New pool owner. Intex SWG. Husband set up pool while I was out of town. Added the salt and cyuranic but left me to deal with testing chemistry. So, 2 weeks no chemistry testing. Also, he forgot to do a boost after heavy rain. Pool looks fairly clear although lining is slick.
Just tested 1st time, using test strips that came with SWG:
Free Chlorine 1 ppm
but
pH, Alk, Calcium, off-the-chart low.
Intex manual has no instruction of how to treat. Tried to search through TFP. Even Pool School describes chems and how to test for them, but not what to do when they are off.
So, What do you do when other chems are off? Is there a chart to tell you how to alter each chem?
Thanks so much,
Nina
Ok, just saw the pinned sticky "Water Balance for SWGs" with the details on ideal levels.
I guess I need a different way to test and a whole bunch of different chemicals?
1) It says "First step is to adjust salt to the manufacturer's recommended range (usually around 3000-3200 ppm but some models do need a higher level. Check your manual.) Starting out slightly higher (200-400 ppm) than the ideal level is recommended, since the salt level will tend to fall over time."
How do you TEST the salt level? The Intel SWG has codes if salt is too high or low, but not specific levels.
2) "Second adjust CYA to between 70 and 80."
How do you TEST CYA?
3) [SWG run time > FC] Understood
4) "Adjust your Total Alkalinity to 60-80 ppm. (This is IMPORTANT!)"
How do you ADJUST?
5) "Adjust your pH to 7.2-7.8 and not any lower. Monitor your pH and when it climbs to 7.8 add acid to lower it back to 7.2 - 7.5 (This is also IMPORTANT!)"
How DO YOU ADJUST?
Cong
6) "Adjust Calcium Hardness to 350 ppm for plaster and 220 ppm for fiberglass. Vinyl pools are OK if the CH is at 50 ppm or higher. In any case it should not be much above 400 ppm"
How DO YOU ADJUST?
Thanks,
Nina
Congratulations on the new pool. You've come to the right place to get your pool water balanced and looking great.
You need to get a good test kit and I highly recommend the
TF-100 from TFTestkits.net . A link is in my sig. For the salt test, you can get the test strips or the Taylor K-1766 drop based kit.
What do you do when chems are off? First, we use the test kit to accurately measure the water. Then use Pool Math to determine what and how much needs to be added. The
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and
Recommended Pool Chemicals will help you learn how to change each parameter that is tested. The
Recommended Levels and Pool Math gives a chart of where each level should be.
You give a list / order / steps to get your water in the correct levels. I'm going to change that list.
You need to first run a set of tests using the
TF-100 or K-2006C test kit . Order one of these kits ASAP. When you get the kit, run the tests. There are some additional directions in this post for
Extended Test Kit Directions . Run a set of tests (all but CYA) on your fill water as well. Post them when you can.
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
pool water temp
While you are waiting for the test kit to arrive, you can manually add bleach daily. Pour in front of the return with the pump running.
Then get your CYA level in line. This will stabilize / protect the chlorine from the Sun's UV rays. Get granular CYA and put the appropriate amount in a sock and hang it in front of the return. It takes a while to dissolve, but if you squeeze the sock every once in a while, it goes faster.
Immediately after that, using regular unscented bleach from your favorite store, add enough bleach to get to 5 ppm. You need to do this ASAP to prevent your new pool water from turning green. We start with bleach to increase your chlorine to the proper levels. Once you get the FC (and CYA) in proper range then you can turn on and use the SWG to maintain the FC levels. Use the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] chart to determine the proper chlorine levels based on the CYA level. Once you put the CYA in a sock and hang it in the water, assume it is in there when deciding on the proper FC level. Use the non-SWG numbers for now.
Then get your pH within the correct level. You lower pH with muriatic acid. Can be found at most hardware stores in the paint section. Get the regular stuff, not the green label bottle. Do not get the "low fume" type. Raising pH is a bit more complicated. We can advise once we know your other test results.
For TA, you really only need to adjust this if you find that your pH is not easily controlled or changes quickly. You usually don't have to increase this. To lower, we use Acid to drop the pH & TA, then use aeration to increase pH again.
For CH, we need to know your pool surface. You only need to closely monitor this if you have plaster/gunite surface. For fiberglass and vinyl surfaces you can ignore this as long as your CSI is within proper range. If you have an Intex pool, then don't add CH and keep an eye on CSI (via Pool Math) and life will be easy.
You can add the salt at any time really, but there are other chems you should focus on first (CYA and FC).
Please fill in your Signature. It will help us give appropriate advice without having to ask about your pool, size and equipment each time.
Getting Started .
Here is the sig link.
One bit of advice, stay out of the pool store. Do not buy any chemicals from them. Don't buy any chemicals until after you do the tests. You should get liquid bleach and salt though as you will need both of these.
Please ask any questions you may have. Is there anything above that needs clarification?