Three points after reading these posts
Split off of this topic. JasonLion
First, should tenentwick not have added to tenentwick's 28,000 gallon pool for every 10 ppm of chlorine, 50 oz of Muriatic Acid or 5 oz for every 1 ppm chlorine to offset the effects of the chlorine, if the pH has risen would not the chlorine would be less effective? Would tenentwick be able to read the pH, even with a good test kit, at these high chlorine levels; unless of course he has a pH meter? The cloudiness might disappear faster.
Second, I realize that according to posts that the SWG can handle 3900 ppm of salt, but that does not mean it is good for the SWG. Once he turns it back on would it not run too hot thereby shortening the life of it? It is possible that if his Salt level was too high in the first place his cell may already be on the decline and would need a much higher than standard setting to offset the lowered production by a dying cell. This is maybe why he had this issue arise, he may need to replace the cell once this is over. Would it not be better to drain down a little now as he/she will have to do it eventually? This to would remove some of the cloudiness.
Lastly, was any nitrate test done, with a cheap aquarium test, to see if he his fighting an ongoing chlorine versus nitrate issue? Of course chlorine can control it but it would require more than normal amounts of chlorine to offset the ever present danger of potential algae blooms or growth. High levels of phosphates, if nitrates are present, increase the likeliness of this issue, phosphates can be an issue if high levels of nitrates are present. Unfortunately the only way to get rid of nitrates is to drain. One should reduce the nitrates to a manageable level if too high. Phosphates levels then are not that important if the nitrate is reduced, and would not normally require treatment.
Split off of this topic. JasonLion
First, should tenentwick not have added to tenentwick's 28,000 gallon pool for every 10 ppm of chlorine, 50 oz of Muriatic Acid or 5 oz for every 1 ppm chlorine to offset the effects of the chlorine, if the pH has risen would not the chlorine would be less effective? Would tenentwick be able to read the pH, even with a good test kit, at these high chlorine levels; unless of course he has a pH meter? The cloudiness might disappear faster.
Second, I realize that according to posts that the SWG can handle 3900 ppm of salt, but that does not mean it is good for the SWG. Once he turns it back on would it not run too hot thereby shortening the life of it? It is possible that if his Salt level was too high in the first place his cell may already be on the decline and would need a much higher than standard setting to offset the lowered production by a dying cell. This is maybe why he had this issue arise, he may need to replace the cell once this is over. Would it not be better to drain down a little now as he/she will have to do it eventually? This to would remove some of the cloudiness.
Lastly, was any nitrate test done, with a cheap aquarium test, to see if he his fighting an ongoing chlorine versus nitrate issue? Of course chlorine can control it but it would require more than normal amounts of chlorine to offset the ever present danger of potential algae blooms or growth. High levels of phosphates, if nitrates are present, increase the likeliness of this issue, phosphates can be an issue if high levels of nitrates are present. Unfortunately the only way to get rid of nitrates is to drain. One should reduce the nitrates to a manageable level if too high. Phosphates levels then are not that important if the nitrate is reduced, and would not normally require treatment.