Test Kit Question

[bdurham]

I am in the process of determining the proper test kit for me and have a question that maybe someone here can help with.


I am looking for a test kit that can measure chlorine at shock levels. I purchased a DPD deluxe kit last year and found it only registered up to a 5. Yes i know i can mix with distilled water but to me that looses accuracy.

I have been debating between the taylor 2006c and the TF-100 XL.

Could anyone provide a picture of the test block these use and maybe a description of how the testing is done for seeing higher chlorine?

The reason I am asking these questions is that I am a fairly new pool owner. It was just purchased last year. The pool store was getting so expensive we stopped working on it for a month and it turned into a swamp. After spending over 200 in pool chemicals to still have a swamp I found the BBB method and had it sparkling again a week later and closed it for the winter. when i open it my wife informed me I can use whatever method i want but if it does not look as nice as it did when we first got it i have to go back to pool store chemicals which I do not want to do. Therefore I want to get the best kit I can with easy to read charts so that I don't mess it up.

Also what are the differences between an OTO and a DPD test ?

Thank you for your time and patience.

 

[Richard320]

The TF100 uses Taylor reagents; it's mostly just a difference in packaging and sizing. TF100 comes with a useful amount of CYA test reagent, for example. K2006 comes with acid & base demand tests, which could be handy, but won't tell you anything the pool calculator can't.

Some videos of the testing. Go to pool then chlorine using fas-dpd. You'll see that there really is no test block, you just watch for color change.

The OTO test uses yellow as the color to match. It will get darker and darker, off the scale, even, through orange and into brown if the chlorine is real high.

My vote is a TF100XL and a speedstir. It's what I use.

 

[Bama Rambler]

I'll second the TF-100XL and a speedstir! It has more useful amounts of the tests you use most and believe me, you'll appreciate the speedstir the first time you run the CH test.

Also, the FAS-DPD uses a color change drop test to determine the chlorine content. It changes from pink to clear which makes it very easy and accurate to use. No color matching and can test up to 50ppm FC and CC.

 

[chem geek]

Welcome to TFP!

Also see Test Kits Compared in the Pool School. I have both kits. You won't go wrong with either one, but the TF-100 XL is more economical per test (with more volume of reagents useful when measuring shock levels of chlorine). They both use the FAS-DPD chlorine test which is far more accurate. To keep your pool in good shape, read the Pool School so that you keep your Free Chlorine (FC) at an appropriate level compared to the Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level and also keep other water chemistry parameters in proper balance.

 

[Durk]

I have a Hybrid built from both (starting from a Taylor K-2000 many years ago). The TF- uses a larger CYA (2x) tube than the Taylor K-series. It makes for a more accurate and easier to do test. If you buy a Taylor, order the TF tube and mix bottle on the side, you won't be sorry. (The tube is made by Taylor, they just don't put it in the K-2006.)

On the Taylor side, I like the acid demand, as I have real trouble with choosing among the red colors above 7.4. The Pool Calculator can't help with that. I just add a drop, if I like the result, I know exactly how much acid to add to get there.

The rest is just packaging. The K-2006C is overkill and will give you way more of what you need on many items, unless you do the full spectrum every day (completely unnecessary.) The K-2006 will be good on everything except CYA, which is easily fixed. The TF does have the best starting mix of sizes.