New pool and new member

Hi all, I'm just amazed at all the info this site has hahah.. It's unbelieveable. Anyways I just bought a above ground pool that is 18' X 48". This is my first time owning a pool and had no idea how much is involved I feel like I need to have a scientist over my house to get the chemistry of the water correct. So I filled my pool with tap water about a week ago and then figured out how to install and run my filter. So it rained twice pretty hard and the water turned a little cloudy and slimed on walls. I put a chemical named liquid magnet(phosphoric acid derivative) last night and didn't help. I was told this chemical will leave debris on floor and vacuum which I will do tomorrow. My plan is to vacuum, then shock the pool, then use a algaecide and cationic polymeric coagulant, then chlorine and finish with a jump start that is suppose to enhance and accelerate water chemistry. Does this plan sound good? I posted a picture of my return and incoming hoses and strainer. Is anyone familiar with this setup. I have a best way pool which has a single "A" marking on outside of pool where the strainer(control valve) goes and then 2 "B"s that I have two things that I don't know the name or even if they belong in the B holes (the manual isn't helpful). Do you know if I have them in the correct spot from the pictures. Also is the A or B"s the return(water getting sucked from pool and into filter/pump)? I'm sorry if this is too much but Im new to this and just want to get it right so I can enjoy the pool. Thank tou for the help guys I really aplricate it.
 
If you'll read our Pool School articles you'll quickly learn that we do not advocate the use of 'magic potions' in your pool. We only add what our pools need as indicated by accurate self-testing using only specifically approved test kits.

Namely, we use regular chlorine bleach, cyanuric acid (stabilizer), muriatic acid to lower pH, borax to raise pH, etc.

It is your pool to do with as you wish, by my advice to you is to read our Pool School ASAP and save yourself a good deal of heartburn and money.
 
Thank you for replying, I read 50% of pool school and let me tell you how amazed I'm about this site. The pool store took me for a ride hahaha. I went to a local pool store and they told me all these chemicals probably 5-6 to open my pool. Anyways I realize that I need to buy a good test kit and will buy one recommended in pool school but looking at the poolmaster or Taylor 2006. My new plan is to test the water(hopefully get it today or tomorrow). And I will buy the liquid bleach and cya powder. Are pool supply stores the only place to buy cya? Right now my pool is slimey and water has a green cloudiness . All I have added up to this point is a product called liquid magnet(phosphoric acid). The pool store reccomened it to me. Should I add the liquid chlorine today before testing and how much? Anything else I should add before test? I also just bought a vacuum and brushes, should I brush and vacuum all the slime and debris before doing test.I will post with test results.if you can give me a good plan to follow before I get test would be great. Thank you
 
You could safely add a half gallon of bleach per day until you get your test kit to keep things from getting any worse.

I buy my stabilizer at Wal-Mart. Any place with a seasonal pool dept should have it. The only thing I buy from pool stores is testing reagent refills.
 
I have a 21' above-ground pool (AGP) like my signature says. I use liquid chlorine, cyanuric acid (CYA), borax (for increasing pH), muriatic acid (MA) (for decreasing pH), and baking soda (for total alkalinity). With a vinyl pool, like yours, we don't have to worry about calcium hardness too much. I really suggest that you read pool school. First, understand the ABCs of Pool Chemistry (you don't need to worry about salt, borates, or phosphates). Then learn about the Recommended Pool Chemicals, almost all of which can be found at the grocery store (borax (Arm & Hammer 20 Mule Team borax) and baking soda) or hardware store (muriatic acid). CYA can be found at the pool store or stores like Walmart and Meijer. You can use liquid bleach from the grocery store for chlorine, but for me, my pool store has a better price. You need to do the math to compare the actual amount of chlorine. For example, my grocery store sells bleach at 8.5% chlorine in 121 oz. jugs, my Meijer sells pool chlorine at 10% chlorine in 128 oz. jugs, and my pool store sells chlorine at 12.5% in 128 oz. jugs.

You'll also need a good test kit. I recommend the TF-100 kit. Once you have a kit, please post your first measurements in this format:
Free Chlorine (FC):
Combined Chlorine (CC):
pH:
Total Alkalinity (TA):
Calcium Hardness (CH):
Cyanuric Acid (CYA):

I would stop adding all of those chemicals that the pool store told you to. I'd return all that you can. Clearing your pool will require that you follow the Shock Level and Maintain (SLAM) method for a few days. You'll want to brush the walls and vacuum the floor daily during the SLAM. Keep an eye on your filter pressure and backwash as needed.
 
So I went to buy the Taylor 2006 test kit and they didn't have it so I bought the Leslie's 81330 kit and now I see I bought the wrong one from pool school. I really just want to test the tc, fc, cc and cyanuric acid test so I can know how much chlorine to use and start the slam plan. Would I be able to test these test with this kit to find TV fc cc and cya until I can get the right one which would be not until Sunday or this dpd kit won't work for the slam.Thanks for the help guys.
 
So I went to buy the Taylor 2006 test kit and they didn't have it so I bought the Leslie's 81330 kit and now I see I bought the wrong one from pool school. I really just want to test the tc, fc, cc and cyanuric acid test so I can know how much chlorine to use and start the slam plan. Would I be able to test these test with this kit to find TV fc cc and cya until I can get the right one which would be not until Sunday or this dpd kit won't work for the slam.what is the difference between the two kits in testing those four test?Thanks for the help guys.
 
The kit you have won't measure FC above 5, IIRC. That's okay as long as you keep your CYA below 40 and don't need to SLAM. But since your pool is already green and slimy, you can't accurately measure FC up to SLAM levels, so you're flying blind.
 

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Just take the wrong kit back and order the right one (TF-100 is my preferred kit as it has more of what you need, and less of the less often tests)

TFTestkits.net They ship from NC so not tooooo far from Glen Cove. (I have family in Glen Cove)

Bleach and CYA from Lowes or Walmart are all you need. NO MORE pool store potions!! They cause soooo much grief for folks, its not funny!

Maddie :flower:
 
Thanks guys for your response I really appricate it. That's really cool that you have family here. It's a small world and a small town lol. I probAbly know them depending on there age. I already returned the Taylor 2005 and ordered the Taylor 2006 last night so should be here tomorrow or Sunday. They didn't have the tft kit avaible on Amazon so I just got got the 2006. The tft kit is def a better buy. Should I empty say 25% of the water today and vacuum/brush and fill back up until I get the test kit? And when I get results I will post them. I plan on slamming the pool. Thank you again
 
You don't need to empty any water unless your CYA level is extremely high (70+). Once you get your Taylor 2006, run your tests and post. Your CYA test is the one that will determine what chlorine level you will use for SLAMing your pool. You'll want to get your pH down to 7.2 or so and then SLAM away with bleach or liquid chlorine.
 
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