Do phosphates matter?

Nov 19, 2016
30
Pelham /AL
I have seen on TFP that phosphates don't matter. I have kept my pool at FC-6-7, PH -7.6, CYA-80, TA-60-70, have yet to have any CC's. I have had algae twice in the last 2 months. I have a TF -100 test kit but I took a sample to Leslies today and they say the reason I have gotten algae is because my phosphates was 500. Could this be true? All my other tests lined up with theirs.
 
Ann,

It is highly unlikely that 500 ppb of phosphates has anything to do with your algae problem.

Most likely you never got rid of it all together and that is why it is coming back.

Did you do a SLAM before jumping on the TFP bandwagon? If you already have algae, keeping your FC at 6 or 7 will not keep it from growing..

I recommend that you do a full SLAM... See this link... SLAM Process

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Just noticed the algae today and started a slam. It was 2 months ago when I had to slam before. I did the whole process according to TFP and water was crystal clear until today. Surely there wasn't any algae left from then and FC hasn't been below 6 since then. I know the leaves are starting to fall now but I clean out the skimmer at least twice daily.
 
And herein lies the problem. As I stated earlier, 2 months ago I slammed the pool. I know that a slam is not complete until it passes a OCLT, which it did. And I kept the FC at least at 6. Shouldn't have an algae problem again, but I did. My original post was asking about phosphates because I knew nothing about them and have never tested for them. Then Leslies tells me that's the problem, but evidently it's not. So I guess my pool is prone to algae even though I've tried to do everything right. I guess I will follow the TFP way plus shock it every month (even though I shouldn't have to) and see if that works. Thanks for your input.
 
jspann1953, we know phosphates are looked upon as algae food. For most pools, an elevated phosphate level simply means that there is food available, but if the algae is not present there's nothing to consume it, so it doesn't matter. Most TFP owners are probably oblivious of their phosphate level for that reason. Joe asks the question of scrubbing and circulation because even if the water has a consistent FC level above the TFP minimum, an organic biofilm can develop in some areas of the pool contributing to algae. Of course there are other factors that can contribute to the development of algae, but every pool is different.

While TFP maintains the concept that phosphates are not a primary contributor to algae development, there are some unusual cases across the country where a pool owner may need to consider phosphate management. Again, this is not common, and most pool owners do not need to go down that road. In most TFP scenarios, algae simply showed itself from something overlooked or unforeseen (storms, missed FC dosing, testing, hidden algae location, etc).

As a pool owner you have every right to pursue phosphate management if you wish. Just remember it doesn't remove algae. Once algae is in, you must perform a SLAM Process. If you do decide to explore phosphate management, we recommend you obtain your own phosphate test kit. Just like other tests performed at the local pool store, they can be flawed, so it's always best to test the water on your own. Also, we recommend avoiding the local store's over-the-counter phosphate products as most of them are overpriced at ($60 per bottle) and do little to control phosphates. Instead, consider purchasing a commercial-grade product from SeaKlear and Orenda. Those seem to be much more reliable and should last a very long time.

Hope that helps.
 
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I brush or vacuum weekly and the 1-1/2 hp pump circulates real well. No removal stairs. On this Radiant Metric pool I was able to get inground steps. Since my first post, I googled about the phosphates and most opinions are like yours, they are algae food, but don't cause it. Plus 500 isn't very high. The first winter, I had algae twice, that's why I found TFP. Last winter I closed it due to being gone from mid Jan to mid April. I followed closing instrucions from TFP and opened to crystal clear water. THANKS!!! If I have algae again, I might as well close it. That's less work than fighting algae during the winter.
 
Sorry, I didn't mean to suggest you hadn't done the OCLT after a SLAM; you sound to me like you have a great handle on TFPC. I just mentioned it because it can be done anytime to find out if there's algae there now.
 

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Also, it's important to remember that the recommend levels published here are guidelines. They cannot possible cover every pool and every pool's contingencies. If you're very confident that your FC level is 6, and you've ruled out the other possibilities that others here are having you check, then the remaining possibility is that 6 is just too low for your pool. Simple as that. So after trying some or all of the other ideas, try FC7. Or 8.

As in all things, everything is negotiable!! ;)
 
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No problem. Glad I found this site 2 years ago because my PB didn't inform me very much about pool maintenance. All I know that really helps came from TFP. I do feel like I've got a good handle on it, but it's aggravating that although I'm following the wisdom of pool owners like you and others that I'm not getting the best results. I really thought everything was going smoothly this summer til 2 months ago, then BAM, I got algae again. And then again yesterday.
 
Sure was hoping to find a green monster behind the lights, but no. Not sure if these lights were to be taken out in the water. Six screws, a gasket, O-ring and bubbles came out when I pulled the lights. I disonnected them at the box, don't use them anyway. I'll bump my FC to 7 after the slam and see what happens.
 
Sure was hoping to find a green monster behind the lights, but no. Not sure if these lights were to be taken out in the water. Six screws, a gasket, O-ring and bubbles came out when I pulled the lights. I disonnected them at the box, don't use them anyway. I'll bump my FC to 7 after the slam and see what happens.

Uh, that's sounds bad. Not my expertise, but that sounds like the kind of light where you change the bulb, not the whole fixture. You'd bring the fixture up to the deck, remove the screws, o-ring, etc, open it up to change the bulb and then put it all back together dry, then submerge and put it back in the niche.

It should have gone like this:

Pool Light Niche- underwater video of light fixture being removed from the niche by Mike the Poolman - YouTube

Or something like this:

How To: Replace A Swimming Pool or Spa Light - YouTube

or any number of other styles. But if you opened up the light housing underwater, and exposed the inside of it to water, you've got a potentially very dangerous situation. If you don't know how to get everything restored safely, you're going to need to have someone that does look at it for you. Nobody in the water until this gets sorted out, I'm afraid. People have died messing with lights without the knowledge to do so.

Post the name and model of light. Maybe someone here can better advise you.
 
Yesterday I watched about 4 videos including the first one you reccomended, but mine was an LED, PAL-2T2 light fitted with LAU-2 Color Lock Lamp. But as I said, I disconnected the wires at the box going to the lights. No juice coming to the pool. Was really hoping I would find algae in it so I could have solved my proplem.
 
So why not try using a phosphate remover :confused: What's the worst that can happen....you're out $40??

SLAM the pool to remove algae then, when you've completed the SLAM, treat the water for phosphates. You don't have to buy a test kit if you don't want to (although they're only $20 or so, so again, not really a big deal...). Just assume your water has 500-1000ppb PO4 in it and then treat for 1000ppb. Using a commercial grade phosphate remover (as Pat suggests) means you'll probably need about a 8-12oz dose, give or take. Since you have a sand filter, you might need a clarifier to help reduce the cloudiness caused by the phosphate remover OR you could use DE in your sand filter to help speed up the phosphate particulate removal. All-in-all, the process should take no more than a few days too complete (not like anyone is swimming now anyways). Then wait & see....if you notice that algae stops appearing or is more easily controlled, then it's worth the time and money. If not, oh well, you're out a few pool toys for next season.....

And, if you have not done so, I would suggest you deep clean your sand filter after you SLAM to make sure that the filter media and equipment is completely clean and clear. Do this before you remove phosphates.
 

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