Automation failing - fix or replace?

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brian4110

brian4110

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LifeTime Supporter
May 7, 2013
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Pennsylvania
The Compool (CP3800) automation for my pool spa combo is getting wonky and I'm wondering if there is a quick fix or is it more economical to just replace.

The issue is that I can't trust the compool to run the schedule so I am stuck leaving the system in service mode (operated only at the poolside panel and not the wired remote). When I let the programmed schedule run, it will inevitably go haywire. Several times I have woken up in the morning to find the pool is in some crazy configuration and the wired remote control panel in my kitchen displays some funky message. I can't trust it because it has the potential to run the pump while dry.

My question is this... should I attempt to repair the current system (what should I investigate first?) or should I go ahead and replace. If I should replace, is the "Compool Upgrade to EasyTouch" kit a good choice and can someone with reasonable DIY skills do that upgrade?

This is the kit: Compool Upgrade EasyTouch Pentair 521107 | PoolSupply4Less

Thanks!
 
Brian,

I would jump on the upgrade kit... We have several members that have done this upgrade and it seems to work well...

Suggest you use the search box in the upper right of your screen and read some of their posts.

If I understand correctly, the remote panels will no longer work after the upgrade, so your will either need to buy new remotes or add Screenlogic2

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
Happy to report back...

Short story - If you are on the fence about purchasing the kit, go for it!

The kit arrived Saturday. I prepped by shutting off power to the equipment pad at the main breaker. I was replacing an LX3800 controller board that stopped working well with my remote station with the new Pentair upgrade board. I was able to reuse my existing transformer (YMMV). 1 screw is all it takes to open the old panel. Opened it up, cleaned out the spiders, and was surprised it looked in pretty good shape...brand new even. Took a photo of the panel while it was still wired. Took some tape and a sharpie and labelled all of the wires. Referenced the new board schematic to see where the wires would go. Noticed that the heater wire was going to be a bit short as the location for those wires on the new board is nearer the top. Started carefully disconnecting. Once everything was disconnected, I removed the LX3800. Slid the new panel onto the hinge and started re-wiring. Most of the wires can be re-used and just snapped back into place. I did have to splice an extension onto the heater wire and you'll have to replace the temp sensors...not a big deal. For me this also required widening the hole in the PVC for the water temp sensor. Once everything was hooked back up, I turned on the juice and to my surprise everything just 'worked'. When does that ever happen with a DIY? :p

Start to finish, about 45 minutes. The hardest part was sliding the new panel onto the hinge as I had to temporarily take the transformer out to create a bit more clearance. I take that back... the hardest part was figuring out the programming because the manual is terrible. But still, that's not bad if you have experience with automation.

So there you have it... go out and get the upgrade kit. If this dummy can install it himself, so can you! My next step is to pick up the ScreenLogic and hook it up to Alexa!
 
Brian,

Great job and review....

I have ScreenLogic and love it.. If you use your PC, it makes programming about 10 x easier.... It works ok from a phone or tablet, just much clunker for programming..

I do not have Alexa, so would also love your feedback on how that integration goes...

Thanks again,

Jim R.
 
Jim,

Hope you don't mind if I ask a question before I go ahead and order the ScreenLogic 2. The Amazon reviews complain about the wireless capabilities. One review said they had to put the unit near a window. I have a pretty robust home wireless network, but I was wondering if you've had any connection problems with it? Personally, I always prefer wired over wireless, even though wireless is getting better all the time.
 
Brian,

My system is hardwired... Basically the EasyTouch needs to be able to talk to a "Protocol Adapter"... The link between the ET and the Protocol adapter can be either a 4 wire cable OR the wireless link that is included in the kit..

The kit you need is P/N 522104...

The plus side to hardwired is no wireless to screw with.. The downside is that in my case, a nearby lightning strike come in on the hardwire and took out the protocol adapter, a router and several Ethernet units connected to the router...

The ET is about 20 feet from my PC at most, so if I used the wireless link, I doubt I would have any issues.. Because of the lightning strike I plan on installing the wireless set up, but so far I have just been too lazy...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jim,

I guess I'm confused! How does the wireless connection kit (p/n 522104) work with a hardwire setup? What was your setup? Did you have the indoor panel (p/n 520549)?

I've got the Ethernet already in place as the system I'm replacing had a remote panel installed in the kitchen connected via Cat5. I'd love to reuse that. If I have the PC app, I don't have a need for an indoor control panel too. What do I need to purchase to get the Screenlogic app running?

Sorry about the lightning strike. Amazing what a strike will target...usually the most expensive item in the circuit!
 
Brian,

If you look back at my post #2, I said that I did not believe that the original indoor controls would work after your upgrade.. So, did you buy a new control panel or are you planning on using ScreenLogic2??? Or both???

These are two different systems that both can be used at the same time.. they both can be wired or use an RF link... they would have separate RF links, different antenna and receivers..

ScreenLogic2 is basically a computer program that allows your PC, Tablet or Phone to "talk" to your Automation... Instead of pushing a button on a remote control, you push an icon on your PC, tablet or phone..

The kit (p/n 522104) has everything you need to get ScreenLogic up and running...

Thanks,

Jim R.

- - - Updated - - -

I could be wrong that your old remotes won't work.... so try them if you want.. I just did not want it to come as a surprise if they didn't..
 

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Jim,

I actually understood that the original indoor controls would have to be replaced. My confusion was regarding how the protocol adapter came into play and how it was connected to the system. I think I got it now though. Maybe?

From what I can tell, I can connect the protocol adapter directly to the EasyTouch via the existing Cat5 cable that runs between my kitchen wall and my equipment pad. (This cable was used by my old indoor control panel.) Then I can run another Cat5 from the protocol adapter to my router to connect to my network and enable the ScreenLogic app.

A couple of things that were sources of confusion... a lot of the posts (and the manual) talks about the 4 wire connection between the EasyTouch and the protocol adapter. That's just ethernet/cat5 cable, right? Also...the term 'protocol adapter' itself was confusing me because it sounded like Star Trek technobabble until I realized it's just a 'translator' of sorts needed to translate the proprietary Pentair signals to something the app can use via your network.

Please correct anything that is wrong!

Thanks!
 
Brian,

They don't use Cat 5 cable because the wires are so small. They call out 22 AWG wires... But, if the distance is not too far, I would think it should work fine.. It can't hurt to try it.. Seems to me that if the old wired remotes worked, then the Protocol adapter should work..

Yes, the Protocol Adapter speaks "Pentair" on one end and Ethernet on the other end... As you point out it is a "translator"...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Finally decided to just go wireless and order the wireless connection kit for the ScreenLogic2. I think this will make everyone (ie wife and daughter) happy.
I may try to use my old cat5 wire to pull that 4 wire 22 AWG needed for the indoor control panel. Otherwise, I'll just fix the hole in the wall where the old panel used to be.

Thanks for all of the advice!
 
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