Ever Blow Out Suspected Clogs Through the Valve Housing?

[BMeeley]

I'm determined to solve my main drain issues, and I'm due for valve maintenance anyway. So, my plan is to pull the guts from my three diverter valves, and while I have them open, build myself a little 2 in PVC elbow adaptor for my air compressor and try (once again) blowing the lines clear of debris and obstructions. Most of the lines seem fine but the main drain line has never drawn. The idea is stick the adaptor into the valve housing so the pressure is running back toward the pool on each line individually.

New pump for this season. And possible re-plumbing, as well. I'd prefer to be able to isolate the skimmers (together), the spa drain and the main drain on the suction side. I would prefer these modes over what I have (see pic below), especially as I work toward an automation system in the next season or two.

Anyone ever blow their lines clear this way? Any issues or concerns I'm not thinking of? I intend to ramp the pressure up from the tank regulator, rather than one big burst.

Also, new FNSP grids arrived yesterday! Gonna be a great season!

 

[Jimrahbe]

B,

When you select Main Drain only what happens? Does you pump starve for water???

Or is the problem that you just don't feel or notice that your main drain is working???

I ask because it is almost impossible to tell by feel or sight if a Main Drain is working..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[BMeeley]

It starves for water and loses prime. The valve arrangement does not allow main drain only. It's always Skimmer 1 + Main Drain, unless I go to the skimmer and use what I call the little monacle cap that slides over the intake.

Edit: The valve setup is also the reason I have not been successful blowing the main drain from the pump housing drain with the compressor and arranging the valves. Can't isolate the main drain.

 

[Vickery]

Air has low mass. What you need to do is direct sufficient mass with pressure to move the obstructions. CAREFULLY using water pressure will move more obstructions than air. Of course if you have too much pressure you can create other problems. On the other hand, vacuum from the other side of the main drain can pull obstructions out. That is actually how a plunger works - by pulling the obstruction in the drain line back far enough for water to help float and flow it away. I don't know how that might affect a hydraulic relief valve...someone might chime in on that.

 

[Hammond]

Did u try a Drain King? I was able to unclog mine with one, inserting into at the valve

 

[BMeeley]

I've tried Drain King on the skimmer lines, but not inserting at the valve. I will likely start with that to see if anything budges. How long did you leave yours in?

- - - Updated - - -

I'm not sure what you are referring to by "hydraulic relief valve." Could you elaborate a bit?

 

[Vickery]

I meant to say "hydrostatic". Brain cramps sometimes occur in the evening.

 

[BMeeley]

OK, so no joy on the main drain over the weekend. Installed new Pleatco DE grids and cleaned and serviced all of the diverter valves. Used the drain king on all lines. On the main drain, the drain king popped out twice. On the the third attempt, I tried ramping up the water pressure slowly, 1/4 turn at the spigot at a time, every 10 minutes or so. The drain king burst (the heavy duty rubber variety).

I didn't try the air compressor route, because I'd forgotten about the square-ish gate openings inside the valves and couldn't come up with an adapter configuration that would form a sufficient seal.

I also couldn't manage to get a snake past the second elbow in the line.

My current plan is to wait and figure out what I want to do about replacing the valves. The older Jandy, in particular, is pretty badly worn and I would like to reconfigure the valves so I can isolate the skimmers from the main drain (assuming I can get it cleared). When I cut the valves out, I will attempt the air compressor method using a 2 in sleeve as an adapter and see what I can do.