cloudy water in endless pool

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Swan said:
dmanb2b:

The secret here is that the pool is indoors and doesn't need the stabilization of the CYA. Regarding maintaining the observation that it is "easier to maintain FC in the 2-3ppm range, rather than trying to manage FC levels at precisely 0.5-0.75ppm" comment, it is quite easy in a 2000 gallon pools to maintain the FC at .5 ppm: Once the cloudiness issue is resolved (and I'll stand by my 3 day estimate), adding 3 ounces after each swim and checking the FC the following day before swimming is really pretty simple. If the FC level is a bit higher (say 1.0 ppm), cut back on the amount you add. Simple!!

Here is what Endless Pools has to say on the subject:

26.6 Oxidation and Chlorine Requirements
The Nature 2 system included in your pool kit significantly reduces the amount of chlorine you’ll need to
use. This purifier adds silver and copper to the pool, which will kill bacteria and algae in the water. However,
it does not oxidize or “burn-up” small particles of debris in the pool. Maintaining a minimum level of 0.5
ppm free chlorine in your pool at all times is necessary. Adding 1/2 cup of Clorox a day will add about 0.5
ppm of free chlorine to a standard sized pool. How quickly that chlorine is consumed depends upon water
temperature, bather load, and the amount of direct sunlight the pool receives.
a. Chlorine Stabilizer and Outdoor Pools
Your Taylor test kit comes equipped with testing procedures for cyanuric acid. Cyanuric acid is a chlorine
stabilizer, meaning it protects chlorine from getting broken down by sunlight. If your pool is located
outdoors, we recommend using the granular form of stabilized chlorine (Should have an active ingredient of
sodium dichlor) instead of Clorox. Another option would be to supplement Clorox by adding cyanuric acid.
Either method will necessitate testing for cyanuric acid every two weeks. These chemicals are readily
available at any pool supply store.
b. Chlorine Stabilizer and Indoor Pools
Many customers are sold a stabilized chlorine product for use in their indoor Endless Pool. Endless Pools
would not recommend this practice, as Clorox bleach is ideal for this setting. Using a stabilized chlorine
source is more expensive, and it also requires the periodic testing for cyanuric acid levels. If the level gets
too high, it can render the chlorine ineffective, and it may necessitate the partial draining of the pool in order
to lower the levels.


Regards,


Swan
Click to expand...

Swan,

It's no secret the pool is indoors as the OP stated such. I'm also not advocating the use of stabilized chlorine (that's why I personally use a SWG or bleach for chlorination), but do suggest maintaining a small amount of CYA indoor pool or not.

What you are not taking into account is that if the OP's current CYA level is 100ppm+ from previous stabilized chlorine use, 3ppm FC as you are suggesting will not clear the pool in 3 weeks, let alone 3 days if the CYA level is still high. Your advice would however be correct if CYA was zero or close to it. 0.5ppm FC with no CYA in the water has much more active FC than 2-3ppm FC and CYA at 30ppm. It is for this reason that we ask our members to provide test results, and refrain from giving specific dosing advice on how to cure an issue they may have without understanding the state of current water chemistry.

I am quite familiar with the various mineral "purifier" systems and would never buy into the marketing hype nor purposely add metals to my water, but to each their own.

here is an interesting read for you on alternative sanitizers as well an older posts on FC CYA relationship and indoor pools.

alternative-sanitizers-and-chemical-free-pools-the-truth-t3025.html

cya-fc-chart-for-indoor-pool-t14878.html

2-3ppm of FC with CYA at 30 is equivalent to less than 0.1 ppm FC and no CYA. Maintaining 0.5ppm FC with 0 CYA will overtime result in faded swimsuits and less stable FC behavior.
 
Maggie:

Another thought on the testing: If the Taylor kit is difficult for you to source, you might want to try one of the ORP testers. I use a Hanna combination pH and ORP tester (HI 98121) every day before swimming and use my Taylor test kit every 3-4 weeks to confirm that the Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness are where I want them to be.

To use the Hanna, you just stick it in the water, wait about a minute and take the reading (it does pH, ORP and Temperature). What I don’t like about the meter is that you have to calibrate it once a month which involves putting in in a reference solution (pH of 7.01). It also takes about a minute.

Just another option!


Swan
 
If you are really interested, try ebay. You should be able to pick one up for about 1/2 that amount. It wasn't much of an option for me as I don't see colors well and I got tired of running to my wife and asking her: "Which color is this?" for the pH and the 2 chlorines!

