I guess my one thought now is can I do the shocking with a 5 hour window? or does this need to run all day and night? if all day then i would need to stop filtering my pool to isolate the two which I rather not do, I think in that case I may as well just mix the two and try to see if increasing my FC level a bit in pool will kill the algae as linen suggested. Also how long will this shocking take place on an avarage? I mean i would like to try and schedule a closing already so I am not sure if I can clear the algea in a day or two or is this something I need a couple of weeks for at least?
Possibly Algae?
- Thread starter RafaelS
- Start date
The length of time a shocking process takes can't be predicted. It certainly won't be done in 5 hours. The sooner you catch a bloom, the quicker the shocking process but it's going to be at LEAST 24-36 hours if not 3 days to a week or more for a bloom that has been existing for any length of time.
For example, I recently had a tiny itty bitty bloom that became apparent when the pool suddenly lost 100% of the chlorine before the day ended. Big red flag, this does not normally occur so I started watching the chlorine after dosing it back to high/target. It lost 2ppm in the dark so I began shocking, maintained for most the rest of the day till I ran out of chlorine for a few hours (let a kid swim since it was under shock level). Borrowed a bottle of bleach from the neighbor and resumed shocking, but by then the sun was off the pool and it had stopped losing chlorine anyway. Performed the OCLT that night and passed with .5ppm loss. Total time from beginning to shock till passing the OCLT, about 36 hours.
As you can see, even the smallest bloom takes time to clear properly. It also requires attention, regular testing, and regular additions of bleach after each test so that shock level is consistently maintained the entire time. Sunlight will consume some chlorine not related to shocking in any way, thus expect larger losses during the day.
You might want to brush up on pool school, and in particular the information about shocking and algae so you understand how and why maintaining shock level works (and why not maintaining doesn't).
For example, I recently had a tiny itty bitty bloom that became apparent when the pool suddenly lost 100% of the chlorine before the day ended. Big red flag, this does not normally occur so I started watching the chlorine after dosing it back to high/target. It lost 2ppm in the dark so I began shocking, maintained for most the rest of the day till I ran out of chlorine for a few hours (let a kid swim since it was under shock level). Borrowed a bottle of bleach from the neighbor and resumed shocking, but by then the sun was off the pool and it had stopped losing chlorine anyway. Performed the OCLT that night and passed with .5ppm loss. Total time from beginning to shock till passing the OCLT, about 36 hours.
As you can see, even the smallest bloom takes time to clear properly. It also requires attention, regular testing, and regular additions of bleach after each test so that shock level is consistently maintained the entire time. Sunlight will consume some chlorine not related to shocking in any way, thus expect larger losses during the day.
You might want to brush up on pool school, and in particular the information about shocking and algae so you understand how and why maintaining shock level works (and why not maintaining doesn't).
Thanks Frogabog! what my concern is though is a 5 hour window ok to work with during the week? Meaning if i run the system for 5 hours and shut down till next evening, is it the defeating the purpose of shocking if the algae just grows back during that period? or any amour of filtering will help if spread over the next few days. From what you are sayign I assume u ran ur filter constantly during that time, I can not really do that for the tub alone.
Yes, the algae is likely to grow back in 19 hours resulting in little or no net progress. You really need to keep the pump/filter running 24 hours a day and maintain the FC at shock as much of the time as you possibly can.
It sounds like this will require you to shock the pool, not just the tub, so more chlorine will be required than if you could do just the tub. But that shouldn't impede it from working.
It sounds like this will require you to shock the pool, not just the tub, so more chlorine will be required than if you could do just the tub. But that shouldn't impede it from working.
Thanks ! I finally got my test so tomorrow i will check my levels, what do you guys need to make any suggestions? FC and CYA will be enough for the shocking? Since you suggest to keep the filter running I guess I will wait till friday night so I can keep it going for the whole weekend.
