Fresh start at a new (to me) pool

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Well, it looks like I was too late on getting back with the realtor. The pool company came over, cleaned and filled the pool, started up the pumps, and added who-knows-what to the pool. It appears they put trichlor pucks in a floater, and maybe in an automatic feeder that is attached to the plumbing coming from one of the pumps. The pool looks good right now, and the upside is that I didn't have to pay for any of the work or chemicals :) I was planning on getting started with trichlor anyways, so I could get the CYA up to where I want it, and there is a bucket of tabs they left for me. After I get started using BBB, what should I do with the automatic feeder that's attached to the pump plubming? I was thinking of leaving everything as it is, just no tabs in it.
Here's the water chemistry from my cheapie CL and Ph test: FC=above 5.0ppm Ph=8.0. The Ph is probably incorrect because the test kit states for an accurate Ph test the CL must be below 5.0. It appears the pool company had shocked the pool. Would areation affect the test results? The pool company has started up the bubbles in the spa and also has it set up to spill over from the spa to the pool. Should it shut this off?

EDIT: The automatic chlorine feeder appears to be disconnected
 
Well, it's a double edged sword, isn't it. Without knowing what they used to shock with, we don't know what your CYA is so we don't know what you should keep your FC at...esp if they used Dichlor...

Try the shot glass method for dilution to see if you can get another reading on the chlorine - if it's not too high perhaps a small adjustment to the ph would be ok.

I would turn off the spillover and only have the spa running when you need it, yes the aeration will cause the PH to rise.

Too bad the chlorinator isn't working, that can be handy for vacations.
 
guamguy said:
After I get started using BBB, what should I do with the automatic feeder that's attached to the pump plubming? I was thinking of leaving everything as it is, just no tabs in it.

Be careful if you decide to wash it out after removing the trichlor tabs... if possible, wear gloves and eye protection. I believe most plumbed feeders have a valve of some kind to stop/start the feed. You could leave it attached and in the future use the trichlor when you will be gone on vacation.

Here's the water chemistry from my cheapie CL and Ph test: FC=above 5.0ppm Ph=8.0. The Ph is probably incorrect because the test kit states for an accurate Ph test the CL must be below 5.0. It appears the pool company had shocked the pool. Would aeration affect the test results? The pool company has started up the bubbles in the spa and also has it set up to spill over from the spa to the pool. Should it shut this off?

Aeration contributes to a rise in pH so if you were trying to keep it in check, you'd want to reduce or eliminate your use of water features, including bubblers. If your pool shares plumbing with the spa the spill-over is not such a bad thing; it keeps the water mixed and simplifies water testing/treatment. A spill-over that is well above the pool surface will add to pH. You may have to experiment for a few weeks to see what works to maintain pH.

A chlorine level of 5 ppm that is determined using a test kit that only goes up to 5 ppm may not be reliable -- it may be somewhat higher.

EDIT: The automatic chlorine feeder appears to be disconnected

If you need help reconnecting, post a picture of how it's currently attached to the plumbing.
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Went back over to the pool and tested the water, FC=3.0, and Ph=7.6. Looks like I'm getting there. My tf100 should be here in the next few days, so I'll be able to see exactly what shape the water is in and what my next steps will be. I'd like to be able to turn off the spa and only run it when I need to, but the spa has it's own pump that draws water from the pool and sends it to the spa, wouldn't the water in the spa get stagnant without being circulated?
 
guamguy said:
Went back over to the pool and tested the water, FC=3.0, and Ph=7.6. Looks like I'm getting there. My tf100 should be here in the next few days, so I'll be able to see exactly what shape the water is in and what my next steps will be. I'd like to be able to turn off the spa and only run it when I need to, but the spa has it's own pump that draws water from the pool and sends it to the spa, wouldn't the water in the spa get stagnant without being circulated?
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In the summertime, I operate my pool and spa separately by setting up two daily pump/filter schedules. One for the pool and automatic sweeper; and another very short period of filtering just for the spa. On your equipment setup it sounds like the pool water is the spa's return. Does the water from the spa get pumped through a filter -- or just back into the pool?

Either way, you'll want to run the spa pump periodically, if not every day. For spas with very low bather load (none!), sufficient chlorine and CYA, you can let it sit a few days without filtering. In Guam or any warm climate, really, if you don't filter or cover the spa water for a week or two you risk losing chlorine and having dirt accumulate in the spa.
 
The spa pump takes suction from the pool and sends the water straight to the spa without going through a filter. The water in the spa spills over into the pool. Whenever the timer shuts off the pumps, most of the water drains back into the pool, flowing backward through the piping, since the spa level is higher than the pool. It's kind of a strange setup, I've never seen anything like it before. I'll get some pics posted on here of the pool and pumphouse as well as the statistics on all my equipment. Just have been VERY busy trying to get moved in to the new house, since I need to be out of there by Saturday!!!
 
There is normally a check valve to prevent the water from flowing out of the spa through the plumbing. That check valve might be broken or stuck open. Some kinds of check valves can be opened up and cleaned/checked, other kinds can only be replaced.
 
JasonLion said:
There is normally a check valve to prevent the water from flowing out of the spa through the plumbing. That check valve might be broken or stuck open. Some kinds of check valves can be opened up and cleaned/checked, other kinds can only be replaced.
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I looked around for a check valve in the pumphouse and didn't see one. Looks like that will be a project for me after we get settled in to the new house
 
OK, got my tf100 test kit (Thanks duraleigh!) Now for the results:
TA=130
FC=1.5
CC=0
CH=220
Ph=7.6
CYA=less than 20 :shock:
So it looks like I need to add some bleach and some CYA. I measured the pool, and it holds just about 12,200 gallons, the spa is about 400 gallons
 
Aside from the low FC and CYA, which you already noticed, your numbers look fairly good. The slightly high TA balances out the slightly low CH. I would let the TA drift down over time, which it will probably do on its own. As the TA comes down, you will want to raise CH a little. But only FA and CYA need attention right away.
 

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A very big thanks for all who helped me with the great advice to get my pool started up :goodjob: The water looks Wonderful and keeping the water balanced is so easy! I'll get some pics posted of the pool this weekend. We're moved into the new house and enjoying the pool :whoot: in between trying to get all our stuff put away.
 
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