Hi
Not sure where to start I will try and make this short but I think it's going to be a long post with all the details so I can receive the best help possible.
About 7 years ago or more I installed a Viking Sun coast fiberglass pool, the finish is blue with a sparkle to it. The pool is 6 thousand gallons.
At the time the Viking installer suggested me installing in a FROG automatic mineral and pool chlorinator which I did and have been using it ever since.
My water always looks good and is sparkling and still does today.
My only real complaint is, I have had trouble with chlorine readings when I put new chlorine Paks in the FROG system about every 3-4 weeks .
What happens is the chlorine readings just disappear when I put a new chlorine pak in it.
I usually shock the heck out of it to get it to register again. Sometimes I even put a chlorine floater in the pool until the chlorine comes back.
But the levels are always high when the chlorine readings start to show up again.
I have been told before by a pool shop ( Leslies ) to drain the pool because my CYA levels were to high.
I was told by Viking never to drain this fiberglass pool because it could pop out of the ground .
So I drained it half way and put a pump in the deep end and fresh water in the shallow end and let it run almost over night.
That helped CYA levels down again that was a few years ago.
The big surprise to me came when the water level was half down my pool was no longer blue it was a scaling white.
So that was a few years ago. Today I still have very high CYA levels, my La Motte Color Pro plus 7 digital reader says HI which is over a 120 ppm on CYA levels.
( Yes I plan on getting the tester off your site and not using the digital reader anymore )
My walls on my pool still have white scale on them and I am losing my beautiful blue pool I once had.
So here is plan A.
I am thinking of draining the pool half way again or maybe all the way to get the CYA levels down I searched high and low on the internet and most say the pool will not pop out of the ground when drained . I probably will not drain it all the way because I am to afraid.
I was thinking of washing the sides with muriatic acid while the water was down to get some of the scaling off . Not sure if thats worth my time or not. Any ideas to remove the scaling while the water level is down ? After I put fresh water back I was going to test it with your kit off this site and post the readings and ask for help.
Ok here is Plan B.
Since all my planning over the years has put me with High CYA levels and a pool that is building scale year after year.
I am saying to all the experts out there.
What should I do ? I give up !
I am willing to listen and follow a good plan .
If this helps here are my readings from my test kit today and I went to Leslie's pool supply for a test both were close in readings . Not sure if these tests are important if I need to get this water out of this pool, I did shock the pool 2 days ago because I had no chlorine readings at all when I went to put a new Pak in the frog system.
FAC-6.63
TAC-6.63
CH -280
CYA - Hi over 100
PH- 7.6
phosphates 2000
If need be I am willing to eliminate the FROG SYSTEM even know I have about $200.00 dollars worth of Paks I just bought. I hope there is a way in the plan I could use these paks. I am guessing that is why I have the CYA levels so high ? From using the Frog system ? Maybe its good to not use the Frog system system in the winter months ?
And only use it in the summer when you might need some CYA in the water ?
What ever the case as you can tell I need some direction.
And thats why I am here for help to get me back on track.
One more thought, Is it better to drain a fiberglass pool in the summer when its dry for less chance of it popping up because the ground levels are dry then in the winter ? My soil here in California is like clay hard and packed. Thats why i think there is less a chance of the pool popping out of the ground when the water lever is lowered or drained out of the pool. We don't have high water levels underground here in San Jose California it's a very hot dry climate in the valley.
Bottom line I need help and in easy steps so I can keep it simple for a guy who is stupid enough to try it himself and to cheap to pay a professional.
Thanks so much for reading.
Mark
Not sure where to start I will try and make this short but I think it's going to be a long post with all the details so I can receive the best help possible.
About 7 years ago or more I installed a Viking Sun coast fiberglass pool, the finish is blue with a sparkle to it. The pool is 6 thousand gallons.
At the time the Viking installer suggested me installing in a FROG automatic mineral and pool chlorinator which I did and have been using it ever since.
My water always looks good and is sparkling and still does today.
My only real complaint is, I have had trouble with chlorine readings when I put new chlorine Paks in the FROG system about every 3-4 weeks .
What happens is the chlorine readings just disappear when I put a new chlorine pak in it.
I usually shock the heck out of it to get it to register again. Sometimes I even put a chlorine floater in the pool until the chlorine comes back.
But the levels are always high when the chlorine readings start to show up again.
I have been told before by a pool shop ( Leslies ) to drain the pool because my CYA levels were to high.
I was told by Viking never to drain this fiberglass pool because it could pop out of the ground .
So I drained it half way and put a pump in the deep end and fresh water in the shallow end and let it run almost over night.
That helped CYA levels down again that was a few years ago.
The big surprise to me came when the water level was half down my pool was no longer blue it was a scaling white.
So that was a few years ago. Today I still have very high CYA levels, my La Motte Color Pro plus 7 digital reader says HI which is over a 120 ppm on CYA levels.
( Yes I plan on getting the tester off your site and not using the digital reader anymore )
My walls on my pool still have white scale on them and I am losing my beautiful blue pool I once had.
So here is plan A.
I am thinking of draining the pool half way again or maybe all the way to get the CYA levels down I searched high and low on the internet and most say the pool will not pop out of the ground when drained . I probably will not drain it all the way because I am to afraid.
I was thinking of washing the sides with muriatic acid while the water was down to get some of the scaling off . Not sure if thats worth my time or not. Any ideas to remove the scaling while the water level is down ? After I put fresh water back I was going to test it with your kit off this site and post the readings and ask for help.
Ok here is Plan B.
Since all my planning over the years has put me with High CYA levels and a pool that is building scale year after year.
I am saying to all the experts out there.
What should I do ? I give up !
I am willing to listen and follow a good plan .
If this helps here are my readings from my test kit today and I went to Leslie's pool supply for a test both were close in readings . Not sure if these tests are important if I need to get this water out of this pool, I did shock the pool 2 days ago because I had no chlorine readings at all when I went to put a new Pak in the frog system.
FAC-6.63
TAC-6.63
CH -280
CYA - Hi over 100
PH- 7.6
phosphates 2000
If need be I am willing to eliminate the FROG SYSTEM even know I have about $200.00 dollars worth of Paks I just bought. I hope there is a way in the plan I could use these paks. I am guessing that is why I have the CYA levels so high ? From using the Frog system ? Maybe its good to not use the Frog system system in the winter months ?
And only use it in the summer when you might need some CYA in the water ?
What ever the case as you can tell I need some direction.
And thats why I am here for help to get me back on track.
One more thought, Is it better to drain a fiberglass pool in the summer when its dry for less chance of it popping up because the ground levels are dry then in the winter ? My soil here in California is like clay hard and packed. Thats why i think there is less a chance of the pool popping out of the ground when the water lever is lowered or drained out of the pool. We don't have high water levels underground here in San Jose California it's a very hot dry climate in the valley.
Bottom line I need help and in easy steps so I can keep it simple for a guy who is stupid enough to try it himself and to cheap to pay a professional.
Thanks so much for reading.
Mark