Still having the extreme high chlorine. Only today have begun the Chlorine Drop Test per directions in my TF100 kit. In the simple test that also comes with it, the pool water is still dark orange. I have now put 140 ! drops of R-871 in the water (after 1st adding the R-870 powder) and I still have water that is so cloudy you can not see through it although is not pink. I assumed that "clear" means just that and you could see through it. Should I continue to add drops of the R-871 ?
Correcting High Chlorine & Low PH
- Thread starter tejas_me
- Start date
Review this:
extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html#p206393
Does the water turn pink when you add the powder? You may not be putting in enough powder to start.
extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html#p206393
Does the water turn pink when you add the powder? You may not be putting in enough powder to start.
Oh yes, the water turned very pink - I put in the heaping scoop as directed, it could not have held anymore.
Only 1 scoop and the water is pink? Odd as the instructions indicate the possible need to use more powder at high FC levels.
How fast are you adding the drops?
Something seems weird as I never see the water as cloudy ... it is completely clear.
How fast are you adding the drops?
Something seems weird as I never see the water as cloudy ... it is completely clear.
Something has seemed VERY odd about this whole chlorine mess since I first discovered it :-\ and that was back on the 19th - the simple chlorine test turned Red Orange and since then has Only gone down to Very Orange! It definitely should have dissipated by now, being circulated 12 hours each night and no chlorine going in. I was hoping some of these other tests would show me something else out of whack that could be causing this problem :-\ With other things going on, I have not been able to just stay at the testing. We had someone from our water co. come test the tap water with his high dollar kit and it shows 2.86. but when I ran the simple chlorine test on the same water it turns Orange!
You keep adding drops of R-0871 as long as the sample is pink. It doesn't need to turn clear, just to stop being pink. Cloudiness doesn't matter, only the color. You want to add drops until the pink is completely gone.
I am so glad y'all can try to help - don't know where else to turn. Never have hired anyone to take care of our pool. OH My! Well I think that I will start over. I thought when it said clear that should really mean clear that you could see through :-\ The pink was gone somewhere around 20 drops.
What does the cloudiness mean?
What does the cloudiness mean?
Oops - typo there - should have been around 50. Anyway - rinsed the vial well with pool water and did the test again and there was NO pink left at 51 drops which calculates to 25.5 ppm if I understand correctly. WOW! Will have to continue with other tests in the morning - on a fresh sample of course.
This morning I ran tests on our pool water which now show the chlorine at 24.5 Total Alkalinity - it went yellow at about 40 drops and by 100 drops it remained yellow (it Did turn green initially even with the high chlorine) - went no further with that. Calcium Hardness - water went pink after adding the R-0011 - turned lavender at about 18 drops and at 50 was still lavender - went no further. Rinsed well and did it as though my pool water contained copper (although pool frog has been empty for 3 - 4 mos) and got the same results so went no farther. CYA - the black dot disappeared when the level was 1/2 in. BELOW the 100 mark !
What to do now? Should I do the Tot. Alk. and Cal. Hard. tests again and continue with the drops until it does turn - or is it likely that it will never turn until something is corrected?
Thank y'all So Much for helping me with all of this!
Our pool is 22k Vinyl (25 guage w/gorilla-type mat) set 2/3 into the ground - 18 x 33 w/a deep end - Hayward 1 & 1/2 hp Power-Flo Matrix pump - Tagelus TA40D Sand Filter - Hayward AquaBug Pool Cleaner.
What to do now? Should I do the Tot. Alk. and Cal. Hard. tests again and continue with the drops until it does turn - or is it likely that it will never turn until something is corrected?
Thank y'all So Much for helping me with all of this!
