Help Me Confirm Failing Salt Cell - Hayward AquaRite T-9

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bobandsherry

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Bronze Supporter
Apr 20, 2016
394
Riverview, FL
This morning I noticed that my control box was flashing a "low flow". It was not a consistent flash, flashing perhaps 10 times or so, then a pause, then flashing 10 times or so again. Continued to do this.

I powered off the salt system and then turned it back on. The "low flow" was no longer flashing. All readings looked fine. I then reversed polarity and had significantly different readings for the Instant Salinity. The Voltage and Current readings were also different. Here's the readings:

Polarity 1
Voltage: 26.6 / Current 4.44 / Instant Salinity: -3100

Polarity 2
Voltage: 27.1 / Current 3.66 / Instant Salinity: -2400​

I have tested salt level in my water using K1766. I got 3200. So Polarity 1 looks to be right on target.

Does this sound like a failing cell? Cell has been installed for 2 years.
 
When a cell is failing they almost always read the salinity low. Unless you have been running it at 100% for those two years I doubt it’s failing. Have you checked your flow? Is the filter jammed up? Is the flow switch working correctly (solid red light when pumps off, followed by blinking light for 30 seconds when you start the pump, then switching to solid green)
 
Pool_Medic said:
When a cell is failing they almost always read the salinity low. Unless you have been running it at 100% for those two years I doubt it’s failing. Have you checked your flow? Is the filter jammed up? Is the flow switch working correctly (solid red light when pumps off, followed by blinking light for 30 seconds when you start the pump, then switching to solid green)
Click to expand...

Flow appears to be fine. Flow switch appears to be working correctly, it does turn solid red when pump is off, then does blink while pump starts up. Just verified again with pump shut off / on.

Filter was deep cleaned in February (complete tear down and grids hosed off). Backwash was completed a month ago. Screen enclosure so rarely any leaves or things like that to jam up filter. Pressure gauge is within normal reading as well.

Appears that cell is still producing chlorine, bubbles appear at the return for both polarities.

Reverified the results, current readings (fairly consistent to earlier readings).

Polarity 1
Voltage: 26.5 / Current 4.88 / Instant Salinity: -3100

Polarity 2
Voltage: 27.0 / Current 3.80 / Instant Salinity: -2400​

My understanding is the intant salinity is only calculated (using the Voltage and Current readings). So if that's true, then is a higher voltage reading and lower current rating then indicative of anything? If my current reading was higher then the instant salinity would be higher. So what is cause of lower current reading?
 
In researching the range for the voltage and amps it seems my cell is slightly outside the "acceptable" (v=22.0-26.0), should is it being slightly higher a concern?

The amps are well within the range for T-9 (2.3 - 6.7).

So still at loss as to why the salinity is so different for the two polarities or why the "low flow" would have been flashing (though not a continuous flash which I've seen nothing on that). I've inspected the cell and see no build up.
 
The flow switch might be failing or the flow might be right on the edge of closing the switch with it opening and closing.

What speed is the pump running?

Make sure that the cell is set correctly in settings.

A difference in the salinity from one polarity to the other is usually scale or a failing cell.

If the cell is clean, you probably have a bad cell.

What are the first 4 of the cell serial number?
 
JamesW said:
The flow switch might be failing or the flow might be right on the edge of closing the switch with it opening and closing.

What speed is the pump running?

Make sure that the cell is set correctly in settings.

A difference in the salinity from one polarity to the other is usually scale or a failing cell.

If the cell is clean, you probably have a bad cell.

What are the first 4 of the cell serial number?
Click to expand...

So far no issues with flow sensor today. When I noticed the flashing it was rapid and consistent, not an arbitrary flashing to signal open/close of switch. It did have a pause after a series of flashing, kind of what I've seen with other devices that use flashing for troubleshooting.

At the time the pump was running at 1400RPM, but I increased to 2500RPM and still had the flashing. I turned off breaker to the SWG controller box, waited for display on control panel to go out and the flipped the breaker back on. That cleared the flow signal.

Here's the first digits for SWG cell.
3E15301, which I understand is then 3 year warranty, built in 2015 on day 301. Must have been old stock as my pool wasn't completed until July 2016, and the Hayward was installed in September 2016.
 
When the flow switch first closes, the no flow light will blink for about 30 seconds and then the light will go out.

If the no flow light is solid, that means no flow.

If the cell is clean and the setting in the diagnostic readings is t-9, then I would suggest a warranty claim.
 
JamesW said:
When the flow switch first closes, the no flow light will blink for about 30 seconds and then the light will go out.

If the no flow light is solid, that means no flow.

If the cell is clean and the setting in the diagnostic readings is t-9, then I would suggest a warranty claim.
Click to expand...
Thanks Jim. In this case the flow sensor just flashed for the several minutes I watched it. The light was not solid and didn't turn off after 30 seconds.

In retrospect, what it seemed to be doing, it would flash and then instead of stopping it just reset and flashed again, repeatedly. That's my guess anyways due to the flashing and then with very momentary pause and then it flashing again. Maybe that is point you were trying to make and I wasn't understanding. Hmmm... So would that be a fault in circuit board or flow switch? Hmmm....

Still doesn't explain why the significant difference in the readings based on polarity. Time to take unit to Pinch a Penny and have them test it.

And BTW, yes the diagnostic reading is T-9. I've learned that lesson after panicking once before when the readouts where just all wonky, stepped back through each and then noticed somehow I had switched it to T-15.
 
I suspect that the flow switch is failing or the flow is close.

The plug might be loose. Try disconnecting it and reconnecting it.

Maybe it's opening and closing.

The different instant salinity in both polarities is a good indication that the cell is bad.

I would suggest a warranty claim.
 

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I just went through a similar situation, My positive polarity was reading 3100 ppm and negative polarity was reading 2400 ppm. Took it to a local pool store to have the Hayward cell tested and unfortunately they bent the pins when connecting to the tester. I had a great outcome though as the owner ordered me a brand new T-cell 940(extended) to replace because of the pins they bent. Now my reading is the same on both polarities. :)
 
Last look at Instant Salinity of the cell before taking it off to get tested showed Polarity #1 at -3100 (water test shows as 3200 so that seems good), but polarity #2 was -2100. I took my salt cell to Pinch a Penny for testing. They tested the cell twice and it passed. So it seems it may be the panel in the box that's going. Going to have to call pool builder and have them test the box.
 

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