Dave,
Looking at the two different pics it looks like the valve closest to the black pump is open and the pipe coming out its right side might be the main suction. The other valve right before it looks to be partially open but not sure it is not fully perpendicular to the other two possible intake pipes. You are way more of a expert than I am.
What a maze of pipes. That is quite a setup. 3 water falls man that is killer.
Here is what I found in the Ultrapure manual.
Pool Water Testing Test the water regularly using a water test kit.
Test Bromine Ideal Range 2.0 ppm
Free Available (FAC) 1.0 ppm (minimum) Total Chlorine (TC) Up to 0.5 ppm above the FAC reading pH 7.2 – 7.8
Total Alkalinity (TA) 80 – 120 ppm Calcium Hardness (CH) 200 – 300 ppm Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) 300 – 1200 ppm
Testing For UltraPure™Automatic Water Cleaner™ Efficacy USING THE ULTRAPURE™ AUTOMATIC WATER CLEANER™ AND CHLORINE/SALT OR,AN ALGAECIDE AND CHLORINE
1.Use a DPD Test Kit to periodically test for Free Available Chlorine (FAC) and Total Chlorine (TC). As long as the difference between TC and FAC is less than 0.5 ppm,the UltraPure™us doing its job (i.e.removing contaminants which form combines and use up chlorine).
2.Using UltraPure™,a Mineral Based Biostat or an Algaecide and Chlorine. Test for TC only.The TC level should be maintained at about half the normal (regional) Chlorine level (TC = 1.0 – 3.0 ppm).
3.When products contain sequestering agents,they tend to mask the FAC level. Only the TC reading is valid.
4.Periodically check the pH level and maintain it between 7.2 – 7.8
I have seen in most of the threads here ozone is a waste of money. That is what the Ultrapure is.
Jerry
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