Very new to pools

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Seanchai

0
Apr 20, 2018
9
Stielacoom, WA
So, I have zero experience and know I am a ways off to asking more pointed questions to resolve my issues, so I would appreciate some general guidance to get me started in the right direction. Here is my situation.

Just started to manage an apartment in Washington. The pool had been down for 3 years. It was full of algae and debris but I have managed to clean up that aspect. The water is currently blue, but a moderate to strong smell of chlorine. The test kit on the premises is giving me results I don't fully understand. For instance, PH test comes out as yellow, not reddish. When I add the chemical to find the acid level, I get no pink coloring after 20 drops. Chlorine test is barely yellow, but there is a noticeable chlorine smell. The pool looks nice as far as water color, a clear blue, although the past week something (I'm new to the Pacific Northwest) pollinated the grounds with a thick layer of yellow pollen. I vacuumed the pool and for the most part looks nice. I just added close to a pound of PH up, but then I started second guessing myself and thought I best get better educated on pool maintenance.

Additional information - lots of rain past week or two. Initial PH before rain was around 6.5. Owner did a heavy shock with these 1 lb bags, not sure what type, 5lbs worth about 10 days ago. Maybe 3 lbs were added since and 2 oz of clarifier. No algae present.

So, where is a good place for me to begin to get all these test levels where they need to be? I would like to get the pool inspected next week if possible.

Thank you
 
Welcome to TFP!!:handwave:

I'm headed out the door to dinner and I'm sure others will drop in quickly. I just wanted to point out a couple of things off my head.

First, the test kit you are using is how might I say "primitive". Talking about pH and a "yellow" chlorine test tells me it is a OTO test kit; probably a basic 4 or 5 way kit. The first thing you need to do is to upgrade your test kit (more about that below).

I'll talk about some reading material below, but unless you are using liquid chlorine stop adding any chemicals to the pool. Solid forms of chlorine ("shock" & tabs) and "magic" pol store potions to eliminate algae do more harm than good.

Resist taking a sample of water down to the pool store as they generally (there are some good ones out there, but very few) only try to sell you something.

I will tell you, it didn't turn green overnight and it will take time to clear. But, we can teach you how to get it sparkling and keep it that way for a lot less money than the pool store.

So, not much credence is given to pool store testing around here. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing. But, what can you do?? We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit as I said before. Order a TF100 and at least include the XL option. That will give you what you need while you are clearing the pool, and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.

The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want. Even then it is a little short on the reagent & powder for the FAS/DPD test.

I also have the SpeedStir and Sample Sizer. They speed testing and accuracy.

While you wait for it to get delivered, you have a homework reading assignment (see, I told you there would be reading). Start with ABCs of Water Chemistry and Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis

I will also point out to check local health department regulations. As in many areas your pool would be classified as a commercial pool you need to know what the local regulations are.
 
Thanks for the reply.

I'll have to figure something out for the test kit as I am limited to purchases through Wilmar or HD Supply. Those are the accounts the corporation has setup for us to use. There are two test kits here, both Taylor. I just found a larger one and looked it up. It's a DPD Test Kit Complete by Taylor.
https://www.wilmar.com/Sku/99-5570/dpd-test-kit-complete-840036004302-k-2005
So, I am limited at the moment. I can ask for approval for a special order but that will take some time and I would have to have an explanation. Is it possible to do something in the interim with what I have?

I am currently algae free I believe. Or at least the water has been blue and clear for almost 2 weeks without incident. The water actually looks nice except for a slight cloudiness which I believe to be the ton of pollen blowing around here.

I read the ABCs of water chemistry before this post. It made me realize just how much I was floundering. Thus my original post.

I just read the turning the green swamp article, and think I am past that point hopefully. Seems to be. I was cleaning my filters daily for a week or so and now once a week but they honestly look decent when I clean them and the pressure hasn't risen above 20%.

Yes this pool will be classified as commercial. I called the city of Steilacoom as they will be licensing the pool use and the inspector told me to get the water clean and give him a call and he would come out to inspect. That was about all he would say. So I will have to wait for his input. He did tell me that because this pool was built in 1974 that only the laws from that period would be applicable.

There are chlorine tablets in the skimmer basket, but beyond that I am not adding anything further.
 
Well, I'm gald I didn't scare you away with my long rambling post.

The photo of the pool looks nice, but it and one thing you said over and over stands out - "strong smell of chlorine".

Fifst, while the photo does look nice, while it may be the angle taken it still looks very "dull" to me. A pool using our methods appears very "shiny", with crystal clear water. The test to see if the water is "clear" is to toss a quarter in the deep end. If a person with normal vision can see heads or tales you are clear.

As to the "strong smell of chlorine". In our pool school article Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry you will see the description of CC - Combined Chlorine:

Combined chlorine is an intermediate breakdown product created in the process of sanitizing the pool. CC causes the "chlorine" smell many people associate with chlorine pools. If CC is above 0.5ppm, you should SLAM your pool. CC indicates that there is something in the water that the FC is in the process of breaking down. In an outdoor pool, CC will normally stay at or near zero as long as you maintain an appropriate FC level and the pool gets some direct sunlight.
Click to expand...

So, you have a strong chlorine smell which is a symptom that the pool has a way to go. People don't understand that that chlorine smell is not a good thing, it is a "clue" that something bad is happening in the water.

So, "dull" water and "strong smell of chlorine" are both clues that you need to work on the water more. But, to do the work properly you need the FAS/DPD test kit.

So, you want these things from HD Supply: Taylor Pool Test Kit K2005C

Taylor DPD Test Powder, 10 Gram

FAS-DPD Reagent, 2 Ounce

Wala - we have taken a K-2005C test kit and turned it into the K2006C by adding the FAS/DPD individual test

Does that work??

Now, if you can get away with it, double up on the last two items. Clearing up a pool takes a lot of tests and those last two will be used quickly.

You still need to find out if Washington State or a local jurisdiction regulates your pool. IF it is regulated, this appears to be the standards you are required to follow: WAC 246-260-999: Appendix A—Water quality standards.


The key points I see are:

Chlorine - Never lower than 1.5 (2.0 is there is CYA in the water) and never higher than 10

ph between 7.2 - 8.0

CYA never higher than 90

CC can not exceed 50% of FC (with the smell, I'm betting you are over this one right now)

Additionally, at the bottom of the page are the "Required Ranges of Accuracy and Incremental Readings for Field Test Kits". For chlorine it says: "These increments are required to be on the test kit: 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 3, 5, 6, 10 ppm". I'm betting that the kit you have does not test all those ranges. While the K-2005 listed above goes to 10 in FC testing, it does not give you all the specified readings, so you need the extra FAS/DPD products I listed.
 
Thanks. Yes it is dull. I doubt I could see a quarter at the bottom on the deep end. I ordered the chemicals you listed and printed the state water quality chart. So should be good to go in a couple days depending on delivery. Is there anything I can do in the meantime or sit tight until those come in?
 
That is a good target...a quarter. I use my main drain screws as a visual test (similar coloring to a quarter). When I open and get things going, once I can see the screws I know I'm in good shape.
 

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Thanks Dean. That was a figure the owner gave me and I didn't even think to question it. I did the math myself and think he figured cubic feet. I believe it is around 12k gallons. The pool is 7' deep by 14' wide on one end and 3' deep by 14' wide on the other. The conjoining slope is 3' length X 10' Wide and depth slopes between the two. The cylinders would overlap there so not really sure how to calculate that. Does 12k gallons sound about right?
 
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