Ready to SLAM

mattsmith321

0
Bronze Supporter
Jul 20, 2017
40
Austin
Hi everyone,

We are about a month in with our pool. The first three weeks or so everything was great and the water was somehow staying clear even though we hadn't added anything to it and we were only running the SWCG. And then we got a 1.5" rain last week and things have gone crazy. It was then that I realized that I was supposed to be doing more to balance the chemicals. So off to the local pool supply store. I'll bet you already know where this is going.

Their Test Strips showed that I was had low pH and low CYA. So I purchased some Soda Ash and Conditioner/Stabilizer to bring those levels back to normal.

Then I went away for three days and came back to this (my wife or kids tried to vacuum it) on Thu, 8/17 @ 3pm:
IMG_6730.jpg

So then I went ahead and tried to finish vacuuming it but because it is a sucky (not sucky?) pump, it got frustrating so I ended up with this at 4pm:
IMG_6731.jpg

Then I finally clued into the fact that I needed help and figured out that the local pool supply store could test my water and provide guidance on what I should do.

Test results on Thu, 8/17 @ 3:30pm:
FAC - 0
TAC - 0
Salt - 1800
CH - 200
CYA - 40
TA - 110
pH - 7.8
Copper - 0
Iron - 0
Pho - 300

So I bought Power Powder Plus shock and Perfect Weekly for phosphates (I know, I know. I'm smarter now two days later). I added 8oz shock Thu afternoon. Then 1 cap Perfect Weekly and 20lbs of Salt on Fri afternoon.

Test results on Sat, 8/19 @ 10:30am:
FAC - 0
TAC - 0
Salt - 3200
CH - 100
CYA - 50
TA - 90
pH - 7.8
Copper - 0TF‑100 Trouble Free Pool Test Kit ‑ FAS‑DPD Test Kit
Iron - 0
Pho - 750

So I bought a 15lb container of Hardness Plus to raise my Calcium Hardness. I told her I would come back after four hours to get my water tested again to see if the system said I could go ahead and start the shock.

Here is the water on Sat, 8/19 @ 2:30pm:
IMG_6758.JPG

But I'm not going anywhere until I get some advice from the experienced folks here on TFP. Specifically on the SLAM method.

Obviously, FAC = 0 is a problem. I get how I didn't know that the algae is consuming the chlorine but one would think they might get a little more guidance from the local pool supply store experts on how to overcome that level. If I had gone back, the advice was going to be buy a bottle of Green Clean and add the remaining 8oz of Power Powder Plus and come back in a few days. Argh! I can see why there is a bias against the local pool supply store experts here.

So, I would like to skip my local pool supply store experts and learn to SLAM my pool. From the SLAM page and the INYO video, I believe the first step is to raise my CYA to 70-80 based on the Chlorine / CYA Chart. Correct?

And it appears I need to invest in the TF‑100 FAS‑DPD Test Kit (with the XL option). Am I stuck until I receive that kit? I'm sure that will take a few days and then I'm out of town again on Wed/Thu. I really don't want to just let it sit for a week.

Thanks in advance for the assistance. Looking forward to working with everyone.

Matt
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

No, you do not want to raise the CYA for the SLAM Process process. Need to verify this level with your test kit.
Yes, you need the test kit before you can properly start the SLAM.

It would be safe to add 1 bottle of bleach every day until you get the kit.

BTW, don't pay too much attention to the INYO video ... there are a few inaccuracies in it.

FYI, there was no reason to add any CH to your vinyl pool ... thank your pool store for wasting your money ;)
 
Not only was the calcium a waste of money..... didcha notice how the pool store test says his phosphates were *higher* after he used the "Phosphate Potion" they sold him?? Its crazy how random the test results can be!!

Yup... add a 1/2 gallon of bleach daily and brush while you wait for the test kit to arrive. Did you also treat yourself to a Speed Stir? It helps speed up testing.

Maddie :flower:
 
No, you do not want to raise the CYA for the SLAM Process process. Need to verify this level with your test kit.
Yes, you need the test kit before you can properly start the SLAM.

That was one thing that was often confusing while research SLAM. Some spots seemed to say don't raise CYA since it inhibits the chlorine, but others seem to say that it should be raised to the range on the chart. I will follow your recommendation since you have seen my numbers.

