Another DIY Build

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Nice work, AB64. You DO have a lot of backfill. If you wanted to delay your decking, you could back fill in "lifts" of about 4-6 inches and mechanically compact each lift and then let the whole thing settle in for the summer or you could just bite the bullet and use rock.

I had quite a bit less so I used rock but it still cost me about $700 if I remember correctly.[attachment=0:1w6e7iut]tem_fillrock2.jpg[/attachment:1w6e7iut][attachment=1:1w6e7iut]tem-fillrock.jpg[/attachment:1w6e7iut]
 

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Thanks its been alot of fun work....why is using sand so bad? Every one I know used the dirt they pulled out. I would figure good clay free sand in lifts would be better. Rock would be outrageous and wife didn't want to wait all summer. I do have enough rock to put in a 6 inch layer in the middle of the sand or final lift below deck. Im in south alabama so freezing is not a problem if that matters.
 
When im running my rigid 2 inch pvc is it ok for them to cross over each other and touch or should I put a barrier I.E. sand between the pipes to keep them from touching. Or am I way overcomplicating things.....any takers to answer my previous post if all goes well I want to start backfilling on thurs or friday. Thanks.
 
37000+- gallons
Failed to post my equipment that I will be using open for suggestions.
Hayward Aqua plus control panel
4 jandy deck jets
turbo twister slide
2 colorlogic 4.0 lights
Goldline SWG
never lube valves all with actuators
2 inch pvc plumbing
2 HP super pump...open for a better suggestions 2 speed and what size

The whole project A-Z is done by myself and dad no intentions of hiring any of it out hence all the questions.
 
allybuck64 said:
When im running my rigid 2 inch pvc is it ok for them to cross over each other and touch or should I put a barrier I.E. sand between the pipes to keep them from touching. Or am I way overcomplicating things.....any takers to answer my previous post if all goes well I want to start backfilling on thurs or friday. Thanks.
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I'm not an expert but in some of the other build threads you definitely see pipes touching and crossing. I can't think of any major issues with side by side. But crossing over seems like it could be an issue but you probably can't always avoid it either? I'm sure one of the build experts will weigh in soon.
 
AB,

1. I'm sure it's fine for the pipes to touch although, in theory, I suppose there could be some vibrations from the flow that might cause a wear point. Just to be safe, I would probably avoid them touching.

2. Back to the backfill. Almost ANY back fill is quite acceptable as long as it is PERFECTLY compacted.

Aha! That word "perfectly" is the problem. Perfectly compacting red and gray clay here in NC is almost impossible. Additionally, high clay content, as you know, is expansive so, IMO, you could never count on a successful back fill using the soils in my area.

Sand is sand. It is very susceptible to channeling and shifting if any water gets to it. If you should get any channeling under the concrete....CRACK!

Rock is still the very best combination for compaction, drainage and stability.

So, you have to use your judgment and decide what is best for the existing soils and conditions you have. Some folks use pavers as a deck material and the success of the back fill becomes almost a moot point.

3. If that pump is a full rated 2hp, it is a little too big for your pool. Matching it with the proper filter is equally important but, if I were to build a pool like yours today, I would probably get a 1.5hp 2-speed or 1hp single speed and a filter rated to handle about 20-30% more gpm than you expect from the pump.
 
Match the filter to your pump. If your pump will normally produce say 80-90GPM (about right for that pool) then get a filter with a rated capacity of somewhat more than that...say 120GPM
 

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Bk406 I would guess and don't quote me on this but if the ground settles the pavers will adjust and can be alot easier to fix. Were a concrete slab would be a large area and then become a bridge with no dirt for it to rest on and would crack due to no underside support.
 
Just found out my work schedule is going to change so my time to build will be cut back. I hated to get a quote for pool bottom and liner install. I got a quote of 1800 for labor. Does that seem fair considering the size of the pool.
 
allybuck64 said:
Just found out my work schedule is going to change so my time to build will be cut back. I hated to get a quote for pool bottom and liner install. I got a quote of 1800 for labor. Does that seem fair considering the size of the pool.
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It would take the company I formerly worked for ~ 8 hrs to do a vermiculite bottom for your pool. This is with a 5 man 'pour' At least 2 of them would be paid >$20/ hr and the others would average $16/ hr. For $1800, it seems a very fair price :)
 
Have a question about building the Manifolds at the equipment pad. I have 2 Return lines, 1 Deck jet line, 1 Water slide line. 1 Main drain line and 2 Skimmer Lines. I want to be able to turn off/on deck jets, water slide and return lines independently. How should I plumb all this together with 3 way valves. I cant find any good diagram that shows how to put this together.
 

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