Whisperflo cutting out randomly

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KCAZ

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Oct 27, 2008
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OK, I’m stumped. My 2004 Whisperflo 2.0hp filter pump motor just started cutting out randomly for less than a second at a time. System is controlled by a Jandy One-Touch RS8. It happens about every 30 seconds to 2 minutes. The motor and capacitor cover are NOT hot at all. I had this pool built in 2004 and nothing has changed. I’m estimating 20k hours on the pump/motor. Pressure runs 18-22 PSI through a Triton Commercial sand filter. Pool and spa has five 1.5” return lines and two pop-up heads near the main drain which assist the in-floor cleaner.

I just backwashed the system a few days ago. Good suction and flow from the returns. No weird sounds. No leaks.

Any ideas?

Motor or Jandy control issue?

Thanks in advance!
 
I may give Pentair a call and see if there is a known issue. I am on my third dimmer control for the light. They only seem to last 2-3 years and then they go wacky so maybe there is a similar motor controller part that can be replaced?

Also, let me clarify that the motor does not even completely stop rotating. It is like a momentary voltage drop if that makes any sense.

Thanks
 
not sure how to check it, without an ammeter on the electrical supply to the motor...
But as stated, anything internal to the motor would likely kill it completely- or would give the same symptoms regularly vice randomly
Has to be in controller...
Do you suffer from "brown outs"?
A drop in incoming power could cause the controller to quit, then pick up again... only an issue if your local electric supply is borderline sufficient for the neighborhood load conditions!
 
madwil said:
not sure how to check it, without an ammeter on the electrical supply to the motor...
But as stated, anything internal to the motor would likely kill it completely- or would give the same symptoms regularly vice randomly
Has to be in controller...
Do you suffer from "brown outs"?
A drop in incoming power could cause the controller to quit, then pick up again... only an issue if your local electric supply is borderline sufficient for the neighborhood load conditions!
Click to expand...

OK, thanks. No brown out issues here. Development was built in 2003-2004 and has quality electrical service. Plus, the spa jets and in-floor pumps are not cutting out so it is isolated to this motor.

Question: Do the motors have a load sensor that may cause this? I do know that my spa main drain is plugged with leaves (have not had time to take it apart and clean it out) but it has alternate safety intakes to prevent people from being stuck to the drains. Same goes for the pool main so if it were restricted it has a bypass intake. However, the extra load may be causing the pump to labor. The funny thing is though that the pump is not getting hot. Just warm from normal running.
 
guamguy said:
KCAZ said:
guamguy said:
It sounds like a weak relay in the control system
Click to expand...

How would I check/test that?
Click to expand...
I would see if there is another similarly rated relay that is unused in the controller and swap them (with power off to the whole system, of course).
Click to expand...

Yes, I was thinking that. The relays are also fairly cheap. I may just pick one up and keep it as a spare if it is not the issue.

Thanks for all the replys.
 

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BTW, after spending a little more time observing I noticed that it has a tendancy to cut out after a "cold" start up. That is, after sitting off for several hours. After the pump has run for about 30 minutes the problem seems to go away.
 
Boy, you gotta hate problems like this. To troubleshoot intermittant drop outs back in my industrial controls days, I used to rig up 'seal-in' circuits using some extra relays which, once energized, would keep themselves energized via a N.O. contact as long as the power stayed on. I used pushbuttons to start them, but jumpering with a meter lead will work for temporary tests. Light bulbs help too, if you're getting elaborate.

I'd attach them to points in a control circuit so that I could tell where the power dropped and where it stayed on. In this case, I'd attach to inbound power to the controller, and to the outbound power to the motor. After a drop-out, if both were off it'd mean that the main power went down. If just the motor side was off, then it's the controller shutting it off for some reason. If they're both still on, then it's a motor problem. Or a neutral/L2 problem, depending on the way it's wired.

The ASCII circuit looks like this in it's simplest form:
Code: 
L1            R                     R       L2
+------------] [-------------------( )------+

With a 'start' pushbutton:
Code: 
L1            PB                     R       L2
+------+------] [--------+----------( )------+
       |                 |
       |       R         |
       +------] [--------+
 
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