Make sure you get the FAS/DPD test kit (Taylor k-2006 or TF100 from TFTestkits). I would NOT rely on the "Leslie's" copy of the Taylor kit, they seem to like to sell the K-2005 and then refuse to take it back when you realize they sold you the wrong one.
Also, as previously mentioned, get stabilizer (CYA, can be found at walmart) into the pool right away, then add bleach immediately after you hang the CYA sock (tube sock w/stabilizer, rubber band the top and tie off in front of a return).
I'd shoot for 30-40ppm CYA for now unless you're in a very hot/sunny location and then you'll want to go for 40-60ppm CYA. Start low, you can always add more. CYA does not go away, so to lower it you will need to drain and refill.
The most important thing is to get some chlorine in the pool. If you can't get CYA today, use 0 in the now column in the calculator and set goals for trouble free pools. You'll need about 2ppm of chlorine w/0 CYA, buy bleach and pour some in in front of a return, slowly. (Or float the cup and just let the water displace the bleach underwater).
How many days has the new water been in the pool with no chemicals? It might be blooming algae again already, even if you cleaned the dry pool with bleach or especially if you didn't use bleach to clean the pool.
If you get the right kind of test, make sure to test for combined chlorine right off the bat. CC is the difference between total and free chlorine. It should be less than .5ppm. If it is higher than .5, you will want to shock your pool instead of just adding 2ppm.
In that case, please read pool school and especially the "how to shock your pool" section. It is important that you note that shocking is a process (verb), not a product even though it is commonly sold as a product (powdered shock).
In all that, we'd really love to see some pics. Some of us live vicariously through people with cool pools yano... :~}