Overwhelmed Newbie with yellow water

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Hi Woodwoman :)
I would highly recommend using the Pool Calculator to figure out how much conditioner you need to add: http://www.poolcalculator.com/
Also, I'm not sure you're aware of it or not, but there is also a section of the forum dedicated to SWCG's and has some really helpful information: automatic-chlorinators-swg-liquidator-etc-f21.html You definitely need to raise your chlorine level and a SWCG won't be able to raise it enough so you'll need to add some liquid chlorine.
 
CYA could be accurate and as you know, you're loosing more chlorine per day than your SWG is producing with it that low. I would calculate and add CYA again AND verify pool volume (measure your actual water height) for dosages (verify volume, then add CYA). I suggest ordering the TFTestkits.net FAS-DPD kit and CYA kit to make your HTH kit usable for the rest of the season. HTH only has 2 CYA tests and no way to measure CC or shock levels, but the above two additions will make what you have work for the purpose intended.

Also note, a fluid ounce is not equal to a dry ounce. The measurements in the CYA cap are dry ounces, your kitchen measuring utensils are likely fluid ounce measurements. Convert/use the cap measurements if possible.
 
Thanks to you both for the suggestions.

I'm currently giving the SWG a vinegar bath-- hard water deposits build up on that plate FAST! I expect that will help with chlorine production. I'll keep a closer eye on it from now on. (Tip for other SWG newbies-- if you get a low salt alert, check/clean the electrode plate thingie before adding more salt.)

The Pool Calculator is quite handy, and I confirmed the pool volume & made extensive use of the PC prior to posting. Most likely I worded my questions poorly. Regarding the CYA addition, I wondered which number to use as my PC starting point-- the test result (below 30, probably 20-25) or err on the side of caution and use the level it should be (50ish) based on the amount of CYA already added. I've calculated it both ways, and will most likely go for a happy medium.

I already have a DPD test kit for FC & TC that tests to .5ppm accuracy. It should get me through the season. I'm definitely interested in the TF100 for next year. As to the CYA reagent, I read on another thread here that the Taylor reagent is compatible with the HTH kit. If this is the case, it appears more economical to just purchase a reagent refill.

Thanks for the reminder about liquid vs dry measurements... something I already know, but exactly the sort of thing that COULD have slipped my middle-aged mind.

And hey, frogabog, I'm really glad your cat came home. =^..^=
 
woodwoman said:
I already have a DPD test kit for FC & TC that tests to .5ppm accuracy. It should get me through the season. I'm definitely interested in the TF100 for next year. As to the CYA reagent, I read on another thread here that the Taylor reagent is compatible with the HTH kit. If this is the case, it appears more economical to just purchase a reagent refill.
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If you're going to order a CYA refill, you may as well add the FAS-DPD kit as well. With shipping to account for, getting both at one time will be cheapest.

What DPD test do you have that measures both FC and TC with .5ppm accuracy? The only one I'm aware of is the FAS-DPD powder test. All the others are color comparitor blocks, that usually do not test above 5ppm graduated by whole number (color) values only.


Thanks for the reminder about liquid vs dry measurements... something I already know, but exactly the sort of thing that COULD have slipped my middle-aged mind.
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LOL, a person who cooks knows this... but ya never know so I figured I'd mention it.

And hey, frogabog, I'm really glad your cat came home. =^..^=
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Thank you! We're being extra adoring to her now, figuring she lost 3 of her lives in those 4 days.

Your CYA issue is a little baffling, but if you use too low of a number you won't hit your targets when you add bleach. I'd say err on the side of caution and use the high number till you figure out what happened so you won't miss the boat. Even if it is 30ppm, maintaining 2ppm extra for high and low won't hurt your pool one bit.
 
Sorry for delayed reply; life is a bit hectic lately.

Frogabog: I currently use a DPD test from the Bioguard 1200V multitest kit, which employs the DPD #1 & DPD #3 tablets. It *is* a color block test that only goes up to 5 ppm, in gradients of 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 3.0, and 5.0. However, the color block shading is drastic enough to readily note an "in between" reading, especially the telltale darkening that indicates presence of CC. I find the purples much easier to differentiate than the yellows in the HTH OTO kit.

I didn't mean to imply that it's comparable in quality or range to the FAS-DPD powder test, only that this test is adequate for now, in that it provides FC & TC readings from which I can derive the presence & amount of CC.

Somewhat off topic, but related to water testing, the CDC (Centers for Disease Control) endorses the use of test strips to check pool water. Go figure. They're even linking to site that offers FREE test strips by mail, with an interactive map so you can enter your test results:

http://healthypools.org/freeteststrips/

Maybe some folks from here should participate, and improve those unhealthy pool statistics. :lol:
 
I prefer the red/purple comparing as well. Luckily you are employing the SWG which allows you to run under 5ppm so as long as that's working, your test should work for you. I used a similar DPD test all last season successfully but after getting FAS-DPD I now would not ever go back. I could only test if FC was <4-4.5ppm and TC less than 5ppm. It was a bit restrictive but I also had CYA at 30ppm while this year it's at 40ppm which means I rarely see less than 5ppm on a test.

I still wouldn't choose to use the color block even if it did have a full range to test with, the powder and r-0871 drops are really that much better and I'm really happy I decided to switch.
 
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