Outdoor Kitchen Planning

Sep 11, 2017
5
Richmond, VA
I'm into the early stages of my outdoor kitchen planning, and have done quite a bit of searching and reading. Unfortunately, most pictures are lost on here since they've expired on photobucket etc. so you kind of lose alot in translation.

I see a couple common themes though, that I have a couple questions about...

1. Almost everyone appears to use Trex under there outdoor kitchen to keep it elevated. I love this idea, but my question is how are people shimming that level? Obviously using cheap little wood shims won't work cause they ultimately deteriorate with weather. So how are people leveling off there trex underneath there outdoor kitchens?

2. So everyone puts stainless steel doors in their outdoor kitchen. That's kind of a given, but what does it look like inside of there. is the inner cabinet itself just made of the cement board? How are you all actually doing the enclosure itself?

3. Similar question to 2, but how are you all doing the built in grillhead? Is the grillhead just slotted in up against cement board? or what does it actually look like before the grillhead is inserted?

Thanks!
 
1. Yes you want some type of barrier between the ground and framing (whether it's metal or wood frame). A composit deck material works great for this. You can buy composit shims and level under or do what I did and level the top by cutting the supports to different heights.

Some of the islands I've seen use metal framing around the grill and pressure treated wood for the rest of it. If you have a local metal shop near by you may be able to get them to weld a frame from 1" square steel.

2. You don't need to use stainless doors. I've been looking for other ideas and some people use cabinet doors. I guess it lbs dependent on the look you want and the kitchen is protected from the elements. I saw one the other day that had a recessed shelf built in with no doors on it. As for the inside I left mine unfinished. Basically just cement board on the outside. Saves on materials and cost. And if you want to change things. In the future (add more electric, plumbing...) makes it easier.

3. Depends on the grill. Is it a drop in(rests on countertop) or does it rest on the frame. Some grills have catch pans that need access to them others can sit directly on cement board. Just remember cement board isn't structural so you need to have good framing underneath it.


Use google images to find more but here are a few pictures
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Hey SpringPool - Thanks for the responses! I plan on doing the whole thing with metal studs. I have a supply store that sells 20 ga for .44 a linear foot, and I can't even barely get pressure treated for that so it seems like a no brainer? I was just going to use self tapping screws to put the whole frame together.

My setup won't be covered in any way shape or form from the elements, so I'm trying to stick with stainless steel and everything as waterproof as I can get.
 
You can seal the seams with a waterproof membrane to help out. Either paint on or a Kerdi strip (SCHLUTER KERDI-BAND - 5 - - Amazon.com). Home Depot may sell it locally as well.

I used self tapping screws as well. One thing I found is when bending the studs is to use a straight edge (piece of plywood or edge of workbench) to get a clean bend. I had several where I ended up using a hammer to level the framing.
 
Yea I need to go buy some metal studs. I still don't fully understand how they go together and how you cut them. Based off of what you just said it sounds like you cut down the seem and then folded the three pieces back? You used just a metal sheer to do the cuts?
 
Question for anyone who set there island on trex. Did you use concrete anchors to anchor down the trex and track? Or is everything just free floating?

I let it float since it was on a covered patio and in the corner. The weight of the cement board, tile and granite made it so heavy it wasn't moving anywhere.

You could built the frame and add the cement board. If at that point you think it needs to be secured rent/borrow/buy a powder actuated hammer and sink some nails into the concrete.

Powder Actuated Tools & Accessories - Power Tools - The Home Depot
 

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one thing regarding the grill. i don't know what brand you are using but weber recommends having the grill on site while building the framing cause their grills fluctuate somewhat in size so that you have exact fitting cause of how their kits makes the grill look built in. i'm thinking it's also because everyone uses different natural materials at times which have variations. example my kitchen will be all masonry. brick faced and my bricks are jumbos which vary a lot in thickness vs a clean straight brick. also stone veneer (lick em' and stick em's) vary in thicknesses to have a more natural look.

just throwing that out there. My plan was to have all stainless steel doors/ components on hand also cause of that fact regarding the grill.

jim
 
Question for anyone who set there island on trex. Did you use concrete anchors to anchor down the trex and track? Or is everything just free floating?

Hello, since my island was built on sloped concrete. I used like 6 or 7 concrete anchors to hold the island down. I didn't want to take the risk of it ever moving off of the plastic shims.

Mark
 

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I've almost finished my island build -- just waiting for a couple of nice days to add the stone veneer. Couple of thoughts:

- Make sure you build it on site. Mine is steel frame/hardiboard on trex, like yours and several others on here, but I tried to be cute and built it in several "modules" in my level basement, then transfer each module out to my patio. My patio, however, slopes about 1" per 5'. I had a heck of a time shimming it up level under the support studs and getting everything to fit together as it should. Would have been much easier if I had built it on the deck from the outset. Ended up making custom shims out of trex and attaching them to the bottom of the modules. Mine wraps around my pavilion posts, so I didn't need to attach it to the deck, but it's so heavy it wouldn't go anywhere anyway.

- I used stainless doors/drawers. Inside is just the framing, studs and inside of hardiboard, nothing fancy. My grill rests on my counter, supported by ample studs, and the underside is open to the cabinet below.

- I used tape and mortar to seal the seams. Made everything real solid. Then I waterproofed with redguard.

- Where are you putting your propane tank? Really not supposed to put it under the grill; should be in a separate cabinet separated with a plenum wall. Make sure you plan for plenty of vents as well.

- To cut the studs, I used the method of scoring the top, cutting the sides with snips, then bending the stud until it snaps. Quick and easy, but not as precise as using a chop saw with a metal blade. Like a previous poster, I too had to use a hammer to level a couple of spots.

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