Cloudy water still~~

Re: Will Shock Powder increase PH?? (48% Cal-Hypo)

Hi :

I put around 4 bags (4 lbs) in to shock the pool. (21000 gal)

After few hours, I measure the PH, it jump from 7 to 7.8 or more.

Is it possible?

Thanks
Yes, it's possible.

Why so much shock? That is going to raise either your CH or CYA depending on the type of shock (CalHypo vs DiChlor).

Following TFP methods we never "shock" our pools.
 
Re: Will Shock Powder increase PH?? (48% Cal-Hypo)

It's because my current CYA is 50-60, and FC need to be raised from 5 to 22 for the shock level.

According to pool math, I have to put in 6lbs (48% cal-hypo). That's why I put 4 lbs , and measure it first before another 2lbs.
 
Re: Will Shock Powder increase PH?? (48% Cal-Hypo)

It's because my current CYA is 50-60, and FC need to be raised from 5 to 22 for the shock level.

According to pool math, I have to put in 6lbs (48% cal-hypo). That's why I put 4 lbs , and measure it first before another 2lbs.
I'm curious, why did you chose Cal-Hypo over bleach?

Are you SLAMming the pool?
 
I have been SLAM my pool for almost 4 days.

First day, I did have cc in the pool, but no more last night.

It's been like this for almost 2 days, and bump running at 2700RPM for at least 14 hours.

FC - 19
CYA - 50
CC - nearly 0 (barely color change after drops)
CH -200
PH - 7.8
TA - 90

But water is still cloudy. Should I still keep SLAM the pool until it gets clear?

Thanks
 
Take a picture each day, same place, same angle, and same lighting (all as best possible). Down at the ladder/stairs is best. You should be able to see at least a little progress each day in the photos side-by-side. Progress is important.

I like to think about a SLAM in terms of two speed limits:
1. The Battle Against Organics (plant/insect debris and live algae/bacteria vs bleach)
2. The Battle Against Filtration (dead algae vs filter)

Doing the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test will tell you a lot about which you should focus on speeding up.

A. If you pass the OCLT, then it becomes about speeding up the filtering, which would be more pump run time and/or DE/CF and/or more vac

B. If lose a lot of FC overnight - press the gas on #1 by more frequent FC test/add, as swiftly as 30 mins+more brushing&vac. Amazing how much this can help speed up the SLAM if you badly fail OCLT!!!

If you fail OCLT, you can do both of above too, but A without B only works so well.

Did you follow that? Did it make sense?
 
Re: Will Shock Powder increase PH?? (48% Cal-Hypo)

Well, it's late, and I don't have bleach or liquid chlorine on hand. I only have powder in my inventory, and that's why I drop them in.

Gotcha.

I see that you are SLAMming.

Cloudy water still~~

I hope you have picked up more bleach as Cal-Hypo will continue to add calcium to your pool. While low CH is not a problem for vinyl pools, high CH most certainly is.
 

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Take a picture each day, same place, same angle, and same lighting (all as best possible). Down at the ladder/stairs is best. You should be able to see at least a little progress each day in the photos side-by-side. Progress is important.

I like to think about a SLAM in terms of two speed limits:
1. The Battle Against Organics (plant/insect debris and live algae/bacteria vs bleach)
2. The Battle Against Filtration (dead algae vs filter)

Doing the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test will tell you a lot about which you should focus on speeding up.

A. If you pass the OCLT, then it becomes about speeding up the filtering, which would be more pump run time and/or DE/CF and/or more vac

B. If lose a lot of FC overnight - press the gas on #1 by more frequent FC test/add, as swiftly as 30 mins+more brushing&vac. Amazing how much this can help speed up the SLAM if you badly fail OCLT!!!

If you fail OCLT, you can do both of above too, but A without B only works so well.

Did you follow that? Did it make sense?

Totally make sense. I am doing OCLT tonight, and see how it goes tomorrow morning.
 
I finished the OCLT this morning, it drops 1ppm (2 drops). Given the error allowance (.5), is it passed? So it will be only a matter of filtration time . I assume.
Via: Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
If your FC level remained the same, or went down by 1.0 or less, the water is clean. There isn't any living algae or other organic contamination in the pool.

If you lost more than 1.0 ppm of FC, then there is something in the water that needs to be removed and you should SLAM, or continue SLAMing, the pool.

So as long as you did the FAS-DPD FC & CC tests carefully and correctly, and there was at least 8 hours of pump running, yes, you passed OCLT.

So it will be only a matter of filtration time . I assume.

Yes, your passed OCLT indicates that you have a lot of dead algae/pollen floating around in the pool and if you desire to speed up the SLAM, enhanced filtration is #1 way.

