Ok, got my TF100 kit and I attempted a full range of tests tonight, results or what I think are the results are below with notes\comments next to results and with the exception of using 25mL for the FC FAS-DPD test, I used the standard sample amounts, not increasing\decreasing the mL sample:
FC 7.4 (Used a 25mL sample due and I am pretty sure I counted 37 drops before the red\pink was completely gone and it was clear)
TC 7.4
CC 0.0 (I put 5 drops in and no color change whatsoever)
PH 7.5 (closest shade that looked like sample, it was a good amount easier than I thought it was gonna be)
ALK 80 (Used the standard 25mL sample and counted 8 drops until the liquid changed and stayed the new color)
CH 100 (Used the standard 25mL sample and counted 10 drops until the liquid changed and stayed the new color)
CYA 60 (Held it around waist and kept adding until I couldn't see the black dot at all. Went really slow when I could still barely make the dot out)
Ok, now I know these results look a good amount different than my last results so I am thinking\hoping that the ColorQ wasn't as accurate as well, what I noticed today is that I did 2 FC tests, one with 1 part distilled and 1 part pool water and also did just a normal test to see if the amounts were the same and they actually weren't. When I diluted it and multiplied by 2 my FC was 11.64 and TC was 12 but when I DIDN'T dilute, my FC was 8.29 and my TC was 9.07 which concerned me since the CC then would be .78 however by looking at tonight's results 7.4, I think the latter (8.29) was probably close to what it was. So I was worried I needed to shock again but after doing tonight's test, I added the 5 drops to the clear liquid after my FC test and no color change was present so I take that to mean my CC was actually zero.
The other results I believe I did right and counted the exact number of drops, which is a little relief since the ALK and CYA are higher than what the ColorQ test was saying it was. I also think I matched the correct shade for the pH but I am also assuming that if a number\color doesn't exist on the test kit that the color that does match is the one to use, so say my reading matches the 7.5 but my reading is really 7.6 but since there isn't a shade for that then 7.5 is good enough?
Also I did vacuum out the dead algae and had to add maybe 6 inches or so of water as I vacuumed out a good bit as well as I backwashed too.
Ok, now here are the questions for tonight, I promise they will start tailoring off as I can't think of much else...for now
When I am adding the drops for all the tests, except pH and CYA, does it matter how fast I go as I read in the notes about high FC and it says to add 1 drop per second. I am sure as I do this more it will become 2nd nature but when I am starting out I want to make sure I do each drop consistently and accurately but didn't know if by doing this, it might produce false results or add more drops in order to turn the sample either clear or change color. Also since my fun little magnetic stirrer has the 1 minute timer, I feel like I am in a race and that if it stops stirring or shuts off that the time I have to turn it back on and then drop more might mess up the results. Sorry I know I have OCD but just didn't know if speed really affects it this much.
For the CYA test, yes I read the notes about this being tricky, but when I am looking at the black dot, does it need to be completely gone to where I can't make it out at all or is it just where I can not see it at a quick glance?
When doing the last part of the drops for the tests where it either changes clear or turns the sample a different color, do I continue to add drops until the color change is permanent? I read the part about fading out but I just have the impression I need to add the drops quickly and I don't want to lose count or add extra drops and not know how many extras I added after the color change, or because I was slow that the color change occurs and changes back, hope that makes sense?
When doing these tests, since it is not providing EXACT amounts (in non-increments), what I mean by that is for the FC it will either end in .50 or .20 and the same for CC, so can I take that as it's close enough? When I did my FC test I was near the end and thought it was all clear but saw some pink so added 1 but I think 3 drops came out so didn't know if the 2nd one or 3rd one changed it or if the 3rd one was just an extra. Same with the pH, I notice the only available listings are in different increments vs. getting 7.1, 7.2, etc. I guess what I am concerned with is say I am off by a few drops, that adds up pretty quick, especially in things like ALK and FC so just wasn't sure if off by these amounts is really critical and keep in mind I am coming off of using that digital ColorQ so the totals I got with that might have been inaccurate but they were displayed as exact amounts vs. in increments. I just would hate to think my FC is say 6.5 when it really is 4.5 or below my range based on CYA and I don't add Cl when I should and then all of a sudden Algae shows up but didn't know if that's what the CC reading is for.
I would do a comparison test with the 2 kits but fortunately I was able to sell it
so just using my TF100 now.
Well I "think" that's all my questions\concerns for now and if I did the tests right, it looks like I am actually ok or within the ranges that I need to be in, my FC range with a CYA of 60 is 5 to 9, so 7.4 is ok I assume? I also assume I would just need to bump the FC back up to 9 when I start getting in the low part of this range or if I do actually get a result from the CC test.
Thanks again everyone for the help and I will take a pic soon so you can see, it should be looking good tomorrow, as long as we don't have anymore rain.
