Hi!
Starting new thread as advised as other was old. But this was a great thread:
Amerilite Pool Light Leaks. A Fix and what I've learned
It describes G flex epoxy, make a form, fill it, and encase the housing/wire junction in epoxy (waterproof and more flexible than regular epoxy)
Well, for me: 2 days on Amazon, 22 miles to retail.
What is the diff using Loctite Marine Epoxy? Or RTV silicone for that matter? Adherence? Looking for something in next 24 hrs. Light is sitting on pool coping.
I ask first because it is hard to put the "wrong" goo on a part then wish you hadn't!
He (Bobbystone) turned the light on above ground to try to heat air in fixture to let a little expanded air out to create a vacuum then tightly sealed the lens gasket in the front of the fixture. He was trying to avoid heated air blowing out the repair later, then letting water in he said. Seems to me if you have vacuum you are relying on your bonded material to not let water be pulled in by the vacuum you created. Either way the seal has to hold right?
I am trying to avoid heating a fixture out of water that will have to be replaced if I guess at "what amount of time to heat" is wrong.
Why (since pulling wire is never fun) don't they make these lights with a serviceable connector? A locknut and an O ring. I don't need an answer on that, just more the sealing question. If it doesn't work, well, then hundreds of dollars to have someone put a new light in, because I won't pull wire, too far to the pad to think it will go easily for me.
Thanks!
Bob
Starting new thread as advised as other was old. But this was a great thread:
Amerilite Pool Light Leaks. A Fix and what I've learned
It describes G flex epoxy, make a form, fill it, and encase the housing/wire junction in epoxy (waterproof and more flexible than regular epoxy)
Well, for me: 2 days on Amazon, 22 miles to retail.
What is the diff using Loctite Marine Epoxy? Or RTV silicone for that matter? Adherence? Looking for something in next 24 hrs. Light is sitting on pool coping.
I ask first because it is hard to put the "wrong" goo on a part then wish you hadn't!
He (Bobbystone) turned the light on above ground to try to heat air in fixture to let a little expanded air out to create a vacuum then tightly sealed the lens gasket in the front of the fixture. He was trying to avoid heated air blowing out the repair later, then letting water in he said. Seems to me if you have vacuum you are relying on your bonded material to not let water be pulled in by the vacuum you created. Either way the seal has to hold right?
I am trying to avoid heating a fixture out of water that will have to be replaced if I guess at "what amount of time to heat" is wrong.
Why (since pulling wire is never fun) don't they make these lights with a serviceable connector? A locknut and an O ring. I don't need an answer on that, just more the sealing question. If it doesn't work, well, then hundreds of dollars to have someone put a new light in, because I won't pull wire, too far to the pad to think it will go easily for me.
Thanks!
Bob