Another thought, do you guys suggest using bleach for shocking? I have lots of shock that is left over from opening the pool in June, I bought a whole box and most of it is still in my shed. Should I use that or save it for opening next year and get bleach?
Another thought, do you guys suggest using bleach for shocking? I have lots of shock that is left over from opening the pool in June, I bought a whole box and most of it is still in my shed. Should I use that or save it for opening next year and get bleach?
Don't plan on anything except bleach until you post a full set of test results from your test kit.
Once we see the numbers and know what's in the 'shock' you have, we'll be able to tell you of you can use some of it.
Once we see the numbers and know what's in the 'shock' you have, we'll be able to tell you of you can use some of it.
FC: 17
CC: 0
RC: 17
pH: 7.8
TA: 90
CH: 230
CYA: 70
FC blew my mind a little, is this even possible without shocking? took water out of hot tub and my chlorinator is running 55% and consistently tested at 5 at the local shop last 3 times but last time couple weeks ago. CYA was hard and i kinda estimated, I could say its between 60-80 so I said 70. At what point do you consider not seeing the black dot, because if u try really hard and are in direct light I could probably find some shade of black till I get lower. Should I retest FC? took 35 drops
update. I checked with test strips and it does appear that FC is high, it must have rose just based on chlorinator operation? I did not add anything to the pool in probably 2 months to raise chlorine. I guess I really need to lower the chlorinator operation. Right now it runs at 55% and filter is on for 8 hours.
CC: 0
RC: 17
pH: 7.8
TA: 90
CH: 230
CYA: 70
FC blew my mind a little, is this even possible without shocking? took water out of hot tub and my chlorinator is running 55% and consistently tested at 5 at the local shop last 3 times but last time couple weeks ago. CYA was hard and i kinda estimated, I could say its between 60-80 so I said 70. At what point do you consider not seeing the black dot, because if u try really hard and are in direct light I could probably find some shade of black till I get lower. Should I retest FC? took 35 drops
update. I checked with test strips and it does appear that FC is high, it must have rose just based on chlorinator operation? I did not add anything to the pool in probably 2 months to raise chlorine. I guess I really need to lower the chlorinator operation. Right now it runs at 55% and filter is on for 8 hours.
Turn your swcg down a lot and let the FC come into range. Then adjust it to maintain the recommended FC. You can swim up to shock level for your CYA so that's not an issue.
Most pool stores FC tests will only test up to 5 ppm so anything above that gets written as 5 ppm.
On the CYA test, the black dot should be completely gone. You can pour the mixture back and forth several times to get a concensus on the number.
Most pool stores FC tests will only test up to 5 ppm so anything above that gets written as 5 ppm.
On the CYA test, the black dot should be completely gone. You can pour the mixture back and forth several times to get a concensus on the number.
The place I go to has a big lab machine for testing, they pour all the water into some container, everything gets printer from a computer, but I guess its possibly they only read to 5?
Any suggestions as to shocking my water to get rid of algae? How do I even check for FC drop overnight since its so high, I Really do not have the time to wait untill I adjust it, the people are comming to close the pool next week and I need to do this over the weekend in order to keep the filter running properly and alternate with pool.
Any suggestions as to shocking my water to get rid of algae? How do I even check for FC drop overnight since its so high, I Really do not have the time to wait untill I adjust it, the people are comming to close the pool next week and I need to do this over the weekend in order to keep the filter running properly and alternate with pool.
Those big machines are just to impress you. They're not nearly as accurate as your own test kit.
There's a link to the OCLT in my sig. Read that and then run it as soon as you can. It doesn't matter that the FC is high when you're using the FAS-DPD test.
There's a link to the OCLT in my sig. Read that and then run it as soon as you can. It doesn't matter that the FC is high when you're using the FAS-DPD test.
