I have the tf100. I struggle to read to ph colors. Is there a drop base like the fc test. Where I count the drops?
a better ph test
- Thread starter zeroturn
- Start date
No. Within reasonable price ranges, the phenol red pH test is as good as it gets. You'll get better with practice.
- Aug 14, 2011
- 61
Aloha Zeroturn! 
Here's what you need to know...the key to easy interpretation of the pH color test is to get the proper ratio of test sample to drops (the directions don't always help you to reach this ratio). The COLOR (frequency--going from a neutral yellow-orange up to a bright magenta) of the sample is dependent upon the pH--the color will not vary if you add more or less water to it--only the SATURATION of that color will change. If your test sample is DARKER than the plastic comparator colors, simply add some water to your sample and see how much easier it is to find the right match. If your sample is too LIGHT, add one drop of the Phenol Red and see if it gets easier to compare.
As Dave said, time and experience will help you to figure this out...but it becomes really easy once you learn to get the right amount of drops. I often use a small sample (the amount doesn't really matter that much) and only one or two drops to get the right ratio. And I really don't even need the comparator any more...I can look from across the pool and tell if it is 7.4 or 7.6, as long as the SATURATION of the color is properly reached.
Hope this helps!
Aloha!
Here's what you need to know...the key to easy interpretation of the pH color test is to get the proper ratio of test sample to drops (the directions don't always help you to reach this ratio). The COLOR (frequency--going from a neutral yellow-orange up to a bright magenta) of the sample is dependent upon the pH--the color will not vary if you add more or less water to it--only the SATURATION of that color will change. If your test sample is DARKER than the plastic comparator colors, simply add some water to your sample and see how much easier it is to find the right match. If your sample is too LIGHT, add one drop of the Phenol Red and see if it gets easier to compare.
As Dave said, time and experience will help you to figure this out...but it becomes really easy once you learn to get the right amount of drops. I often use a small sample (the amount doesn't really matter that much) and only one or two drops to get the right ratio. And I really don't even need the comparator any more...I can look from across the pool and tell if it is 7.4 or 7.6, as long as the SATURATION of the color is properly reached.
Hope this helps!
Aloha!
BigIslandPoolService said:Aloha Zeroturn!
Here's what you need to know...the key to easy interpretation of the pH color test is to get the proper ratio of test sample to drops (the directions don't always help you to reach this ratio). The COLOR (frequency--going from a neutral yellow-orange up to a bright magenta) of the sample is dependent upon the pH--the color will not vary if you add more or less water to it--only the SATURATION of that color will change. If your test sample is DARKER than the plastic comparator colors, simply add some water to your sample and see how much easier it is to find the right match. If your sample is too LIGHT, add one drop of the Phenol Red and see if it gets easier to compare.
As Dave said, time and experience will help you to figure this out...but it becomes really easy once you learn to get the right amount of drops. I often use a small sample (the amount doesn't really matter that much) and only one or two drops to get the right ratio. And I really don't even need the comparator any more...I can look from across the pool and tell if it is 7.4 or 7.6, as long as the SATURATION of the color is properly reached.
Hope this helps!
Aloha!
I would love to see a bunch of pictures showing the different saturation levels for different pH levels. Could be very informative.
So do you guys not even use the vial that comes with the an OTO test?
I have two different OTO tests (in addition to my TF Kit). I noticed if I use the HTH brand I can easily read the colors unless they are in between.
Then I have another where you have to add chlorine neutralizer and that I have more problems using. It always reads higher or I am not sure what it is reading.
The tip about saturation though is helpful!
I have two different OTO tests (in addition to my TF Kit). I noticed if I use the HTH brand I can easily read the colors unless they are in between.
Then I have another where you have to add chlorine neutralizer and that I have more problems using. It always reads higher or I am not sure what it is reading.
The tip about saturation though is helpful!
Instead of adding more water, just use fewer drops if the saturation is too dark relative to the comparator. That's what I do. Usually 3 or 4 drops matches better than 5 for the R-0004 used in the Taylor K-2006 which is what I most commonly use for the pH test (I use a mix of K-2006 and TF-100 tests, mostly for historical reasons).
One more note people seem to obsess too much on exact pH number when the acceptable range is fairly wide, so you really don't need to know if your pH is 7.4 or 7.5, just that it is around there somewhere.
The Taylor block and Phenol Red (can't remember R number) in full strength reads much better for me. What's nice about having both, is the OTO from the HTH kit has values that aren't on the Taylor block. If I'm in doubt, I go to the OTO. But I do prefer the Taylor block, I feel that the colors are more saturated using Taylor Phenol Red. I have an old block, from a Mastertech (or something - no longer in business) kit . It's probably an old Taylor DPD block (has chlorine) actually. That has an even wider range of pH than the current style Taylor block (no chlorine).
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