Cloudy/muddy water problem.

jblizzle said:
How big is the pool? It is hard to say how much is too much acid not knowing the size. With FC > 10ppm (not sure what you are at if your test only goes to 5ppm) the pH will read artificially high. But, if the FC < 10ppm and the pH reads 8.2 ... that could mean it is ANYTHING > 8.2ppm. It may take a LOT of acid to get it down into range. That is your first step.

Also, are you SURE that the amount of FC that is added by the cal-hypo is actually cheaper than the 6% bleach? Give us the prices and quantities of each and we can tell you which will add the FC for the cheapest cost.

Oh yeah ... I too have to recommend investing in one of the recommended test kits so you can sure of your pool's chemical levels.
As stated before, it is a 15 ft by 4 ft round pool. my test does not have FC only TC. For one "shock" with bleach, it is about 5 USD. For 5 lbs of shock, it is 14 USD
 
The Pool Nerd said:
For one "shock" with bleach, it is about 5 USD. For 5 lbs of shock, it is 14 USD
Assuming 12.5% on the gallon of "shock" bleach (am I understanding you right?), it would take about $17 worth to add the same amount of chlorine the 5 lbs of cal-hypo adds (assuming it is 73%). However, you should be able to find a better price than $5/gallon of 12.5%. Around here I can get it for $2.50/gallon regularly.
 
But do you take you water up every day for testing? And do you live less than 2 minutes away from the pool store? The longer you wait from taking the water to going to the store, the less accurate the test gets.

What most people do when they take water to the store for testing is "reactive" testing. They only get tested when their water looks like bad. What we here at TFP strongly advocate is "proactive" testing that you - test chlorine and PH everyday - to make sure you pool is truly a trouble free pool. Proactive testing puts you in control of your pool instead of being at the mercy of the pool store.
 
linen said:
The Pool Nerd said:
For one "shock" with bleach, it is about 5 USD. For 5 lbs of shock, it is 14 USD
Assuming 12.5% on the gallon of "shock" bleach (am I understanding you right?), it would take about $17 worth to add the same amount of chlorine the 5 lbs of cal-hypo adds (assuming it is 73%). However, you should be able to find a better price than $5/gallon of 12.5%. Around here I can get it for $2.50/gallon regularly.
cal-hypo adds 45% and i just add 1 gal. of bleach every time i need to, but basically every five days.
 
WOW ... I was really slow typing this one.

Sorry I missed the pool size somewhere.

You are not using the term "shock" how we usually do, so I am a little confused.
Can you be more specific about the chemicals?
How large a jug of bleach is $5 (is it 6%)?
What is the 5lbs for $14, dichlor or cal-hypo? If cal-hypo what strength?

The problem that has been show on the forums repeatedly, is that the pool store tests are notoriously inaccurate and inconsistent. Sometimes showing huge changes day-to-day that are not chemically possible. SO, you end up buying products chasing numbers that are not correct. That is why we say it is cheaper to buy the test kit and KNOW the levels are accurate and repeatable ... then you know exactly what your pool needs and not what the store is trying to sell you.
 
Vette said:
But do you take you water up every day for testing? And do you live less than 2 minutes away from the pool store? The longer you wait from taking the water to going to the store, the less accurate the test gets.

What most people do when they take water to the store for testing is "reactive" testing. They only get tested when their water looks like bad. What we here at TFP strongly advocate is "proactive" testing that you - test chlorine and PH everyday - to make sure you pool is truly a trouble free pool. Proactive testing puts you in control of your pool instead of being at the mercy of the pool store.
You could call it beginners luck, but last year, every time i took some water (about every two weeks) i had perfect water, every time, all the time. I also had perfect water this year as well, until after i got back. the ph was at its usual high place, (I add 3 cups of acid a week) same with alk, no algae, crystal clear. don't know how i suddenly got algae though.
 
jblizzle said:
WOW ... I was really slow typing this one.

Sorry I missed the pool size somewhere.

You are not using the term "shock" how we usually do, so I am a little confused.
Can you be more specific about the chemicals?
How large a jug of bleach is $5 (is it 6%)?
What is the 5lbs for $14, dichlor or cal-hypo? If cal-hypo what strength?