Procedures to potentially speed up filtration:
1. Stay diligent about your SLAM Process testing/additions/brushing - slacking here has caused more people extended SLAMing than anything else
2. Filtration run time - 24/7 or as much run time as you can safely get
3. PSI gauge - you have one? It work? Do you know your clean PSI after a proper backwash cycle? Do you know your dirty PSI? How long is it taking right now to get there?
4. Full backwash cycle - pump off, switch to backwash, 2 minutes or until completely clear, off, rinse for 30s or until clear, off, backwash 30 seconds or until clear, off, rinse 30s or until clear, off, back to filter, check and record PSI
5. Slowly vacuum the bottom, very slowly, very very slowly (on filter, not waste)
6. More brushing, especially walls and delicately the corners
7. If there is an area that is less clear than other areas, while manual vac is still hooked up, just leave the vac over in that area so it can mimic having the skimmer right there, sucking the cloudiest water right into the sand filter
8. Don't backwash before 20-25% higher than clean PSI unless water flow strength at return is reduced significantly
9. Backwash before going over 25% higher than clean PSI, even if waterflow is strong still
10. If you are seeing improvement each day in the photos, consider adding DE or CF to your sand filter as described here (ask any questions before you do it!)! Since a slightly dirty filter catches finer particles, using DE or CF as we direct raises the PSI up by 1 and mimics a dirty filter in a couple minutes instead of days. You'll have to backwash much, much sooner, which means you'll need to check the PSI more often, add more water if rain doesn't replace it, and check things like CYA PH (when FC is under 10) more often to balance the water after the hose additions, but this really does speed up most people with sand filters! Be sure to read all manufacturer instructions on DE, and don't inhale the DE dust or eat it, pool DE is not the food grade stuff anymore. Be sure to check your local laws as some places prohibit backwashing DE and those people have to use CF. Both DE and CF work, just different pros/cons. Both cheap and effective.
11. Skimmer socks/hairnets people have great success with the 100 pack on Amazon for under $10, search the forum if interested
 
Via: Overnight Chlorine Loss Test


So as long as you did the FAS-DPD FC & CC tests carefully and correctly, and there was at least 8 hours of pump running, yes, you passed OCLT.



Yes, your passed OCLT indicates that you have a lot of dead algae/pollen floating around in the pool and if you desire to speed up the SLAM, enhanced filtration is #1 way.

Procedures to potentially speed up filtration:
1. Stay diligent about your SLAM Process testing/additions/brushing - slacking here has caused more people extended SLAMing than anything else
2. Filtration run time - 24/7 or as much run time as you can safely get
3. PSI gauge - you have one? It work? Do you know your clean PSI after a proper backwash cycle? Do you know your dirty PSI? How long is it taking right now to get there?
4. Full backwash cycle - pump off, switch to backwash, 2 minutes or until completely clear, off, rinse for 30s or until clear, off, backwash 30 seconds or until clear, off, rinse 30s or until clear, off, back to filter, check and record PSI
5. Slowly vacuum the bottom, very slowly, very very slowly (on filter, not waste)
6. More brushing, especially walls and delicately the corners
7. If there is an area that is less clear than other areas, while manual vac is still hooked up, just leave the vac over in that area so it can mimic having the skimmer right there, sucking the cloudiest water right into the sand filter
8. Don't backwash before 20-25% higher than clean PSI unless water flow strength at return is reduced significantly
9. Backwash before going over 25% higher than clean PSI, even if waterflow is strong still
10. If you are seeing improvement each day in the photos, consider adding DE or CF to your sand filter as described here (ask any questions before you do it!)! Since a slightly dirty filter catches finer particles, using DE or CF as we direct raises the PSI up by 1 and mimics a dirty filter in a couple minutes instead of days. You'll have to backwash much, much sooner, which means you'll need to check the PSI more often, add more water if rain doesn't replace it, and check things like CYA PH (when FC is under 10) more often to balance the water after the hose additions, but this really does speed up most people with sand filters! Be sure to read all manufacturer instructions on DE, and don't inhale the DE dust or eat it, pool DE is not the food grade stuff anymore. Be sure to check your local laws as some places prohibit backwashing DE and those people have to use CF. Both DE and CF work, just different pros/cons. Both cheap and effective.
11. Skimmer socks/hairnets people have great success with the 100 pack on Amazon for under $10, search the forum if interested

I backwash my sand filter every other day during SLAM process, so my gauge is always at working PSI, haven't seen it go higher than working PSI.
But definitely will follow your suggestions, those are good advice.
 
You may want to re-consider in the future how often you are backwashing. You should wait until you have a 25% rise in your filter pressure. If you backwash a sand filter too soon, you degrade its filtering ability as a slightly dirty sand filter works better (thus the adding of DE to make it filter better).

Take care.
 
After 5 days efforts, day & night, I finally can see bottom.

It could be better, so I am still keeping shock level for one more day.

Really appreciate all the advice from you guys.

d83862834f4e88c9dbbac9c2bfa5d8d2.jpg
f3eb5bb720fb7fe2f9abea9d76c00a31.jpg
 
Yes, I agree that is indeed a beautiful blue and you're on your way to clear! Did you understand what mknauss is explaining about how it can be better to let the filter increase that much to actually speed up clearing it? It is great advice. Right after you backwash, the water's path through the sand is like a large pipe, "O" that big, but as dead algae plugs up the works, it is reduced to a smaller pipe that less particles can slip though like, "o" and the PSI rises faster and you catch more with each gallon that goes through it. By 25% PSI rise, it's like, "°" and it begins to slow you down instead of speed you up. Some filters this is closer to 20%, which you can tell by feeling the water strength at the return jet after backwashing, then at 20 and then at 25 percents. If you notice a big drop in pressure before 25, then it's time to backwash earlier in your filter's case. Only you can decide what's best for your setup. There's nothing wrong with backwashing that often, it just might not be fastest, plus more water loss/add/rebalance. No worries at all, just want you to have the best info to make decisions from. You're doing great, very, very blue water!!! Looking forward to the clear photo any day now!
 

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