When will plaster dust go away?

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ping said:
The quickest way to resolve the dust in the pool at this time is to gently use a manual vacuum. It wont take too long to vacuum and just be sure to vacuum the entire surface of the pool.

I believe you are seeing dust that just will not make it to the drains and just settles after each brushing. Use the manual vacuum then brush and most likely you will not see much dust at all.
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Thanks a lot Ping,
I think you are right. The only thing is that I don't have a manual vacuum. Are there any you recommend out there that are affordable, yet effective? I even asked the pool store if there was some sort of net fine enough to pick up the dust, but no luck there.
 
shcuck said:
ping said:
Thanks a lot Ping,
I think you are right. The only thing is that I don't have a manual vacuum. Are there any you recommend out there that are affordable, yet effective? I even asked the pool store if there was some sort of net fine enough to pick up the dust, but no luck there.
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Look at this link, http://www.lesliespool.com/Home/Cleanin ... cuums.html. This is just an idea for the type of vacuum. Just attach a pole and vacuum line to the manual vacuum head and run the vacuum line to your dedicated vacuum return if you have one or plug it into your skimmer.
 
Well I am very excited to say the Dust is GONE!!! whoohooo... Ping, thanks for the advise. I borrowed a manual brush vac from a buddy and after a few brushes, the dust is gone. I think you were right. I was prob the left over dust that I have been pushing back and forth for the past couple weeks.

Today I started heating the pool. Looks like it heats at a rate of 3 degrees F per hour, and the cost (if my calc is correct :) ) should be about $1 per degree or $3 per hour of running the heater.

Tomorrow I will add the salt. Any suggestions on that? or is it just a matter of dumping it in?
 
When I added mine, my PB told me to add it to my baja shelf and to brush it around to dissolve it. It is a lot easier to brush when the water is only a foot deep than trying to brush it in the deep end.
 
Well the salt is in.... Laid 6 bags flat along the side and just slit them open with a knife. Brushed it around so that it does not all settle in one location... I guess now we see... I will check the salt tonight or tomorrow morning and keep adding as necessary.

Anyone know of a good tutorial on how to use the Pentair SWG? The PB gave me the 2 min summary 30 days ago at start up but not sure I remember it all. He set it up to be at 50% chlorination. Is that a good starting point? I guess if I see my TC levels go up, I should reduce that down to maybe 30-40%? Also how about shocking the pool? He said it was good Idea to turn on the Super Chlorination process for a few hours once a week or after a big swim session. Do you guys do that with yours or do you use chemical shock instead of using the SWG for shocking?

Sorry for all the questions, but a complete noobie when it comes to pool ownership :)
 
shcuck said:
Well the salt is in.... Laid 6 bags flat along the side and just slit them open with a knife. Brushed it around so that it does not all settle in one location... I guess now we see... I will check the salt tonight or tomorrow morning and keep adding as necessary.

Anyone know of a good tutorial on how to use the Pentair SWG? The PB gave me the 2 min summary 30 days ago at start up but not sure I remember it all. He set it up to be at 50% chlorination. Is that a good starting point? I guess if I see my TC levels go up, I should reduce that down to maybe 30-40%?

Also how about shocking the pool? He said it was good Idea to turn on the Super Chlorination process for a few hours once a week or after a big swim session. Do you guys do that with yours or do you use chemical shock instead of using the SWG for shocking?

Sorry for all the questions, but a complete noobie when it comes to pool ownership :)
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I have a jandy unit but the basics of running SWG's are the same. Mine was turned on but was left at 0% output until the salt level measured at the correct amount. At that time I turned my percentage to 50% and adjusted from there. With cooler weather happening your output % might need adjusting as the water cools down.

Do not rely on the salt reading on the meter. When problems start to happen, most likely the cell is failing or the sensors fail, the salt readings might be wrong on the meter. I suggest using salt test strips once a month to stay on top of your salt level.

The SWG is not really meant for shocking a pool. It puts out a small amount of chlorine daily, even at 100% output, that's why I don't recommend to use it for shocking a pool. I always use bleach to raise my FC when I need a boost. To shock a pool you need to hit it hard and the SWG just can't do that. My wife and I have large families so we tend to have large swim parties frequently. I just raise the FC up a bit to the high end of my FC/CYA relationship with bleach the morning of the party and if the water is cloudy afterwards, I dump in a 182oz. jug of bleach for my 16K gallon pool. I didn't have any problems with algae all summer with water temps 86-92 degrees. Just make sure you follow the FC/CYA relationship found in Pool School and you should have very few if any problems with algae. Also, make sure you can use the Pool Calculator found in Pool School to help with with the proper amounts of chemicals to add to your pool.

Read everything in Pool School and you'll be well informed about how to manage your pool. A good test kit will be one of the best investments you'll ever make in your pool care. Read the test kits compared in Pool School and go from there. I have the TF-100 with the speed stir which makes testing that much easier and faster.
 
Thanks Ping, I will start going through the Pool School info in more detail. Regarding the test Kit, I already got the TF-100 with speed stir.. It does make a lot of difference especially when testing for the CH and TA.

Regarding the shock process. you mentioned bleach,... Are you doing the BBB method? if so, how is that working out? When I asked my PB if he had heard about the BBB method, he looked at me funny and in short told me to stick to the traditional chemical process, and not to experiment....

My only concern is with the warranty. if I use the BBB method, and anything happens to my pool, would they blame the use of any of the BBB elements on that and void the warranty? Not sure if this is even a valid scenario, but just asking :)
 
shcuck said:
Thanks Ping, I will start going through the Pool School info in more detail. Regarding the test Kit, I already got the TF-100 with speed stir.. It does make a lot of difference especially when testing for the CH and TA.

Regarding the shock process. you mentioned bleach,... Are you doing the BBB method? if so, how is that working out? When I asked my PB if he had heard about the BBB method, he looked at me funny and in short told me to stick to the traditional chemical process, and not to experiment....

My only concern is with the warranty. if I use the BBB method, and anything happens to my pool, would they blame the use of any of the BBB elements on that and void the warranty? Not sure if this is even a valid scenario, but just asking :)
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I'm following the advise on TFP on how to keep a pool in balance. For the 1st part of "B", bleach, I have my SWG generating my chlorine. You have the same with your SWG. I never added any chlorine in any other form than liquid except during the 1st month of building my pool when I used granular chlorine with CYA in it. "B" stands for bleach, but it really means liquid chlorine.

The 2nd part of "B", baking soda, is used to raise TA. I don't need to raise my TA and it has been stable at 90/100 for my first year. If you need to lower TA, muriatic acid is used to lower the PH and TA, then aeration is used to raise the PH back up. By repeating this cycle, your TA can be lowered without any other chemicals.


The 3rd part of "B", borax is used to raise PH. You will most likely be in the same situation as I am and that is you will have to lower your PH with muriatic acid.

I can't see how using any of these chemicals would void a warranty. Usually what voids a warranty is the water is out of balance and that causes problem xxx. Builders will say your water is not balanced and thus "you caused" the problems. By following the parameters here on TFP you are more than good with keeping your water balanced. Enjoy the pool!!!
 

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shcuck said:
Thanks for all the great info... one last question (for now) on this topic... :) So for shocking the pool, you use regular store bought bleach?
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That is all you need. Use a brand that has 6% and is non-scented. Myself, I have used the Target house brand UP and UP and Chlorox. If you want to use the pool store they usually sell liquid chlorine in either 10% or 12% strength. Having a jug of chlorox around is just easier than going to the pool store for chlorine. If you ever do need to shock your pool, make sure you reread about the shock process in pool school.
 
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