New Pool Closing Sequence

Oct 18, 2018
7
Rensselaer
My pool is only a few months old and the Pool Builder performed it's first seasonal closing last week. As part of the purchase, the builder will also open our pool next year; after which I plan to do both myself. I've been reading as much information and hunting through various threads to attempt to explain how my builder winterized the pool, so that I could document and replicat next year.

The basics are simple: My chemicals were balanced, and I lowered the water level to a couple inches below the two skimmers. On the day of the closing the builder pour a 5 gal pail of chlorine into the pool, as well as a jug of algaecide. Then they removed the stair handrail, pool ladder, and return jet eye's. All simple and routine.

Plumbing background: I have two Skimmers (Shallow End & Deep End), eight return jet's, and two bottom drains. At my pool equipment I have three return pipes with shutoff valves (Shallow End Skimmer, Deep End Skimmer, and Deep End Bottom Drain). Supplying the pool I have three corresponding pipes with shutoff valves (same as return lines).

Here's where I lost the sequence: The builder hooked up the cyclone to the shallow end skimmer (with a specific sized hose to the hayward skimmer). He backwashed the sandfilter for just a moment to basically put standing water in the discharge hose (pump was obviously shut off afterward). I'm curious to understand which valves were left open and which were closed for the next sequence of events: With the cyclone turned on, water began shooting out of the Deep End Skimmer (remember - air was being pumped into the shallow end skimmer). Once it was mainly air, a black plug was inserted into the Skimmer pipe. Then the chain of return jets around the pool started to discharge water (one at a time they were plug as it turned to mostly air). Once the last return jet was plug the main drains started bubbling like crazy (rather impressive considering). After roughly 1 min, the men closed the bottom drain valve to lock that off, which then caused the sand filter to blow air out of the backwash hose. (The small components of the sand filter were removed prior to this time). In the end, air was gently pushing out of the backwash hose until one of the men turned off the cyclone. They opened the drain on the heater (which was bypassed this entire time), and took off the SWG.

All in all, it took roughly 10 minutes max. The cyclone was only hooked up to the shallow end skimmer. At this point the winterization was done, and I had a new safety cover installed.

My apologizes for the detailed explanation - My question is, does anyone know how or which valves I need to maneuver in order to make that sequence happen next year? Just to note: all valves are now open except the deep end bottom drain (which is closed for air-lock). Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated.
 
Welcome! :wave: I'm one of the fortunate ones down south that doesn't normally have to close. :) I suspect in your case everything was manipulated by the 3-way valves on the suction side before your pump. But pools can be plumbed differently. It might help to post a pic of your equipment pad so we can ask see what you have to work with.
 
Hi Pat,

I would imagine you are correct, it was all done by manipulating any series of valves. It wasn't all together clear, while standing there in person!

Here is a picture of the pool equipment: Three right side pipes are the return from pool in this order: (left to right) Main Drain, Deep End Skimmer, Shallow End Skimmer. The three left side pipes are the filtered supply back to the pool jets. Currently, you can see the two valves that are closed, additionally there is a black plug in the pump basket (done after all lines were blown out and cyclone was shut off). Any help with the valve and/or filter sequence to blow out all lines from the shallow end skimmer would be greatly appreciated.
IMG_5832.jpg
 
This is a straight forward closing. First, air is blown out the front of the pump (suction side) only one valve is left open, when that one is clear of water, it’s closed then each successive valve is opened until all are cleared.the same goes for the top of the pump (pressure side).
 
Just leave all valves open and the multiport on recirculate. Close the heater bypass. Remove the filter drain plug.

Then begin blowing and close the valves individually and/or plug each line as each line blows.

Once the last line blows and its valve is closed, turn off the blower and quickly close the skimmer line valve at the same time. Install Gizzmos in the skimmers.

Then, remove the pump and heater drain plugs.

Shut off the power at the breaker so that the pump timer doesn't turn it back on.
 
BoNeZ82:

Welcome to the forum. It really does not matter where you start clearing the lines from, whether it be from the skimmers and/or the equipment pad. The PB used air to move water, and worked with the shut off valves everywhere. Air travelled from the skimmer to the filter, through the heater, past the dummy pipe for the salt cell and to the returns and probably even back to the main drain and other skimmer, maneuvering the shut off valves, etc.

Only the main drain can not be plugged, and this is where they used the shut off valve to trap air in the system, an industry term called an “air lock”. All the remainder runs were closed off with winter plugs (returns in the pool in which you have 8 of them), and Gizzmo’s in the skimmers. Eventually your skimmer line that the Cyclone was hooked up closed up with another Gizzmo.

I always recommend working from the equipment pad and clearing out the lines on the return side first. You could shut off the valve on the return side (so the heater is not bypassed) and clear this line first. Once you plug off the first line (with the help of a second hand), you can open up the bypass valve for the heater and close both runs so now air can only travel towards the other return lines. Once the returns are completed and all 8 of them are plugged, then you can go back and start on the suction side. You can clear out the 2 skimmers first and install Gizzmo’s. If you lower the water 1” below the skimmers, then clearing the lines will be very easy. You can shut off the main drain, clear the skimmer lines and then install the Gizzmo’s (of course with the blower off). Then go back to the main drain.

Below is a detailed thread on closing a pool with a sand filter. Your system is very neatly organized and you could get away with an air compressor, but you may just want to invest in a Cyclone for next year. The 1.5” hose is flexible enough to place inside the pump housing, where the basket goes. You would not need to create a modified cover. You could also work with the Blow-Thru plugs, or an NPT adapter at the pump. Because you have so many lines, it is best to isolate each area if you have trouble clearing the lines. Always have a second hand to shut off the blower when need be. Thanks!

Concept of closing an IG Swimming Pool

The concept of closing an in ground swimming pool
 
All - thank you! This has been extremely helpful.

Catanzaro - I appreciate the advice of working from the equipment side, at the start of this entire process I was thrown off by the fact that the builder was pushing air from the skimmer as opposed to the pump as "The Concept of Closing an in ground swimming pool" described. Thank you again for taking the time to detail this process, it all makes perfect sense. As others have stated it is a straight forward setup.

Now the countdown to April 2019 begins!
 
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