Spider Gasket Replacement

YesRushGen

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Apr 8, 2008
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Suffolk, VA, US
I'm replacing my spider gasket and multiport valve upper assembly. Removing the old gasket has been absolutely exhausting.

I had very good luck using spudgers and Needle nosed pliers. But still it's been a pain in the you-know-what!!! I've spent hours on removing the old gasket.

I finally performed a test fit of the new gasket, and it seems ok to me.

Am I good to go???
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Looks like you did a pretty good job on your gasket-ectomy. Nice work doctor. As for the new one, did you lube it or anything? There are different ways to install the spider gasket. Lots use silicone, which should be applied carefully so it won't get everywhere. Others use grease, gasket adhesive, and of course super glue and crazy glue if they really want a challenge next time. :hammer:

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Since you have a Pentair, I found this just in case ....
Depending on the specific model of the multiport, Pentair recommends gluing the spider gasket in place. They recommend Loctite 401 or 416, but the Permatex should work as long as you don't get carried away with it.
 
I used a Zacto knife to get mine out and it was a pain. I put the new gasket in and greased it, but it leaks from time to time. I need to try to reset it and it leaks sometimes. I did not know I should have glued it in place, probably the reason it leaks sometimes. I was getting ready to replace the MPV.
 

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Ok, I've torqued everything evenly down and I may have a problem??? The handle is "loose." I can freely select different positions, but the rest state is loose. See attached photos. First one is where it rests, second is where I would expect it to rest. (I'm holding it up)
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You probably noticed if there was a spring underneath correct? No chance it fell off or got pinched somehow? Some valves simply have a little play once they are in the selected mode, but if you have too much and/or suspect the water isn't flowing properly, you may have to unscrew and take a peek. For some, an O-ring was the issue. If the water seems to be flowing through all the selected ports properly, you might just give it a while to see if it changes.
 
At the fill rate, I guess we'll find out tomorrow! I did see some other posts where new installations had some play in the handle and it was normal. I hope that's the case here. I was very slow and methodical with my work! *Crosses fingers*
 
It's a common discussion, but not everyone does it. In reality, it shouldn't matter and I doubt many manuals even touch on it. When the gasket is lubed prior to assembly, the (depressed) valve should slide nicely either way. However some feel that the gasket may become worn or almost trained to allow the valve to move better in the same direction to avoid pinching later, especially with age. By that time, it's probably time to replace it anyways.
 
Update: Haven't fired the system up yet - water finally got to required level just now, so today when I get home, power on!

A follow-up question please: If there is any issue with the spider gasket, how will that manifest itself? Water out the Waste Line? Would I see this while the filter was still filling? Or only the valve is closed and the system is fully pressurized?

I'm wondering if maybe I should let the system run for at least 1 minute before adding my DE... If I determine there's a problem that requires disassembly, I'd loose my DE.
 
Update... 1.5 hours after startup, there is a minor leak coming from the multiport drain plug. I feel like such an idiot, as I hadn't even noticed such a drain plug prior to the project. The leak is very minor and I'm thinking it will seal itself after the system is running for a while.

Thoughts? If it doesn't seal and I have to replace, can I set the multiport valve to CLOSED while remove and replace? Will that hold the filter DE?
 

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