Hello all,
I've been doing research on many things but one of the primary things I intend to do is replace my timer with a much less expensive and more convenient computer controlled contactor method as described in this guide: http://www.truetex.com/poolcontrol.htm. I've already successfully built a sodium hypo container using modified instructions from his pages and it's working VERY well.
This article also goes into a rant about cyanuric acid suggesting it's unnecessary if you have a constant source of chlorine addition during daylight hours when UV will deplete (and enough runtime after dark to have a residual build for the overnight hours). It suggests that you will use such little chlorine maintaining the very low needed FC level that it will save you a lot of money in the long run. (no CYA and chlorine is a more powerful oxidizer of algae he says). His setup can be expensive depending on whether or not you have a place to put the chlorine solution ( I don't ) and whether or not you have a cheap ebay peristalic pump or you pay full price. You don't have the temperature reducing benefits of the liquidator with the peristalic pump setup which is a large concern for me.
Is there something to what this guy is saying though? None of his points strike me as wrong or unintelligent and some very intelligent people here recommend absolutely having cyanuric acid. Well perhaps with a liquidator it's unnecessary?
Comments - specifically from waterbear, jasonlion, chemgeek, etc I am interested in
My personal thoughts are simple. If your circulation is good enough that you circulate all parts of the pool within a few hours, you'll be fine. But many pools need a full 8 hours to circulate once. In a pool like this, perhaps the algae might take hold in the uncirculated water since the FC will burn off in just a couple hours.
WHY are SWG pools recommended to have super high CYA?
I'm used to computers and cars - with swimming pools, information out there is SERIOUSLY conflicting. And I'm very obsessive so I want to know and understand everything about swimming pool chemistry now.
PS: My pool *still* won't hold FC, and is *still* perfectly clear at 70F. *grumph*
I've been doing research on many things but one of the primary things I intend to do is replace my timer with a much less expensive and more convenient computer controlled contactor method as described in this guide: http://www.truetex.com/poolcontrol.htm. I've already successfully built a sodium hypo container using modified instructions from his pages and it's working VERY well.
This article also goes into a rant about cyanuric acid suggesting it's unnecessary if you have a constant source of chlorine addition during daylight hours when UV will deplete (and enough runtime after dark to have a residual build for the overnight hours). It suggests that you will use such little chlorine maintaining the very low needed FC level that it will save you a lot of money in the long run. (no CYA and chlorine is a more powerful oxidizer of algae he says). His setup can be expensive depending on whether or not you have a place to put the chlorine solution ( I don't ) and whether or not you have a cheap ebay peristalic pump or you pay full price. You don't have the temperature reducing benefits of the liquidator with the peristalic pump setup which is a large concern for me.
Is there something to what this guy is saying though? None of his points strike me as wrong or unintelligent and some very intelligent people here recommend absolutely having cyanuric acid. Well perhaps with a liquidator it's unnecessary?
Comments - specifically from waterbear, jasonlion, chemgeek, etc I am interested in
My personal thoughts are simple. If your circulation is good enough that you circulate all parts of the pool within a few hours, you'll be fine. But many pools need a full 8 hours to circulate once. In a pool like this, perhaps the algae might take hold in the uncirculated water since the FC will burn off in just a couple hours.
WHY are SWG pools recommended to have super high CYA?
I'm used to computers and cars - with swimming pools, information out there is SERIOUSLY conflicting. And I'm very obsessive so I want to know and understand everything about swimming pool chemistry now.
PS: My pool *still* won't hold FC, and is *still* perfectly clear at 70F. *grumph*