Me and my wife watched all weekend and the pool didn't overflow (we were both a bit surprised). She said there was probably a hole somewhere to prevent flooding, and she's right. No backwashing needed.
Little bit of news. Apparently I didn't need to slam the pool as there is no green algae anywhere.
Question though on conversion. I did my taylor test and my FC was 120 ppm. Does that mean that my FC level is 120 ppm. My Combined Clorine was 10ppm. So how exactly do I tell what my FC is? Is it 1.2?, 1.1?
(basically I get a ppm, do I put a decimal point between the 100th and 10th spot, turning 120 ppm to 1.2 fc?)
Also decided to do some borate conditioning. Calculator said I needed 1480 oz of borax, decided to drop about 1000 oz into the pool, then hit it with muratic acid to drop the massive FC spike the borax causes.
Reason I only did 1000 is to both test and confirm the pool size. I'm sure its 30,000 but rather aim at 20,000 first and make sure (Math ain't my strongsuit). Added more chlorine as the chlorine was wiped out, and added a puck because the CYA is basically 10.
Little bit of news. Apparently I didn't need to slam the pool as there is no green algae anywhere.
Question though on conversion. I did my taylor test and my FC was 120 ppm. Does that mean that my FC level is 120 ppm. My Combined Clorine was 10ppm. So how exactly do I tell what my FC is? Is it 1.2?, 1.1?
(basically I get a ppm, do I put a decimal point between the 100th and 10th spot, turning 120 ppm to 1.2 fc?)
Also decided to do some borate conditioning. Calculator said I needed 1480 oz of borax, decided to drop about 1000 oz into the pool, then hit it with muratic acid to drop the massive FC spike the borax causes.
Reason I only did 1000 is to both test and confirm the pool size. I'm sure its 30,000 but rather aim at 20,000 first and make sure (Math ain't my strongsuit). Added more chlorine as the chlorine was wiped out, and added a puck because the CYA is basically 10.