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Thread: Another new user calcium question.

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    Join Date
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    Another new user calcium question.

    So, I found this forum while researching algae and staining problems a few weeks ago. I have learned much! Add me to the "pool-stored" list! (I hate going there, anyway) Bought tf-100 last week and tested yesterday.
    FC 5
    CC 0
    TC 5
    pH 7.3
    TA 60
    CH 180
    CH of tap for refill 120
    CYA 0-10?

    I have purchased washing soda for pH and TA and CYA (by sock) to add per the pool calculator. Will be going to bleach as recommended. Correct?
    Upon shopping for calcuim chloride, looking for deicer (as Schooled), found it's generally out of season. So, went to pool store and told as soon as I brought the overpriced packages to counter, that "you don't need that for that pool" because we have hard water (this gentleman sold the pool package to my parents). Told him the level was only 180 and I had read that I needed to get it up (recommended min. level 220 here?). "Well, I'll sell you anything, but once it's in you can't get it out..." he says nothing more. Anyway, I think I understand that increased calcuim will help prevent corrosion. I'm trying not to let this guy get to me, but he has me mildly concerned about adding the calcium. The refill source can't increase the Ca enough, can it? This is only the second season for this pool. Troubles popped up this year. I've skimmed a bit for answers before posting.
    Thank you for all of the wonderful info here!
    Rebecca
    26,400 gal IG fiberglass, sand filter, pentair single spd pump, have Nature2, but have realized it's problems(since reading here), ozonator, 3" puck feeder (again, understand problems)

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    Re: Another new user calcium question.

    Hello and welcome!

    Your pH, TA and CH are only a little below the recommendations. The CH in your fill water will gradually increase the CH in the pool over time. You can bring it up a little with calcium chloride if you want. It is true that once it's in, it stays in, and the only way to get it out is by draining water. But there's a fair amount of leeway on the high side.

    With a bit of CYA in there, you should be good to go.
    --paulr
    BBB "Intermediate Swimmer"
    IG plaster pool 18.5K gal, Hayward Pro-Grid DE filter, 3/4 HP Hydramax II; Polaris 380, 3/4 HP booster
    AG spa 325 gal, probably Sundance of some kind
    Water testing instructions on one page

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    In the Industry

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    Re: Another new user calcium question.

    will help prevent staining and corrosion

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Another new user calcium question.

    Hi Rebecca and welcome to the forum

    You are correct that the recommended level for CH min is 220 ( range 220 - 320) for fiberglass.
    Yep, the CH will help prevent cobalt spotting and staining.

    If you are adjusting CH, do it on a day that you are not adjusting anything else.

    Having a sand filter, you will likely be adding more CH over time as you backwash.

    I suggest you use baking soda and raise your TA to about 80.
    The baking soda will also raise the pH slightly.

    Like Paul said, you do need to get some CYA in your pool.

    Congrats on getting the TF100 test kit. You are on the way to a Trouble Free Pool
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

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    Re: Another new user calcium question.

    Thank you for the advise. I'll be working on the chemistry and studying up on the ascorbic acid treatment for stains, as well -vitamin C tabs lifted the test area stains.

    Rebecca
    26,400 gal IG fiberglass, sand filter, pentair single spd pump, have Nature2, but have realized it's problems(since reading here), ozonator, 3" puck feeder (again, understand problems)

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Another new user calcium question.

    Here's a link to the Ascorbic Acid Treatment: ascorbic-treatment-to-rid-pool-of-metal-stains-t2298.html (You can also locate it thru Pool School.)

    I just wanted to point out that Citric Acid can be used.

    Also, I found citric acid at my local health food store sold in appx. 1 lb. containers for $2.55 per pound.

    If I was going to do a treatment, I'd wait 'til my water temp and chlorine demand were lower. Just my .02
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Another new user calcium question.

    I agree with Joyce, wait until your swim season is over and do the stain treatment then.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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