The problem that has been show on the forums repeatedly, is that the pool store tests are notoriously inaccurate and inconsistent. Sometimes showing huge changes day-to-day that are not chemically possible. SO, you end up buying products chasing numbers that are not correct. That is why we say it is cheaper to buy the test kit and KNOW the levels are accurate and repeatable ... then you know exactly what your pool needs and not what the store is trying to sell you.
As said, again, 45% chlorine cal hypo 1.5 gal of 6% bleach. And, what chemicals do they send me after? as said earlier, i only use acid, stabilizer (in the beginning of the season), and "shock 'n swim" swimming pool shock. and i shock the pool with that. other then that, i use a tablet time to time, and nothing more. plus, the guy who tests my water doesn't tell me to buy anything, just gives my the test results. He knows i use the BBB method, and has nothing wrong with that. He also knows i don't buy chemicals that are not needed.
 
Well 5lbs of 48% cal-hypo adds 62ppm of FC to your pool for $14
To get FC of 62ppm using 6% bleach requires 591oz ... If the bottles you are buying are 182oz bottle that is 3.25 bottles so $16.23

So, the cal-hypo does seem to be slightly cheaper at the expense of adding all the calcium, which may be your clouding problem. BTW, $5 is a pretty high price ... no Walmart nearby?

Anyway, please post up a full set of the test results from the pool store so we can see if the calcium may really be the problem. Or see if you can get results for total hardness from your kit.

Getting the pH in range should still be a priority.
 

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If you only add the correct amount of liquid chlorine daily, (to maintain recommended FC amounts) instead of weekly, a gallon should last you more than a week. (My pool is 18' x 4' and that's what I have been doing for the past few months, with good results.)
 
jblizzle said:
Well 5lbs of 48% cal-hypo adds 62ppm of FC to your pool for $14
To get FC of 62ppm using 6% bleach requires 591oz ... If the bottles you are buying are 182oz bottle that is 3.25 bottles so $16.23

So, the cal-hypo does seem to be slightly cheaper at the expense of adding all the calcium, which may be your clouding problem. BTW, $5 is a pretty high price ... no Walmart nearby?

Anyway, please post up a full set of the test results from the pool store so we can see if the calcium may really be the problem. Or see if you can get results for total hardness from your kit.

Getting the pH in range should still be a priority.
i DO buy it from Walmart, also the place i got my test kit. I will have the results in a while though, it is about a half hour drive, and we only go once a week. And we went yesterday. So, if i can go sooner, i will have the answer. Isn't there something i can do to start removing it? we know it is high, especially if i have calcium residue on everything. And, because it turned yellow, can't i keep adding the hardness titrant until it turns red, then blue?
 
PAGirl said:
If you only add the correct amount of liquid chlorine daily, (to maintain recommended FC amounts) instead of weekly, a gallon should last you more than a week. (My pool is 18' x 4' and that's what I have been doing for the past few months, with good results.)
Is it possible to buy a kit, that only has FC? or has FC and the other few that my test kit doesn't have? Or, maybe test strip,only for that (FC) and yes, i know, test strip is A BAD IDEA....
 
Only way to lower CH is through replacement of the water ... what is your fill water like?

Really with your size pool, a drain and refill should not cost too much, but it is unclear how much you should replace. There are some people here that have REALLY high CH without your problem ... because they keep tight control on the TA and pH.

So, replacing the water may only be a temporary solution if all the chemical levels are not kept in the recommended ranges.
 
The Pool Nerd said:
PAGirl said:
If you only add the correct amount of liquid chlorine daily, (to maintain recommended FC amounts) instead of weekly, a gallon should last you more than a week. (My pool is 18' x 4' and that's what I have been doing for the past few months, with good results.)
Is it possible to buy a kit, that only has FC? or has FC and the other few that my test kit doesn't have? Or, maybe test strip,only for that (FC) and yes, i know, test strip is A BAD IDEA....

Sure is. check out tftestkits.net ... they have the separate tests for sale including the FAS-DPD chlorine test.
 
jblizzle said:
The Pool Nerd said:
PAGirl said:
If you only add the correct amount of liquid chlorine daily, (to maintain recommended FC amounts) instead of weekly, a gallon should last you more than a week. (My pool is 18' x 4' and that's what I have been doing for the past few months, with good results.)
Is it possible to buy a kit, that only has FC? or has FC and the other few that my test kit doesn't have? Or, maybe test strip,only for that (FC) and yes, i know, test strip is A BAD IDEA....

Sure is. check out tftestkits.net ... they have the separate tests for sale including the FAS-DPD chlorine test.
wait, does that mean i could just go to my local pool store and just buy it from there? (the chemical/dropper thing.)
 
You could try, but there is a VERY low success rate of finding the FAS-DPD test locally. Either the pool store does not know what it is or they think you meant the DPD test or they think you are crazy for wanting it because after all they test for free.
 

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