Bama,Bama Rambler said:
But wouldnt the fact that my FC is holding so high impede the result of the shocking kinda? the test means to check that FC chlorine doesnt drop over night but I assume thats when FC was at suggested level to start with? since my chlorine production is so high and i am not really sure what i should set it to at this point to keep it at 1-3ppm, wouldnt it always keep my FC no matter what? or it doesnt matter at all as as I am not losing FC overnight?
Make sure you turn the swcg off when performing the OCLT and the level of the FC doesn't matter. What you're looking for is a drop in FC overnight from whatever it tested at.
Having a high FC will actually help the shock process, if you actually have to shock.
Having a high FC will actually help the shock process, if you actually have to shock.
Alright so when I am shocking the pool I should turn off my SWG for the entire time the hot tub is being filtered without the pool? What do you mean by "if you actually have to shock" you mean i might not need to and how would I figure that out? I Though i need to shock to get rid of algae.Bama Rambler said:
ahhh I read it and I see what you mean, but wouldnt it make sense in my case to just shock, it is obvious I have algae in the basket water?Bama Rambler said:
Just an FYI - it took 4 days from when I started the shock process to clear my pool and pass the 3 tests - OCLT, CC below .5 and clear pool. I brushed twice a day, tested 2-3 times a day. Pay attention and follow the advice here, it works. My pool looks better than it ever has. 
Thanks sprocketSprocket said:Just an FYI - it took 4 days from when I started the shock process to clear my pool and pass the 3 tests - OCLT, CC below .5 and clear pool. I brushed twice a day, tested 2-3 times a day. Pay attention and follow the advice here, it works. My pool looks better than it ever has.
my pool looks great, its the basket by the blower motor for the hot tub thats green :/ I have not used it at all this summer and it finally got algae.
This is getting a little too confuzzled and complex. The easy way just got dumped into your lap. Shock everything, NOW.
I'd use the 17ppm FC as a good starting point for shocking the entire pool and spa together. That way all you have to add to get to shock level is 3ppm right now. Easy, and cheap. Turn off the SWG for now. The reason the FC is so high is because you increased the CYA, so now the SWG is more efficient. You'll find the right setting once you're done shocking.
Turn the spa on, and raise the entire pool to shock level and filter 24/7. Maintain it, and brush out that basket and the spa very well. Brush the pool too. I think that pool will handle the algae water from the spa just fine. You're so close to shock level right now, no reason to waste that extra chlorine and try to do the spa separately anymore.
I'd use the 17ppm FC as a good starting point for shocking the entire pool and spa together. That way all you have to add to get to shock level is 3ppm right now. Easy, and cheap. Turn off the SWG for now. The reason the FC is so high is because you increased the CYA, so now the SWG is more efficient. You'll find the right setting once you're done shocking.
Turn the spa on, and raise the entire pool to shock level and filter 24/7. Maintain it, and brush out that basket and the spa very well. Brush the pool too. I think that pool will handle the algae water from the spa just fine. You're so close to shock level right now, no reason to waste that extra chlorine and try to do the spa separately anymore.
Frog, what do you mean 3ppm, from what I see my shock level should be 28 which is 11ppm away, am I doing something wrong? I was getting ready to shock now but now you have me bumboozled, can anyone help? I would like to start the process but I will be heading out soon and not getting back till very late.... what i have is cal-hypo 57.8% which is not even on pool calculator but I assume I can just estimate in between the two above and below.
CYA at 70 right?
Shock is 20ppm for 70ppm CYA. What CYA level are you using with the calculator?
You should be able to adjust for your percentage of cal-hypo with the calculator. Use the medium value between 53% and 65% I suppose... (I hate math!)
Shock is 20ppm for 70ppm CYA. What CYA level are you using with the calculator?
You should be able to adjust for your percentage of cal-hypo with the calculator. Use the medium value between 53% and 65% I suppose... (I hate math!)
I was not using the pool calculator, I was using the link from this pagefrogabog said:
SWG Pools
CYA (Stabilizer) Minimum FC Target FC Shock FC
60 3 4 24
70 3 5 28
80 4 6 30
pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock