New Build - Setting Contract - Assistance with Decisions

Just joined the forum - found it while searching for ideas on a new pool build. Have met with several builders and made a selection. Finalizing paperwork next week. Details of the rough estimate are below - so anything you can point out we should reconsider, please let me know. Also, we are considering Corallock (or even Shellock) artistic pavers. See: Steplock Corallock Pavers for Pedestrian applications, Pool Pavers, Patios, Walkways - Artistic Paver Mfg. We do not have a big deck area and wanted something different than travertine. We are also going with salt water, and thought with the salt water (both in the pool and we are near intracoastal and ocean) we thought it would wear well. Any insight on its durability and maintenance would be great too! Thanks!!!


  • Permit and engineered plans
  • Small machine dig and haul
  • 76 Lnft pool/10’ wide by 28’ long/3’ to 5’deep- up to 20 Lnft of steps, 2” or greater plumbing throughout pool
  • 12” bond beam for placement of 16x16 coping
  • Bench along shallow end wall with 2 therapy jets
  • Steel reinforced high strength 6” thick gunite(concrete) wall
  • Use of compactor and water to backfill around pool structure
  • Swim-out bench with tiled edge in deep end of pool
  • 3 directional returns
  • Wide mouth skimmer with tiled throat
  • Channel drain or dual main drains with required flow rates per Florida building code
  • Dedicated vacuum line with adjustable valve and safety vacuum lock for automatic pool cleaner
  • Automatic overflow line
  • 16x16 square edge Corallock coping and standard 6” waterline tile
  • 1 LED color light
  • Hayward 1-1.65 HP MaxFlo VS Variable speed Energy efficient pump
  • Hayward C150S filter
  • Hayward Aquarite 25,000 gallon salt chlorination system
  • Equipotential bonding wire per Florida building code
  • 550 sqft of 16x16 Corallock concrete pavers(many sizes and color choices)
  • Electrical hook-up-electrical panel with built in timer and breakers. Light switch in patio area.
  • Standard Florida Stucco Florida Gem Quartz plaster finish
  • Lifetime structural warranty on pool shell
  • 10 year warranty on plaster
  • 1 year warranty on pool
  • 3 year warranty on Hayward equipment
  • Brush, pole and net
  • Initial chemical balance and pool instruction
 
Did they show you a CAD model / digital design? If so, they should have a volumn estimate.

Based on 10x28 and 4 foot average depth. That would be about 8000 gallons so the filter and SWG are properly sized.
 
There it is! Two things I would change is to move the bench from the end of the shallow end to the side by the house. That will open up the "swim lane". I would change the 3' depth to at least 3.5' as you cannot do a good crawl stroke in 3'. Make sure it is water depth aka from floor to the middle of the skimmer face. This will also lessen the slope from the shallow to the deeper end.

Kim:kim:
 
- - - Updated - - -

Contract signed. Signature here updated. Waiting for CAD and permits. Decisions left to make ...at least for now...are deck and waterline tile. Asking PB to see shellock and corallock in existing residential application. Just cannot decide. Like the look of Artistuc paver Corallock better but concerned with mildew potential and maintenance. Tried searching form for this product, especially photo’s of both - doesn’t seem to be popular, but maybe I’m not looking in right place.

Really undecided about waterline tile too. Really like look of glass or smaller mosaic look tiles but lingering trauma from my childhood of spending hours in my family pool with a mini wire brush cleaning the tile/grout before I could have fun sticks firmly in my head. Really need help with picking a low maintenance yet modern looking tile.

There is a reason for the bench to be on that side - we are more the lounge versus lap type, and don’t have a lot of space to work with. We will be installing a Tiki hut on that end and we want to be able to sit on the bench with the jets and a cool drink to watch football from a TV under the tiki :cool:

- - - Updated - - -

Contract signed. Signature here updated. Waiting for CAD and permits. Decisions left to make ...at least for now...are deck and waterline tile. Asking PB to see shellock and corallock in existing residential application. Just cannot decide. Like the look of Artistuc paver Corallock better but concerned with mildew potential and maintenance. Tried searching form for this product, especially photo’s of both - doesn’t seem to be popular, but maybe I’m not looking in right place.

Really undecided about waterline tile too. Really like look of glass or smaller mosaic look tiles but lingering trauma from my childhood of spending hours in my family pool with a mini wire brush cleaning the tile/grout before I could have fun sticks firmly in my head. Really need help with picking a low maintenance yet modern looking tile.
 
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Well then the bench stays right where it is!!

Did you re think the 3' depth? I want you to measure where 3' hits you and know that is where the water will hit you in that area. Go from there. If you like it then all is good!

When do you think the work will start?

Waterline tile-If you follow TFP recommended water balance levels you should not have much work to do on the tiles. I hear you on your memories from days gone by! BUT they did not manage their water the TFP way. If you still want to go with a easier to clean tile then find the kind that is glossy. Ceramic tile with a glossy. Glass tile will be smaller 1x1 or 1x2 (my fav) will also be easier to clean but there is more grout to think about. Again if you maintain your water the TFP way it should not be an issue. Do what your head can live with LOL

Kim:kim:
 
We have about 6 weeks for permitting so need to finalize depth sooner than later. Construction is probably 6-8 weeks out, then est 10weeks construction. Thinking 3 ft my be ok. It will transition the 3.5 pretty quick. It may also be ok for water games, elderly or really little kids. PB told us we may have to add another step if we go 3.5 and prefer not to do that.

Thanks for for the tile insight. We really like the glass, it’s a small pool and a little bling would be nice. I do have a 12 year old and can pass on my childhood memory of tile cleaning to him as a chore :)
 
Most Pool Contracts measure depth from the top of bond beam. So if you want 3 1/2' of water that would be about 3' 9" depth from top of beam and 5' 3" in the deep end. Also you can designate your transition with a side profile of pool based on your specifications.

I would opt for a full 'Equipotential Grid' 3' X 100' and not just a minimum single wire with deck paving connected at four points to the steel cage. You can order online and have delivered to avoid mark up by your contractor and place under your sand base and also connect to the four points.. A single wire only mitigates voltage spikes by 25% which can still stop your heart within 1' of beam ( no protection outside of that). A grid gives you full protection from stray voltage spikes. People forget the 'National Electrical Code' is only the minimum requirement. Many 'State Municipalities' around the US are already independent adopting the full grid requirement (coming back in the 2020 NEC code).

What is the definition of high strength gunite? 6" width is a minimal wall requirement with up to 9" in the cove areas (12" beam). I would designate no gunite rebound around skimmer, transition and in step areas. That should be all virgin material for maximum strength. Have the rebound hauled away and off your job site. A lot of pools crack in Florida due to this type of shoddy workmanship. Check the steel plan. You should have 4 #4's (1/2") steel in the beam and the rest of the structure #3's (3/8") minimum 12" X 12" OC for your depth's. This is just my humble advice. I am an old school guy when it comes to pool construction.

When it comes to your pool be informed and don't accept anything less. Good luck!!
 
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