Opening pool this week and want to commit to TFPC method. Advice?

[coilerman]

I've had this pool for 10 years now and always just get it tested at the pool store and then buy their recommended chemicals. It's a 17,000 gallon plaster pool with spillover spa. We run a salt water chlorine generator. We are still hovering around 60-75F daytime highs so we won't turn the generator on until June.

I have the TF-100 test kit.

After removing the cover, is my first step to get the CYA between 70 and 80?

After that, I would refill until I get the water to skimmer level. At this point, should I SLAM the pool or start to vacuum to waste? We have a lot of trees and even with a cover, we get a lot of leaves in the pool over winter.

 

[RonsPlc]

I would start with a leaf rake, and manually get as many of the leaves out of the pool that I can while I brought the water level up. (Less organics = Less bleach needed)

This is the PERFECT time to Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain your pool. It will go faster with the colder water.
Then all you have to do is maintain your water so you are ready for swimming once the temp gets to where you like it. (Or you can't stand looking at the perfect water, and just HAVE to jump in).

 

[kellyfair]

Also, if you are going to SLAM, hold off on bumping CYA any higher than 30 or so.

 

[coilerman]

So clear leaves as much as possible and then bring PH down to 7.2-7.5 (mine is always high upon opening), bring CYA to 30-40, then SLAM?

What exactly does this mean: "CC is 0.5 or lower"? What is CC?

 

[cfherrman]

Combined clormines, it what smells in a pool, you test for them in your fas-dpd portion of your test kit

test your cya first to make sure it's not high but wait to add cya if it's necessary untill your pool is filled up.

 

[coilerman]

Just tested my CYA and it's at 0.

Since it's a 17,000 gallon pool, I calculate that I need 20.91 pounds of stabilizer to get to 30 ppm. Wow that's a lot of stabilizer. Does this sound right?

My local price is CAD$30 per 5.5 pounds so that's 4-5 packages.

 

[splashpad]

Just tested my CYA and it's at 0.

Since it's a 17,000 gallon pool, I calculate that I need 20.91 pounds of stabilizer to get to 30 ppm. Wow that's a lot of stabilizer. Does this sound right?

My local price is CAD$30 per 5.5 pounds so that's 4-5 packages.

I got 4 lbs for 17,000 in PoolMath (for Now/0 Goal/30)

- - - Updated - - -

Can you post a picture of your pool's current condition? (water clarity/etc)

Also a full set of test results (sample taken from at least elbow deep)

- - - Updated - - -

If you want to go the (more affordable, you're in control) TFP method, these are some good links (you'll want to ref frequently/as needed)
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry - specific water quality aspects we focus on
PoolMath - use for ALL chemical additions (also have an APP for Android & iOS for poolside additions)
[FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] - Simple chart for recommended levels
SLAM Process - What some need to do in the spring OR when switching to TFP care methods =)

 

[proavia]

I see you've been a member since 2008. Are the reagents in your TF-100 fresh? Are you storing the kit inside?

 

[coilerman]

I bought the TF-100 kit only 2 years ago. It's been stored indoors and I've only used the PH and FC tests. The CYA reagent was still sealed when I used it today.

PH is 7.0 (kind of surprising since I'm usually in the 7.8 range when I open)
FC is 0
CYA is 0

Let me know what other numbers you need.

Photo of pool is attached. I only peeled back a corner of the cover. It's pretty nasty.

 

[splashpad]

I bought the TF-100 kit only 2 years ago. It's been stored indoors and I've only used the PH and FC tests. The CYA reagent was still sealed when I used it today.

PH is 7.0 (kind of surprising since I'm usually in the 7.8 range when I open)
FC is 0
CYA is 0

Let me know what other numbers you need.

Photo of pool is attached. I only peeled back a corner of the cover. It's pretty nasty.

{pic}

It's not uncommon for PH to lower in still water =)

Can you do ALL of the tests. Then everyone can help you to move forward with your (impending) SLAM Process!

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Coilerman, could you please add your location to the information on the left? That really helps us as we'll know your climate, etc.

Thanks in advance

Maddie

 

[proavia]

Circulate the water (run the pump) for at least 30 minutes and then pull a water sample. Do all the tests and post results here.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

With FC at zero, you're going to want to add some liquid chlorine to get the level up quicker. Don't rely on the SWG to get the level up - SWG is great for maintaining FC level, just not that good to raise it a bunch.

2 year old reagent might be okay. If any of them are "thick" or gritty, they will need to be replaced. I believe the CYA reagent is the most stable.

 

[coilerman]

Here are the results.

FC: 0
CC: 0
pH: 8.2
TA: 50
CH: 150
CYA: 0

My location has been added.

 

[splashpad]

Here are the results.

FC: 0
CC: 0
pH: 8.2
TA: 50
CH: 150
CYA: 0

My location has been added.

Q) Do you have muriatic acid and are you ready to uncover/open the pool? (and possibly adjust your TA/CH for concrete pool) ~ Pool School - Recommended Levels)

1) You will need to reduce the PH before you proceed:

2) It will be a full SLAM Process procedure.
... You will need to stock up on Liquid Chlorine/Plain Bleach

3) You will also use PoolMath (or the app on your phone/device) A LOT! for making sure to add the correct dosage of liquid chlorine

 

[Mendy48]

Curious...does proavia need to bring her CYA up to 30 first, along with reducing her pH, before the full SLAM procedure.

 

[splashpad]

Q) Do you have muriatic acid and are you ready to uncover/open the pool?

1) You will need to reduce the PH before you proceed:

2) It will be a full SLAM Process procedure.
... You will need to stock up on Liquid Chlorine/Plain Bleach

3) You will also use PoolMath (or the app on your phone/device) A LOT! for making sure to add the correct dosage of liquid chlorine

Curious...does proavia need to bring her CYA up to 30 first, along with reducing her pH, before the full SLAM procedure.

Yes the PH needs to be reduced first, but NO on the CYA, until test results verify there is no ammonia

 

[Mendy48]

I'm learning here..have another questions...how can you verify that there is no ammonia? What test will show this?

 

[splashpad]

I'm learning here..have another questions...how can you verify that there is no ammonia? What test will show this?

Always ask questions! It's not a bad thing =)

The short version is, IF there is ammonia, FC will not register 15-30min after it's added

 

[Mendy48]

So while proavia is reducing the pH, proavia also has to add bleach to the pool and test for FC (15-30min after adding the bleach)? Trying to get a sense of how this works. I never thought of testing ammonia first..I always jumped to raising my CYA if it was low. This is good information for me.

 

[splashpad]

So while proavia is reducing her pH, proavia also has to add bleach to the pool and test for FC (15-30min after adding the bleach)?

Wait... who's proavia?

This is for coilerman
No, the muriatic acid (per PoolMath dosage for their pool size, to reduce ph from 8.2 to 7.4) with the pump running will go in first, then the PH will be rechecked in 1 hour. NO chlorine will be added

But for a concrete pool the TA & CH levels need to be addressed as well.