It would be safe to add 1 bottle of bleach every day until you get the kit.

Good to know. I will go get some Chlorox from the local grocery store (since I don't have much desire to give my pool store any more money right now). That's okay, right?

FYI, there was no reason to add any CH to your vinyl pool ... thank your pool store for wasting your money ;)

Don't forget about the "Phosphate Potion" that was almost $50 for the bottle. Annoying.

- - - Updated - - -

Did you also treat yourself to a Speed Stir? It helps speed up testing.

I just ordered my test kit and I did add the Speed Stir! I figure with all the money I've thrown at this thing so far, no reason to cheap out now. ;)

Thanks for the advice. I will update when I start the SLAM later next week.
 
Walmart Great Value bleach (8.25%; non scented, non splashless) is usually the best price. Otherwise look for Liquid Chlorine or Pool Shock, both still bleach but higher concentration.
 
Walmart Great Value bleach (8.25%; non scented, non splashless) is usually the best price. Otherwise look for Liquid Chlorine or Pool Shock, both still bleach but higher concentration.

Thanks for this bit of specific advice. I actually walked out of the grocery store because Clorox @ 6% didn't seem right. So I got your reply and went to Walmart. The Great Value is $1 cheaper per ~gallon.

It would be safe to add 1 bottle of bleach every day until you get the kit.

Yup... add a 1/2 gallon of bleach daily and brush while you wait for the test kit to arrive.

Can I get some clarification that "1 bottle" and "1/2 gallon" both line up to be the same thing? And not that jblizzle meant for me to add 1 gallon. It's a little confusing since I bought the ~1 gallon bottles.

I appreciate the tolerance of the newbie questions!
 
Since you have a swamp the chlorine is going to be consumed very rapidly. I would agree with Jason and add 1 bottle (121 oz) per day until you get your test kit.

That will technically add 9 ppm of FC per day, but it will be consumed quickly. Just trying to not let your algae get any worse.

Take care.
 
Since you have a swamp the chlorine is going to be consumed very rapidly. I would agree with Jason and add 1 bottle (121 oz) per day until you get your test kit.

That will technically add 9 ppm of FC per day, but it will be consumed quickly. Just trying to not let your algae get any worse.

Thanks. I see the 9ppm in the PoolMath calculator now. I added a full 121oz bottle. I am finally registering chlorine on the test strip! I'll be curious what it looks like in the morning.

And one other point of clarification: I went ahead and turned off the SWCG and am just running the pump and filter. Would that be the general recommendation for now since the pool is overwhelmed and I am manually adding chlorine?
 
Yes. Your SWCG is not designed for this. They are great at adding 2-3 ppm of chlorine a day to your pool. You will be adding 40 to 50 per day with bleach.
 

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When you buy chlorine/bleach, make sure it's always a liquid of some kind since solid forms of chlorine add something else besides chlorine to your pool, usually either calcium or CYA, and while the Chlorine will get used up and you'll add more to replace it, the extra stuff stays in the water till you drain it, raising those levels to uncontrollable amounts. Just want to clarify that when Marty said Pool Shock, it's actually a bottle of Liquid Pool Shock with 12.5% Sodium Hypochlorite, not the little bags of granular shock with Dichlor, Trichlor, or Calcium Hypochlorite.
 
Don't forget to brush the pool..... :)

I won't. As tedious as it is, I know that the effort is well worth it.

When you buy chlorine/bleach, make sure it's always a liquid of some kind since solid forms of chlorine add something else besides chlorine to your pool, usually either calcium or CYA, and while the Chlorine will get used up and you'll add more to replace it, the extra stuff stays in the water till you drain it, raising those levels to uncontrollable amounts. Just want to clarify that when Marty said Pool Shock, it's actually a bottle of Liquid Pool Shock with 12.5% Sodium Hypochlorite, not the little bags of granular shock with Dichlor, Trichlor, or Calcium Hypochlorite.