How are you enjoying your EP? Do you use it much (when it isn't cloudy)?


Swan
 
Maggie, there could be two main issues causing a green tint, algae or metals. If it is Algae, algaecide is only good (marginally) as a preventative and will not clear a green pool due to an algae outbreak, that is done with chlorine and you should follow the shock process outlined in Pool School. Also, if you insist on using algaecide and since you have a Nature 2, do not use a copper based algaecide.
 

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There is no need to add algaecide after the shock process has been completed, as long as you maintain adequate FC for your CYA level. As a reminder, shocking your pool is a process, which entails raising FC to a shock level (which is dependent on your CYA level) and holding it there until all 3 criteria have been met as outlined below

pool-school/shocking_your_pool

If you suspect metals and shocking does not help the green tint subside, you should have your water tested for metal content. If high, you will need to reduce levels via partial water replacement.
 
maggiecrowe said:
Thanks. I don't use the Nature 2 anymore.
I have shocked it today. The algaecide I have states to shock, then apply after 24 hours.
So that's what I'm doing.
Click to expand...
Why are you using algaecide? What type are you using?

I saw you asked about metals, if you have stains on the pool you can are if they are from metals by using ascorbic acid (vitamin c). Many algaecides contain copper which will only make things harder if you have excess metal particles in the water already.

Sent via Tapatalk...
 
At some point Maggie you'll have to decide if you are going to listen advice given in Pool school or the guide you are referencing. When you decide, we will be here for you if you have questions regarding Pool School / TFP forum advice given, but I'll repeat...algaecide is at best a algae preventative. It will not eliminate an algae outbreak.

Have you read through pool school?
 
dmanb2b said:
At some point Maggie you'll have to decide if you are going to listen advice given in Pool school or the guide you are referencing. When you decide, we will be here for you if you have questions regarding Pool School / TFP forum advice given, but I'll repeat...algaecide is at best a algae preventative. It will not eliminate an algae outbreak.

Have you read through pool school?
Click to expand...

Please don't patronise me.
I find this comment rather unnecessarily rude.
 
I 100% agree with what dmanb2b wrote. We are 50+ posts in and you seem to be still mixing in advice you get locally. This has been proven repeatedly on the forums to just lead to more trouble and frustration for us who are trying to help. The path forward is ultimately up to you to decide what you want to do. And we have found that sometimes putting it blunt will help you realize that you need to make that decision.

What was asked was whether you had read the articles to understand our methods. If you have not, then that may explain some of the confusion (like adding algaecide which is rarely ever needed/recommended).

We are here to help, but it can get frustrating when the person needing help, "appears" to not have at least tried to read and understand our methods. I am not saying you have not, but I think dman was just trying to establish where you are in the learning curve.
 
maggiecrowe said:
dmanb2b said:
At some point Maggie you'll have to decide if you are going to listen advice given in Pool school or the guide you are referencing. When you decide, we will be here for you if you have questions regarding Pool School / TFP forum advice given, but I'll repeat...algaecide is at best a algae preventative. It will not eliminate an algae outbreak.

Have you read through pool school?
Click to expand...

Please don't patronise me.
I find this comment rather unnecessarily rude.
Click to expand...

Maggie,

I'm sorry if you found my post rude, but I would suggest you re-read your thread. I have done nothing but try to assist you, yet you have provided little evidence of accepting advice that is being given to you or willingness to learn the methods TFP has proven over and over again to work.

Look at my previous post to you, quoted below, yet you continue to prefer listening to your pool guide regarding algaecide use. I believe my last post to you in response was very matter of fact and well justified in me asking you simply if you have read through pool school. The topic of algaecide use is covered in pool school, specifically as it relates to fighting algae and that it is not effective once a algae bloom has occurred. I was trying to help you save money by advising to not utilize a product that will not help your situation.

That said, I will respect your request and will refrain from further comment on this thread. You are welcome to PM me if you wish to discuss further.

dmanb2b said:
There is no need to add algaecide after the shock process has been completed, as long as you maintain adequate FC for your CYA level. As a reminder, shocking your pool is a process, which entails raising FC to a shock level (which is dependent on your CYA level) and holding it there until all 3 criteria have been met as outlined below

pool-school/shocking_your_pool

If you suspect metals and shocking does not help the green tint subside, you should have your water tested for metal content. If high, you will need to reduce levels via partial water replacement.
Click to expand...
 

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