kmb997
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After pricing online, I see the 45M1 and 45M2 are the same price. Is there any advantage in getting the 45M2 or should I stick with the 45M1?
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
Aquaman95 said:I should also mention to you that if you are running in a true flooded suction install (suction line through bulkhead at bottom of tank so gravity forces bleach to pump head) you should put a non-metallic inline or y strainer with shut off valve prior to the pump head. This replaces the foot valve strainer you would normally have if you weren't running flooded suction. This strainer stops "junk" from clogging up the small orifices inside the pump head.
It's a bit of a pain to set up, but flooded suction is the best way to go with a dipahragm pump used to pump bleach unless you have a self venting pump head or vent valve on the injection side. Bleach is a gassy solution and it is easy for the pump to air lock at the head. Flooded suction will stop this.
kmb997 said:After pricing online, I see the 45M1 and 45M2 are the same price. Is there any advantage in getting the 45M2 or should I stick with the 45M1?
Thanks for the help.
randytsuch said:Aquaman95 said:I should also mention to you that if you are running in a true flooded suction install (suction line through bulkhead at bottom of tank so gravity forces bleach to pump head) you should put a non-metallic inline or y strainer with shut off valve prior to the pump head. This replaces the foot valve strainer you would normally have if you weren't running flooded suction. This strainer stops "junk" from clogging up the small orifices inside the pump head.
It's a bit of a pain to set up, but flooded suction is the best way to go with a dipahragm pump used to pump bleach unless you have a self venting pump head or vent valve on the injection side. Bleach is a gassy solution and it is easy for the pump to air lock at the head. Flooded suction will stop this.
I set it up this weekend as a true flooded setup, with the suction line at the bottom of the tank. But, I am still using the foot valve strainer. I drilled a hole near the bottom of my tank. The hole was just big enough to run the tubing through, and I sealed it with hot glue. I put the strainer at the end of the tubing, so it's sitting at the bottom of my tank. I have one coupler to connect the tank tube, and another tube that goes to the pump intake.
Randy
Aquaman95 said:I have no idea how resistant hot glue it to bleach but if it is that should work from what you are describing. I'd keep a close eye on it though...you don't want any leaks at the bottom of the tank.
DLSDO said:Is the pump hardwired?
kmb997 said:I'm planning to get a stenner pump, for chlorine, and my plan is to use a tee instead of drilling into the pipe. I'm not sure how it will work, so I'll post what I am going to try, and hope to get some feedback.
1.5" x 1" x 1.5 tee
From the 1" part of the tee, I bought a 1" to .5" reducer. .5" side is threaded
From the .5" reducer, I bought a .5" to a .25" threaded quick connect male adapter
I also bought a .5" threaded plug in case I need to disconnect the tubing for some reason.
I think all of that will work, but I forgot about the injection check valve. What can I do to incorporate the check valve?
Any suggestions on that setup?
Thanks
Aquaman95
50 fl oz. total feed per day = .390625 USG. Since you're trying to inject that in 8 hours but we're sizing based on GPD, multiply that times 3 for a feed rate of 1.18 GPD. The Stenner 45M1 as you have suggested has a max feed rate of 3 GPD, but if you turn the feed rate control down to the #4 setting that will get you close at 1.2 GPD. That's about as close as you can come.
kmb997 said:I just finished setting up the Stenner chlorine injector. Are there any problems with the way it is set up? Did I set up the connections to the stenner pump correctly? Also, should there be a clicking noise while the stenner is spinning?
Aquaman95
50 fl oz. total feed per day = .390625 USG. Since you're trying to inject that in 8 hours but we're sizing based on GPD, multiply that times 3 for a feed rate of 1.18 GPD. The Stenner 45M1 as you have suggested has a max feed rate of 3 GPD, but if you turn the feed rate control down to the #4 setting that will get you close at 1.2 GPD. That's about as close as you can come.
I'm still using 50oz. a day = .390625USG, but I will be running the pump for a total of 9 hours, 3-3hour intervals, instead of 8. Also, I am using 3/8" tubing. Can you tell me what setting I will need to use? Did you multiply by the 3 GPD or did that come from somewhere else? How do the hours factor into the equation?
Thanks
investindy said:Already in the middle of building my own system and hadn't found this thread yet....Question regarding where to "inject" the chlroine, on the suction or pressure side? I realize the pressure side may require a check valve but then there is the risk of corrosion or deteriation from the chlorine with one of those...Dont see much harm on the suction side as long its not too agressive for the filters pump (not very diluted)...
I also found several tips for the connection on the PVC and at the pump but what all has everyone been using at the barrel? Kinda a catch 22 because you need it to vent some but also not evaporate on you.
Edit: Seems I found in the thread a few of the users do the pressurse side....Any reccomendations on what materials will stand up to the chlorine? Second part, seen about one person using hot glue to seal where their tube to the bucket goes in, any other connectors out there for this? Do you think I need a filter at the bottom of my hose in the bucket?
investindy said:Like the Stenner....I found a used Pulsafeeder unit I plan to put it on the Pressure side. Don't know as of yet if the roller is in contact the entire time to prevent flowback or if I truly will need an "injection valve (aka check valve)"......
The other part is even though its very innocent suction on the barrel side do I need to be concerned if I fully seal the connection/port sucking the chlorine out. I want it sealed due to stopping vapors emmiting/losses. But I don't know how much, if any issues with suction and or air/pressure changes on my drum with temperature changes. I know it will be some but is it even significant?
investindy said:Perhaps my concern is minimal about gases from the entry point of my tubing coming in, I may try clay, putty, or hot glue from some of the tips other posters. Was thinking of the smell and possible waste having it go to vapor....
Regarding the footvalve though, what is that? Could I just use a rigid tubing in there to make sure its at the bottom? What material for a weight and attaching to the hose so the chlorine doesn't eat it?