable in the conduit is likely to be biofilm, not algae, since there is virtually no light through most of its length. There should be very little circulation of water through that conduit so while there might be biofilm, it probably doesn't exert much chlorine demand. The high chlorine usage was more likely from just behind the light where there was a lot of algae and a little more circulation to consume the chlorine though it's still a bit surprising to be enough to as high as you saw. Usually, the problem with algae behind the light niche is that it gets reintroduced into the pool which for yellow/mustard algae is a big problem since we don't keep the chlorine levels high enough to kill it -- the levels we recommend are enough to keep green and black algae from growing when exposed to those chlorine levels.
 
would a biofilm be "blackish"? It was almost like the demand wouldn't be a problem if the pool sat still.. but if the army of kids showed up for the weekend and got the water really "stirring" with jumping in and sliding etc the the demand would go up... easily chalked up to must be from the additional bathing load. Wow those dirty kids. Looking back maybe the water was stirring the gunk a little behind the fixture. The pool was on cruise control with the stenner masking the problem a bit. Demand was increasing but could easily be accounted for as well temps are increasing etc as summer wears on ... guess I'll just as another 10 minutes to the timer.. At this point resting on my laurels marveling at how awesome my new pool care system is and using BBB. Then waking up to a bit cloudy water one morning and confidence shattered with FC levels right on the target level due to automated adding system. There I was along with every other pool owner mid summer doing the "shock" routine. A quick couple gallons in the pool and it was crystal within a few hours. knew something was up but had the holiday weekend upon us with many visitor party plans. Let it come back down to normal but high levels to at least ride it out a bit and take care of it later.. sure enough another cloudy morning was only a few days away. It was time to do something. I even pulled the ladder out thinking something may be lurking in there. The fixture and ladder will be fully sanitized prior to entry into the pool.. Maybe even bathers will need a chlorine bath prior to entering the pool for now on.. or maybe I'll just use it for looking... sorry no bathers allowed in the pool :)
 
zamboniman said:
would a biofilm be "blackish"?
Normally the biofilm would be more translucent if bacteria. It might be darker if it's mold/fungus. Behind your light niche could certainly be black algae but whatever it is you want it gone and you're doing that. Yeah, perhaps the change in water pressure from the water level rising and falling with wave motion had pool water go into and out of the light niche bringing stuff into the pool that when bleached out by chlorine could still be dull/cloudy in appearance.
 
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