For a salt pool these numbers are very good at helping prevent pH rise and maintaining a proper chorine level.
FC 3-5 ppm
CC < .5 ppm (If it's higher shock with liquid chlorine to about 15-20 ppm)
pH 7.6 (when it hits 7.8 add enough acid to drop it to 7.6 and no lower)
TA 70-90 ppm before stabilizer correction (this will help lower the amount of CO2 outgassed and help slow the eventual pH rise)
CH 250 or so for vinyl or fiberglass, 300 for plaster. Slighly higher is OK but check your cell for scaling regularly.
CYA 70 ppm or slightly higher unless you have one of the 'Australian style' SWGs that recommend 80-100 ppm CYA. In that case 80-90 is a better choice
Borates 50 ppm (when they drop to 30 ppm bring them back up to 50). This will help stabiize the pH and reduce acid consumption and sanitizer demand.
I have seen these numbers work on my own pool and my customers pools. The most important numbers are the FC, pH, TA, and CYA. Borates do make a big difference. I would definately recommend them. Calcium is more important for plaster pools. You want the calcium saturation index to be on the slightly scaling side. In a fiberglass or vinyl pool slightly aggresive to slightly scaling is ok. Actually pH is the most important thing to watch for scaling or agressive water and temp the second most imortant. If your calcium is in the ballpark then don't worry about it too much. If it is very low or very high then it can be problematic.