Our pool is 22k Vinyl (25 guage w/gorilla-type mat) set 2/3 into the ground - 18 x 33 w/a deep end - Hayward 1 & 1/2 hp Power-Flo Matrix pump - Tagelus TA40D Sand Filter - Hayward AquaBug Pool Cleaner.
aa62579
0
If you are confident with your CYA test being over 100, I think you first order of business is to drain some of that water. Some people have talked about putting a large tarp over the pool and adding freshwater to it while draining the water underneath it. Since you have a vinyl liner, this might be a better approach. Other option would be multiple drains, maybe a foot at a time. With a CYA of over 100, your shock value is extremely high, around 40. So, with what results you have shared, you have not been hitting that number.
aa62579 said:
Yup. You may want to do the CYA test with a 50/50 mix of pool and tap water ... then double the result to find out just how far over 100ppm you are. Getting the CYA in the correct range is step #1.
Okay - so I am once again dumping pool water :-\ Certainly agree with what is said in the BBB for beginners article about problems being due to poor pool maintenance. My pool chemistry was not checked for 3 - 4 months :-\ It is hard to believe anything is wrong because the pool water looks beautifully bright and clear !
Just realize that with the high CYA ... odds are that you pool will not be bright and clear in a few weeks and you might be dealing with a green pool.
Getting everything balanced now and maintaining the FC levels ensures a clear pool all summer.
Getting everything balanced now and maintaining the FC levels ensures a clear pool all summer.
Got it 
I am working on getting the chems back in balance, beginning with the CYA, and although I want to go the BBB route - not sure I want to just throw away pucks I still have :-\ Is it going to hurt anything to have the Pool Frog inline if I do not put anything in it ? Same for the Chlorine dispenser (once I finish with the pucks IF I decide to finish them) ?
I am working on getting the chems back in balance, beginning with the CYA, and although I want to go the BBB route - not sure I want to just throw away pucks I still have :-\ Is it going to hurt anything to have the Pool Frog inline if I do not put anything in it ? Same for the Chlorine dispenser (once I finish with the pucks IF I decide to finish them) ?
aa62579
0
The pucks are just going to keep raising up your CYA. Not sure what kind they are, but with a 22,000 gallon pool, every lb of tri-chlor pucks will raise your CYA by 3 according to the pool calculator. Keep them dry and stored someplace safe and you may can use them later on in the year to bump up CYA lost to splash out or next year depending on what your CYA is when you open your pool.
Just leave them (Frog & chlorinator) empty and you will be fine.
You can always save the pucks to use on a temporary basis if you happen to go on vacation for a week for example. They will store for a LONG time if kept dry.
You can always save the pucks to use on a temporary basis if you happen to go on vacation for a week for example. They will store for a LONG time if kept dry.
Having dumped pool water down to just below the intake cutout this past Fri. and then refilled our pool - and and allowed it to circulate 12 hrs each night - testing today shows my CYA has not gone down.
Question - can that CYA build up in the sand filter over time?
Question - I read where some one else said CYA has a specific gravity of 2.5 and water has a specific gravity of 1. So they were going to try turning off their filter for about 3 days which should allow the chemicals to seperate and the CYA to settle to the bottom which would then be the time to remove water from the bottom thereby getting the CYA down faster. Found no more posts on his results. Ever heard of this? I would be concerned about other things 'growing' if the filter is left of that long :-/
Question - can that CYA build up in the sand filter over time?
Question - I read where some one else said CYA has a specific gravity of 2.5 and water has a specific gravity of 1. So they were going to try turning off their filter for about 3 days which should allow the chemicals to seperate and the CYA to settle to the bottom which would then be the time to remove water from the bottom thereby getting the CYA down faster. Found no more posts on his results. Ever heard of this? I would be concerned about other things 'growing' if the filter is left of that long :-/
aa62579
0
Did you ever dilute the sample to figure out how high your CYA really was? The test does not go over 100. It may take multiple partial drains to get it down to a manageable level. For example, if your CYA was 200, you would drain half to get it down to 100, then you would fill, mix, and drain half again to get down to 50. If you could only drain 25% at a time, drain 1 gets you to 150, drain 2 gets you around 115, drain 3 gets you around 80, drain 4 gets you around 60, and drain 5 gets you around 45.
Does not sound like you ever did the 50/50 dilution CYA test to find out how high over 100 your CYA really was. Obviously you must still be over 100 and I would again recommend diluting the pool water with 50% tap water and re-doing the CYA test.