8.25% or 7.86%

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tweet737

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Nov 27, 2017
15
Conroe, Texas
I am new to testing my own pool levels. I purchased the Taylor K-2006c per forum advice. I am also using the Pool Math app to record my levels and follow it's directions for correcting those levels.

Question 1: What is the best way to use the app? Should I start by adding a new log and letting it populate my values to overview?

Question 2: The bleach that seems easiest to obtain is listed as 8.25% Sodium Hypochlorite which yields 7.86% "Available Chlorine." When I enter what kind of sanitizer I am using should I list 8.25% or 7.86% bleach in the Pool Math app?
 
1. Once you set up your pool in the app (settings, upper right of screen) you touch the + sign in the lower right to add a new set of tests.

2. It is 8.25%.

Take care.
 
Thanks for a quick response. My K-2006C did not include R-0630 and R-0718 for salt testing, but has instructions on the label. The pool math app does not have a place to record this as well. Will I want to obtain those reagents and start watching this? I have a SWG but it's inoperative so I'm just controlling levels per the guidance on this forum.

My CH is currently 200 with a target of 270. Is this something I will want to correct in the off-season while I'm not using the pool (but occasionally use the spa which is the same water)? If so, is there a reason to choose Calcium Chloride over Calcium Chloride Dihydrate to correct it?

Thanks again
 
Salt testing is a good idea if you have a SWCG and you have significant water dilution due to rain.

A CH of 200 with a gunite pool is on the low side. What is the CH of your fill water? If it is very low, then you may want to raise your CH using calcium chloride. If your fill water CH is high, it will rise naturally due to evaporation.

I do not think there is a difference between calcium chloride and calcium chloride dihydrate, except that the latter has less calcium chloride per volume.

Take care.
 
It is best to add your chlorine and acid slowly at the return with the pump running. Space out the individual chemical additions by 30 minutes.

Do not add to the skimmer directly. You are putting a concentrated slug of the chemical through your pump, filter, and SWCG. Not a good idea.

Hard - depends. Your water supplier must report an annual water quality report. Normally on their website.

Check for hardness or grains per gallon.

Take care.
 
I read somewhere a specific location to add bleach/acid. Now I can't find it.
Click to expand...
Here you go: Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals. :)

Here in San Antonio, the water is fairly hard, so I usually allow my fill water to bring my CH up if it's a bit low. I'll sometimes compensate by letting my TA and pH rise a little to off-set the low CH while keeping the CSI level in a good place. Curious above you said your goal was 270. The TFP Pool School - Recommended Levels shows a minimum of 350 for your plaster/SWG pool. Maybe I'm missing something? :confused: Wouldn't be the first time. ha.
 
Thanks Marty. I misunderstood "return" to mean where water goes back through system. To make sure I understand, the return in this case is the port where water is being supplied to my pool, so I just add chemicals to the pool above one of those locations?

TX Splash...The 270 target CH was calculated from the Pool Math app.
 
At the point the water is returned to the pool. The skimmer is at the suction side.

Your CH range in the app is based on your pool type selected in the settings of the app. Be sure you have selected the correct one.
 

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