Understood. I think going liquid is pretty clearly the consensus here so I am going to go that route. My confusion was actually which liquid source to use. It gets confusing talking about Chlorine but then switching to Sodium Hypochlorite and then how the percentages are different. That's why I liked Marty's very specific advice on what to buy. I know I could have just gone to the local pool supply store and gotten a more concentrated liquid shock but I'm going to avoid the local pool supply store for a while since they have already taken my money for the CH and PHO agents.

Speaking of local pool supply store, the very first time I was in there, someone was in there stating something along the lines of the following: "A few days ago I was in here and you had me add 100lbs of X to raise Y. Yesterday you told me Y was now too high and to add 25lbs of Z. Now you are telling me Y is too low again and you want me to add another 50lbs of X. Something doesn't seem right." I probably should have walked out then.

Thanks. I see the 9ppm in the PoolMath calculator now. I added a full 121oz bottle. I am finally registering chlorine on the test strip! I'll be curious what it looks like in the morning.

As I thought would be the case, the test strips were showing 0 FC this morning. It's kind of amazing how quickly it gets consumed/depleted by all the algae and sun. I already added another 121oz bottle of chlorine this morning. The water looks much better already (Sun, 8/20 @ 8:40am):
File_000.jpg

And as an aside, I like this little snippet from the Intex Saltwater FAQ to explain the entire saltwater chemical process:
What is the chemical process that takes place in an Intex Saltwater System? The chemical process is very simple. Salt and water are combined with a low-level electrical charge inside the Saltwater System to produce Sodium Hydroxide which converts to Hypochlorous Acid. Light, in the form of sunlight, converts the Hypochlorous Acid to Hydrochloric Acid, which then reverts back to salt and water. When copper and HClO (Hypochlorous acid)/ClO- are released into the water, these positive, surface active ions are a potent biocide. The disinfection action takes place when the positively charged copper ions form electrostatic bonds on negatively charged areas of the microorganism cell walls. This process means that the agents that eliminate bacteria and algae in the pool water are continuously produced in the Saltwater System, and when used up, revert back to plain, natural, salt and water in an ongoing cycle, never needing replacement.

My plan is to maintain some level of chlorine in the water through Thursday. My test kit should arrive then and I will begin the full SLAM process on Friday. My wife isn't thrilled about the delay but at least it is heading in the right direction already.

Thanks again for the help! I was worried about posting basic SLAM questions but everyone has been wonderful with their responses.
 
You're pool is a much better color already. Still got a ways to go before it's completely sanitary, but the blue color instead of green is a great sign.

When your test kit does come in, know that as long as your FC is above 10, the pH test will show higher than it really is, so don't add acid or anything just cuz your pH appears high while slamming.
 
Test kit won't be there till Thursday? I would suggest cutting back to 1/2 bottle of bleach tomorrow so the FC does not build too high. The test strips might show 0 when in reality it is "high"
 
Test kit won't be there till Thursday? I would suggest cutting back to 1/2 bottle of bleach tomorrow so the FC does not build too high. The test strips might show 0 when in reality it is "high"

I'm sure that you are recommending this approach based on your experience of having seen test strips not be accurate and occasionally be way off (like reading 0 when in reality it is way high). I'd like to give a little more information from today so that we can make the right decision.

Using the test strips, I observed the following readings throughout the day:
~1 hour = 10ppm
~3 hours = 3-5ppm
~5 hours = 1-3ppm
~7 hours = 0ppm

To me that indicates the test strips are reading okay and that we aren't over-chlorinating and building up FC. So, I see the following options:
1. Continue adding a 121oz bottle a day but monitor the FC to make sure that it is going down before adding more. This would keep bumping it up to 9ppm and then letting it drift down.
2. Drop down to 1/2 a bottle to be conservative about over chlorinating.
3. Last option would be to move off a hard rule of 1 bottle or 1/2 bottle, and assume that the test strips are semi-accurate, and then go into test mode and add a bottle when the chlorine gets back to 0ppm. Somewhat similar to what I'll be doing with the SLAM but I'll be maxing out at 9ppm. This would mean that I would go ahead and add a 2nd bottle today since I am already back down to 0ppm today.

Just trying to provide a little more info so we can make the right decision.

Here is what the pool looks like Sun, 8/20 @3pm:
File_000.jpg

Thanks!
 
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