Strannik said:
since it cannot auto compensate forever, after a while you will still get a warning to check cell (assuming the unit is equipped with such functionality). but it means you can use your cell for longer, instead of having to buy a new cell early.
Couldn't I just add more salt to extend the life of the cell? Increasing voltage or salt accomplishes the same thing. Higher amps and higher chlorine production. Granted it is not as easy as autocompensation but without autocompensation, it would seem that I would get a warning earlier in the cell failure.
Strannik said:
it's hard to detect cell failing with 100% certainty, because a number of conditions can cause same behavior: low salt, low temperature, dirty cell, cell failing all appear the same to the controller. so unless your unit has a proper salt meter you won't be able to tell which one it is.
and then even if it does - it still cannot distinguish between failed cell and dirty cell, cause they behave the same.
hence why autochlor labels the appropriate warning light "Low salt/check cell"
The Aqualogic also has a low salt warning light. But if I were to get a low salt light, there are several steps I could take to determine if the cell is faulty.
First, the Aqualogic salt readings stay fairly constant (+-100 ppm) with temperature all the way down to 50 degrees so that has never been an issue for me.
Second, if I check and clean the cell, then I have eliminated that as a reason.
Third, if I know there has not been any rain/spash out recently, I can eliminate that as well. If I did have that, then I would simply add salt.
So that only leaves a failing cell and I can confirm that with a salt test drop kit.
My orginal comment was that I didn't think periodic testing more than once a season was necessary unless of course the cell starts to fail. In fact, I have gone 4+ years testing salt levels with a test kit no more than once a year just to check the condition of the cell. Not everyone may be able to get away with this but it has worked out ok for me.