TA test question

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I am actually pouring it in front of the jet that is sucking in!!! Oops, I will change that when I add the next batch! So, are you saying that I can pour the WHOLE 3 quart amount in at once? If so, that will make this muratic acid process so much easier than pour a quart, wait an hour, pour a quart, wait an hour and so on! I will get the muratic acid today for sure and definitely pour it in front of the jet that blows out! :)

I will post pH, TA, and chlorine results later this evening.

Thank you so much for your help, Dave. I'm sorry to be such a bother. I hope that I learn enough one day to be a help to someone else in my situation who is totally new to this!

Gina
 
Gina333 said:
I hope that I learn enough one day to be a help to someone else in my situation who is totally new to this!

Gina
Click to expand...

You will and it will be sooner than you think.

The reason you want to pour all chemicals in front of the return jet is to avoid your equipment getting a strong concentration of the chemicals. If you can turn the eyeball on the return (what the pool people call where the water shoots back into the pool) to the side and angled down it will help the water circulate and thus help mix the chemicals. Later when you start working on the TA you can turn the eyeball back up so that it aerates the pool.
 
Yes you can pour it in all at once in a steady stream no need to pour a quart and wait. As Larry said pouring it in front of a running return allows it to dilute very quickly and doesn't allow the possibility to harm anything. This is especially true with acid as it's the most agressive thing we add to our pools.
 
Great. Glad you got the PH down. Go ahead and retest the Chlorine and bring it back to shock level and brush the pool. You will want to do this every few hours until your water is clear or the overnight test shows a drop of .5 or less. You will also want to monitor the PH to be sure it does not get too high.
 
Yes go ahead and shock. The brushing just aids in circulating the chlorine and also helping the chlorine get to the algae. It has been said on this board that you can swim as long as the FC is at or below shock level.
 
Gina,

Please reasd the article in Pool School..."How to shock your Pool". You will find you have not shocked your pool but rather have STARTED to shock your pool. Bringing the FC up to shock value DOES NOT shock the pool. Following the procedure outlined in that article is a process, often taking several days, and that is shocking your pool.

Your pH results will be skewed towards a higher number in the presence of high chlorine so amke no further effort to adjust your pH until the process is complete. During the shock process, your focus should be on testing accurately and adding enough chlorine to get the FC back up to 12ppm constantly. How many times have you added FC since your initial dose yesterday AM.
 
I added more bleach last night to bring it up to shock level again. When reading that article, it said that the shock number is directly related to the CYA level. So, I looked at the chart that related to that and based on my CYA of 40, I used enough bleach to bring FC to 16. We had a big rain storm last night and more on the way today, so I am not sure how that will effect my pool water.

Gina
 

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Dave,

The water looks a bit better today. Has lots of leaves and such in the bottom and still has some of the green, but much less than it was. I tested again today and the numbers are as follows:

FC 15
CC 0
TC 15
pH 7.6 ? I was questioned on the color, but it wasn't quite up to 8
and here's the good part!!! TA - 170!!! Wow, I couldn't believe it.
CYA was interesting, though. It seemed to rise without us adding any more stabilizer. It's at almost 50. So, I'm not sure what's going on.

I am about to get in the water and clean the debris out. I really don't like the fact of getting in with such a high FC, what do you think? Also, how soon do I measure again to see if I need to add more bleach to keep it at the high level?

You've been great! I feel like I'm finally making some progress instead of just going along clueless!

Gina
 
The effective chlorine @ 20ppmFC/50ppm CYA is less than the effective chlorine @ 5ppm FC/0ppm CYA.

The forum generally advises that anything at or below shock level (per the FC/CYA relationship chart) is OK for swimming. I personally advocate that a much higher ppm is harmless enough but it's a good guideleine for us all to follow.

Get your pool bottom cleaned up from the leaves, etc. Stir things up, run the pump 24/7 and backwash/clean your filter as necessary.

CYA continues to rise on the test for a few days. Generally, we suggest not testing CYA for about a week after it was put in your pool.

KEEP YOUR FC AT 16ppm at least twice daily!! :lol: :lol:
 
OK, that I can do. It has been raining most of the day and I didn't get to clean the bottom of the pool. I am hoping for some time tomorrow if this rain lets up. I will test again tonight before going to bed and if the FC isn't up to 16, I will add more bleach.

So, do I just continue this routine until my overnight FC loss is 1.0 or less? Is that when I stop adding the bleach on a daily basis? And what is the ideal ppm to keep the pool water at on a normal basis. I was shooting for 4 ppm, is this correct?

Gina
 
Yes you keep shocking until the overnight FC loss is less than 1.0 and the CC is 0.5 or less. The range you want your Chlorine is 4-7 so I target 7 and then add when it gets to 4. On some of our HOT Texas days I will loose 3 ppm per day. You can continue to bring the FC to 16 twice a day, but I get impatient and so I will do that about every 3 hours. Pool School states you can do it hourly. The reason you want to keep it at 16 is so you are killing algae and not letting it reproduce. As I understand it a lower FC will kill algae, but you don't get ahead of it because it is reproducing. That is why you can have an FC of 7 and a green pool. So the longer you can keep it at 16 (shock level for your CYA level) the more you inhibit algae reproduction and hence the faster you clear the pool. So what I do is test, put results in Pool Calculator, add enough bleach to bring the level back to shock level. Then 2 or 3 hours later I repeat the process. After awhile it will only drop 1 or 2 points in between testing and I will lengthen the time in between tests. When I finally meet the overnight and CC conditions I will stop adding bleach and let it return to the normal level of 7. Some suggest actually continuing until you have two nights with the drop at or under 1.0 and the CC at or under 0.5 before they stop adding bleach.

You will get it clear faster if you get all the leaves out as they are burning up Chlorine.
 
Gina333 said:
So, do I just continue this routine until my overnight FC loss is 1.0 or less? Is that when I stop adding the bleach on a daily basis? And what is the ideal ppm to keep the pool water at on a normal basis.
Click to expand...
Chlorine is a consumable. Typically FC loss of 3-4ppm per day is expected. This means you should always add bleach on a daily basis.

Overnight FC loss is 1.0 or less means you can stop shocking, but you should continue adding chlorine daily to your target maintenance level based on your CYA.
 
I was unable to check chlorine levels last night before going to bed due to storms, but this morning the chlorine is 17.5 ppm. Due to our pool being new and not having the full decking around it yet, the only way for me to clean the leaves is to get IN the pool. I realize the leaves are eating the chlorine, but better the leaves than me!! :) My plan is to check it again in 3 or so hours and add bleach if it's below 16. If that is not the right thing to do, I'll check back on here before I do it and see if you've advised against it. Thanks again!!!

Gina

P.S. Oh! pH was approaching 7.8 this morning. Should I also add some acid?
 
YOu cannot stop the shock process until you get that bottom cleaned out. The sooner you do that, the sooner your chlorine demand will begin to diminish.

Are you watching the psi on your filter? Is it time to backwash/clean it?
 
To re-emphasize this point -

Anything over FC of 10 makes your pH test result unreliable. So you need to test FC first and if it's above 8 and your pH result is wacky I would suggest that it's not an accurate result.
 
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