Help with levels...

[airbur]

14' x 42" Intex Round Vinyl with SWG

FC 5.0
PH 6.8
TA 180
CH 0

I have a Hayward heater and will be raising CH with Calcium Chloride.

For TA, I've read here that you can aerate (which I don't really have an easy way of doing). If I add dry or Muratic acid, that will lower TA but will also lower PH which I don't want to do.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

 

[mknauss]

Aerate. Point a return to the surface, devise a fountain that attaches to a return, put three or four kids in the pool for a few hours. All those things will aerate.

To get a stable pH you will want to lower your TA. Only way to do it is aerate.

Take care.

 

[kcindc]

mknauss is correct. For more details, here is a pool school article: Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity

 

[airbur]

Okay, thanks guys. Got some calcium additive and will aerate.

 

[DeanP66]

I built my own aerater out of pvc because I don't have eyeballs on my returns. I attached mine to my Polaris pressure side port, but if you don't have one you could attach it to a submersible pump and get the same effect. Here's a picture of mine.

 

[airbur]

Thanks guys. So I bought a better test kit and it's giving me way different PH readings that the strips.

FC: 8
PH: 7.8
TA: 150
CH: 50
CYA: 65
Salt: 3240

Should I consider a PH lowering agent now that both PH and TA are high?

Also, both tests are showing very high FC. I haven't had the SWG on for 2 days and have left the pool uncovered during the day. Does it just take a while for the sun to do it's job on the FC?

Thanks.

 

[airbur]

Removed

 

[kcindc]

What test kit did you purchase? TFP recommends either the Taylor K-2006C or the TF-100 from tftestkits.com.

Please update your signature so that we can help you better: Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post

Your FC is not very high. Please look the at the chlorine CYA chart: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

CYA is always rounded up to the nearest 10, so your CYA is 70. Per the chart above, your FC is right where it should be.

Here is an article on lowering TA: Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity

Recommended levels (see Chlorine CYA chart above for FC levels): Pool School - Recommended Levels

 

[airbur]

Thanks Karen. Signature updated. I have this test kit: Ace Two Way Pool Test Kit - Pool Maintenance Equipment - Ace Hardware
Planning on buying the TF kit soon.

 

[domct203]

Thanks guys. So I bought a better test kit and it's giving me way different PH readings that the strips.

FC: 8
PH: 7.8
TA: 150
CH: 50
CYA: 65
Salt: 3240

Should I consider a PH lowering agent now that both PH and TA are high?

Also, both tests are showing very high FC. I haven't had the SWG on for 2 days and have left the pool uncovered during the day. Does it just take a while for the sun to do it's job on the FC?

Thanks.

Thanks Karen. Signature updated. I have this test kit: Ace Two Way Pool Test Kit - Pool Maintenance Equipment - Ace Hardware
Planning on buying the TF kit soon.

That 'kit' will only check FC to 4ppm, & pH. How are you getting a FC of 8ppm, as well as TA, CH, CYA & Salt levels?

 

[airbur]

That 'kit' will only check FC to 4ppm, & pH. How are you getting a FC of 8ppm, as well as TA, CH, CYA & Salt levels?

I have AquaCheck salt tests as well as the TFKits CYA test. I also have test strips for CH and TA.

For the FC check, one side shows BR and the other Cl ...I was going by the Cl #. Is that wrong?

 

[kcindc]

Test strips are worthless, so you have no real idea what your TA level is.

With your test kit, the highest FC level is 4.0. How did you get a result of 8?

The BR test is for bromine which isn't applicable as your pool is a bromine pool.

Without a reliable test kit with reliable results, we can't really help you and we would be going blind.

 

[airbur]

Here is the kit I have. So is BR or Cl the FC reading? Thanks!

 

[domct203]

CL is the chlorine reading.

BR is for Bromine, which you do not use.

The labeling on that vial is very misleading.....

 

[kcindc]

CL is the right column. The highest FC using your current test is FC=4 which isn't high enough. BR is for bromine which is a different way to sanitize your pool and isn't recommended. You can ignore the BR column.

You need to get one of the recommended test kits. The TF-100 is the most economical and it should last this season and next season. Here is a comparison of test kits: Pool School - Test Kits Compared

TF-100: TFTestkits.net

If you become a supporter of this website which is a non-profit, you can write off some of the donation as a donation to charity (consult your tax advisor) and get a discount from tftestkits: CLICK HERE to Become a TroubleFreePool.com Supporter!!

I am a volunteer of this website and I do not have any ties to tfteskits. I was in your shoes at one point, blindly using test strips and pool stores to tell me what to do. This website has help me over, and over again. I have saved a fortunate in chemical costs, equipment help, tips and trick, and help refinishing my pool.

 

[airbur]

Thanks for the clarification. Based on the upper range of the CL being 4.0, my result is easily double that by my estimate. That's how I get around FC 8.

 

[domct203]

Thanks for the clarification. Based on the upper range of the CL being 4.0, my result is easily double that by my estimate. That's how I get around FC 8.

With a CYA of 70ppm, your daily FC target is 8-10ppm, with your absolute safe minimum FC at 5ppm.

That OTO tester is no better than the guess strips. You will need to stay on top of that pool until you can get a proper FAS/DPD test kit. If you should develop algae you will not be able to properly clear it using OTO testing.

 

[kcindc]

Thanks for the clarification. Based on the upper range of the CL being 4.0, my result is easily double that by my estimate. That's how I get around FC 8.

Unfortunately, that is not how these tests work. Per the chlorine/cya chart, you need to keep your FC higher than your current tests will allow. Also, your test kit will not help if you every had to SLAM your pool to get rid of algae or other organics to get your pool clear or sanitary.

 

[jeffchap]

Thanks for the clarification. Based on the upper range of the CL being 4.0, my result is easily double that by my estimate. That's how I get around FC 8.

Why not 12? 20?

My point is, guesstimating is little different than just picking numbers at random. Our method of pool care is dependent upon accurate testing, thus the continual insistence on getting one of the recommended test kits. Without valid numbers, there is little we can do to help you other than to wish you"good luck".

 

[airbur]

CL is the right column. The highest FC using your current test is FC=4 which isn't high enough. BR is for bromine which is a different way to sanitize your pool and isn't recommended. You can ignore the BR column.

You need to get one of the recommended test kits. The TF-100 is the most economical and it should last this season and next season. Here is a comparison of test kits: Pool School - Test Kits Compared

TF-100: TFTestkits.net

If you become a supporter of this website which is a non-profit, you can write off some of the donation as a donation to charity (consult your tax advisor) and get a discount from tftestkits: CLICK HERE to Become a TroubleFreePool.com Supporter!!

I am a volunteer of this website and I do not have any ties to tfteskits. I was in your shoes at one point, blindly using test strips and pool stores to tell me what to do. This website has help me over, and over again. I have saved a fortunate in chemical costs, equipment help, tips and trick, and help refinishing my pool.

Thanks. I've already paid for the Pro version of the TFP iPhone app.

I was going to buy the TF-100 kit when I bought the CLA test but couldn't get past the $18 shipping cost