Concerned about pool being 0 chlorine all day

Jun 2, 2018
10
Louisiana
I'm a little concernned about my pool being at 90 degrees all day in the summer sun (Louisiana) I add liquid chlorine at night, and run the filter all night. but as we know the sun burns it off fast. Some days I cover it before the sun comes out, and don't open it until 20 mins before we swim. This seems to be working so far. I keep the pool very clean and also clean my filter daily. TC and FC will be at about 4 in the mornings and will hold that if I cover it. So, when i dont cover it is this heat and zero chlorine breeding bacteria all day?
 
Welcome to the forum! :handshake:

What is the CYA? I notice you are trying to manage with strips and drop test kit from Walmart. That is OK as long as you are good with dumping the water if you get algae.

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I suggest reading Pool School - Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools
 
My CYA tests at 30-50 on the strip. I get a betterPH reading from the dropper and its at 7.65. Hardness at 250
Both total and free chlorine test at 0 because it's the end of the day.
So, no I don't want algae, and this is a bigger pool than listed in the temp.pool thread info. I have read pool school before setting up. So, I could get algae because I can't test my FC and TC properly, is that what you are saying there?
All seems good so far, I just can't hold chlorine in the day time... I do use a floater with tabs, I know they contain some CYA. I know they are somewhat contrevercial as far as using anyway.
 
If your FC is below minimum FC based on your CYA according to [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] then you will get algae.

So what CYA, according to your strip, do you use? We know strips are absolutely inaccurate. So then it is up to you.

If you want to run this pool as a permanent pool, then we suggest getting a proper test kit. The TF100 from TFTestkits.net is the best value or you can get the K2006C.
 
There's no getting around needing a proper test kit. I started off with new water 8 weeks ago. I don't do what most people do when needing to increase CYA. I buy 3" Trichlor tabs at Sam's Club when the go on sale for $60 for 40 lbs. I simply figure out how many tabs I need to reach my desired CYA level. In the case for my new water I put 25 tabs in a jug so I knew when to stop without needing to keep count. I just stopped a few days ago and it took 8 weeks to use the 25 tabs. My CYA test put me at 60 which is what I expected. Along the way I tested for FC and estimated what my minimum should be. Borax was used to maintain proper pH. My non-adjusted TA is now 70. For 6 of those 8 weeks I had the pool covered which lowered Chlorine consumption.

I do this because it's simply easier/less work than adding the CYA all at one time and using liquid chlorine (no SWG). It's also cheaper. This method may not be for everyone but in 9 years I've never had the slightest problem with algae.

I don't "close" my pool and next Spring I'll do the same thing to bring up my CYA to around 60.
 
I do have the tabs (1') that float. So, you use a lot of tabs to bring your CYA up? I know mine is on the low side, even though crappy tester says I am at 50.
It kills me that these stores that sell pools and products don't sell the proper test kits! Friday on payday I am ordering one. Thanks.
 
I do have the tabs (1') that float. So, you use a lot of tabs to bring your CYA up? I know mine is on the low side, even though crappy tester says I am at 50.
It kills me that these stores that sell pools and products don't sell the proper test kits! Friday on payday I am ordering one. Thanks.

I've never used the pure CYA powder to raise my CYA. I've never used the smaller tabs like you have. I know how many PPM that each of the 3" tabs raises CYA and FC for my pools volume. You just need to find the magic number for your size tabs that tells you how much each tab adds to your pool based on the 7,000 gallons.

You must know what your CYA level is to properly sanitize your pool and ensure proper Chlorine dosing.

If you happen to be a Sam's Club member or know someone who is, you probably won't find Trichlor tabs cheaper. As far as I know they only sell the 3" (8 ounce) tabs.

Trichlor tabs get a bad rap mainly because many people that use them aren't aware of the CYA/Chlorine relationship and the need to keep CYA levels in check. The problem arises when CYA levels exceed the recommended levels. 30 to 50 CYA is what is recommended for non saltwater generator systems. I've found that I do best at 50 to 65 CYA because my pool gets full sun (no shade). If you let your CYA get to say, 120, your minimum FC needs to be 10 PPM with a higher target. So if you end up letting the FC drop to half that or less for days on end, a green pool probably isn't far behind. And to add to that, the amount of Chlorine to clear up that mess is very costly---->enter nightmare.

Be sure to read through Pool School if you haven't already. Pool School - Pool School
 
Be careful. I bought some tabs to use when I was traveling for a few weeks once and they had algeacide and who knows what else in them. I had no idea they made tabs with other junk in them so I didn't even think to read the ingredients.
 
My CYA hasnt tested higher than 50 but again i have crappy testers. My chlorine tabs i got at academy where we got the pool.
Contain: bacteriacide, algaecide, disinfectant, Sun protection.
I sure appreciate all the input! I covered yesterday morning and all at and night, now open and running filter. Chlorine is at 10 of course I can't get the best reading with this test kit.
 

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My chlorine tabs i got at academy where we got the pool.
Contain: bacteriacide, algaecide, disinfectant, Sun protection.

Chlorine does all of those things, but there are other chemicals that also can perform those functions. The tabs I bought that had extra junk in them listed the chemicals themselves. The chlorine in tabs is usually Trichlor–S-Triazinetrione (almost always stabilized with CYA) or Calcium hypochlorate, additional ingredients you don't want are clarifiers and non-chlorine algaecides or magic color speckles. LOL
 
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