Question about using the Taylor K-1725 kit

The algaecide is going to be another quaternary amine compound (either PolyQuat-60 or a linear quat). Those will interfere with the titration test same as Ahh-some. So you’ll have to do your loss rate analysis without heavily using those algaecides.

Yes, the Aquafinesse has a lot of sodium carbonate in them. You should muriatic acid for lowering pH, dry acid is bad for plaster pools (because of sulfates attacking the plaster).
 
An algacide is required with Baquacil. I’ll have to look around again at the wording in the label but one of their products I believe is a Poly60 labeled under a different name. You’ll want to use this one.

The dye we use in our formula is NOT Bromophenol Blue. The SDS sheet for the product can be seen at Home - Ahh-Some Water Cleanser for Your Pool, Hut Tub, Jet Bath, Swim Spa and Washing Machine in the product section for our Pool Clarifier & Bio-Cleaner.
 
Leebo,

Thanks. I just use the one at the bottom of this link... Algaecides
If one of the others would be preferable, let me know which one. I know at one point somebody (might have been here) suggested I use the "performance" algaecide instead. I'm not familiar with any other than what I've always used.
 
The dye we use in our formula is NOT Bromophenol Blue. The SDS sheet for the product can be seen at Home - Ahh-Some Water Cleanser for Your Pool, Hut Tub, Jet Bath, Swim Spa and Washing Machine in the product section for our Pool Clarifier & Bio-Cleaner.


Ahhsomeguy,

Thanks for adding this to what is quickly becoming a somewhat lengthy thread! If I understand the chemistry correctly, I believe the problem is not so much with whatever dye might be present in Ahhsome, but rather with the ADBAC quaternary compound that is in it. The ADBAC causes interference with the bromophenol blue that my Taylor kit uses in the reagent. The quats form the same complex that the Taylor dye does during the test.

Some good news, though, is that it seems the Ahhsome starts to dissipate to a lower ppm approximately a week after application thereby enabling me to do a titration and get a PHMB reading. So it appears I can continue to use Ahhsome and then just have to wait a bit until doing a biguanide test.
 
The main problem with Baquacil is this - infrequent dosing coupled with insufficient testing (strips or pool store). This causes both the sanitizer and oxidizer levels to be too low most of the time. Once that happens, pathogens get a foothold, biofilms form and you suffer through long periods of cloudy/slimy water.

Since you now have a decent test kit, you can do a more thorough job of tracking sanitizer and oxidizer levels over time thus enabling you to dose your pool properly. Just as in a chlorine pool, I’m willing to bet that both your sanitizer and oxidizer chemicals will need dosing more frequently than once per week. The same loss mechanisms that exist in a chlorine pool exist in a Baquacil pool -

1. UV extinction of the oxidizer
2. Oxidation of organics and bather waste
3. Pathogen inactivation

In a chlorine pool, #1 is the largest fraction of chlorine loss. In a Baquacil pool, UV will reduce the oxidizer (peroxide) level in much the same way. In a clean and clear chlorine pool, pathogen inactivation is the smallest contributor to chlorine loss. In a clean and clear Baquacil pool, loss of biguanide to sanitizing would also be minimal. It’s the oxidizer level that is going to be key.
 
Looking back the largest issue I personally had with a Baqua Pool was very likely a low Oxidizer level. At that time Baqua suggested dosing once per month at a rate of a gallon per 10,000 gallons. Looking back that meant the majority of the time there was no Oxidizer in the water killing the algae as it tried to take hold as most was consumed by the sun rapidly. We were simply relying on an algacide to do ALL of the work. I’m guessing you’ll see a simaliar trend once you get into things. I’m guessing you’ll see you’re needing to add more Oxidizer than in the past. As an added benefit, it’s “cheaper” when compared to the Sanitizer.
 
Leebo,

Absolutely correct. I recall those days as well - under the initial "Softswim" system - whereby you only added peroxide once a month. As you mentioned, assuredly the level was close to zero by the time you added the next dose. The baquacil peroxide label suggests a "maintenance" dose weekly (1 qt. / 10k gallons). My water looks great right now once it cleared up after opening the pool - very clear and no sign of any mold, etc. However, I've always found it's much easier to keep things going well when the water termp is only in the 70s like it is now with the cooler weather we're having. Once the water temp is in the mid-80s, that's when I've usually had more issues. Will try to really stay on top of the levels. I'm sure having to add more oxidizer than in the past is a given, but ultimately far less work in the long run than spending hours trying to brush up the white water mold that sometimes coats the entire sides and bottom.
 
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