60 days in and just validating my test

[RuggedPool]

Hi

new pool and new to pools, I posted about a month ago that my SWG wasn't working, so I was using liquid chlorine until I got it straightened out. I last put liquid chlorine in about 10 days ago and the SWG has been working for about a week now. Here are my readings:

water temp: 82 'F but it's about to get colder.
pH: 7.7 (I'll add some muriatic acid)
TA: 90
FC: 13
CC: 0
CH: 470
CYA: 50
Salt: 3200
my aquapure was at 60% so I just lowered it to 40%. I do not know how to turn it off or set it to a schedule, if that is even possible.
my pump runs for 12 hrs a day at 2700rpm.

what else should I do

 

[HermanTX]

Always trust your testing of salt (which kit are you using?) vs the salt reading output of the AquaPure SWG. Mine rarely match. Just so long as the SWG is happy.

Your CYA is a little low for use with a SWG but if you going to close (are you using a cover?) then no need to adjust. Be prepared in Spring to add stabilizer.

Your CH is on the high side - not terrible. Do you have hard water? Just be wary of that going forward.

Your TA will come down over time as you continue to add MA.

Please add to your signature the following
Type and Model of Pump
Do you have the AquaLink automation? Add that info
Type of test kit you are using
Type of plaster

Thanks.

 

[RuggedPool]

Always trust your testing of salt (which kit are you using?) vs the salt reading output of the AquaPure SWG. Mine rarely match. Just so long as the SWG is happy.

Your CYA is a little low for use with a SWG but if you going to close (are you using a cover?) then no need to adjust. Be prepared in Spring to add stabilizer.

Your CH is on the high side - not terrible. Do you have hard water? Just be wary of that going forward.

Your TA will come down over time as you continue to add MA.

Please add to your signature the following
Type and Model of Pump
Do you have the AquaLink automation? Add that info
Type of test kit you are using
Type of plaster

Thanks.

Good questions, I'll get those details added ASAP.
I'm in midTN and do not have a cover or plans to cover/close.
Yes, I have iAqualink and my setting in the app says salt is 3000pm so close to my test.
I used the TF-Pro Salt test kit.

 

[RuggedPool]

Always trust your testing of salt (which kit are you using?) vs the salt reading output of the AquaPure SWG. Mine rarely match. Just so long as the SWG is happy.

Your CYA is a little low for use with a SWG but if you going to close (are you using a cover?) then no need to adjust. Be prepared in Spring to add stabilizer.

Your CH is on the high side - not terrible. Do you have hard water? Just be wary of that going forward.

Your TA will come down over time as you continue to add MA.

Please add to your signature the following
Type and Model of Pump
Do you have the AquaLink automation? Add that info
Type of test kit you are using
Type of plaster

Thanks.

so my FC reading isn't overly concerning?

 

[reggiehammond]

so my FC reading isn't overly concerning?

No - it looks GREAT!

You are right to reduce SWCG generation now that the days are getting shorter, but use the FC/CYA chart. It's a GREAT idea to stay at the top end of the range, why flirt with minimum and algae? FC/CYA Levels

In the summer, in full sun, CYA likely needs to be 70-80. The lower the CYA, the more FC you have to generate due to UV loss.

To your earlier question, SWCG are dumb. They're on or off. You set the percentage of generation (on/off time over a set time period internal to SWCG) and pump run time. It's a basic math problem - you need to generate ~4ppm per day. Pool math can help tell you the correct amount of run time/percentage.

 

[HermanTX]

so my FC reading isn't overly concerning?

You stated the AP was set at 60% and lowered to 40%. So the FC should drift down.
Do not let the FC go lower than the low range on the FC/CYA Levels
Continue to test your FC every 2 days and see where it settles for a setting of 40%

 

[proavia]

Be aware that with FC > 10, the pH test is not accurate. It usually will read falsely high when FC is greater than 10.

 

[RuggedPool]

You stated the AP was set at 60% and lowered to 40%. So the FC should drift down.
Do not let the FC go lower than the low range on the FC/CYA Levels
Continue to test your FC every 2 days and see where it settles for a setting of 40%

Even with my SWG at 40% & the reading is 3200, my FC is 15-16. On the drop test it's burnt orange color. I do still have the pump running 10 hrs a day.

 

[Jimrahbe]

RP,

Salt cells have no brains.. They just make the amount of chlorine you tell them to make. When your FC is too high you have to turn their output down or reduce your run time.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[RuggedPool]

RP,

Salt cells have no brains.. They just make the amount of chlorine you tell them to make. When your FC is too high you have to turn their output down or reduce your run time.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Ok. I understand. I’ll reduce it to 20% and drop run time down to 8 hours.

 

[reggiehammond]

Even with my SWG at 40% & the reading is 3200, my FC is 15-16. On the drop test it's burnt orange color. I do still have the pump running 10 hrs a day.

By drop test - do you mean the OTO chlorine test? That is not how you want to measure FC - you want to use the FAS-DPD test.

 

[Newdude]

Ok. I understand. I’ll reduce it to 20% and drop run time down to 8 hours.

That will still produce .6 FC per day. You're likely only losing 1 or 2 ppm now and it might take a week or more to drift down with no production. If you produced any in that span, it'll take 2 weeks.

It's totally fine if it stretches out, just making sure you understand it might take a while

 

[RuggedPool]

That will still produce .6 FC per day. You're likely only losing 1 or 2 ppm now and it might take a week or more to drift down with no production. If you produced any in that span, it'll take 2 weeks.

It's totally fine if it stretches out, just making sure you understand it might take a while

Should I set the swcg at 0%

 

[Newdude]

You can turn it off, or you can skip a few days tests at a time once you prove it's taking forever to fall. There's no need to burn through the supplies when you know it's freeeeeeeeee and clear above minimum.

And that's the best part about regular testing and becoming one with your pool........ the tests are simply verifying that your plan is working.