learthur said:don't take this the wrong way but I think you are pursuing a pathway that exceeds your technical knowledge.
For you I would recommend you not do ORP control, however pH control would serve you well.
Making ORP work has a lot of variables in it that the average pool owner shouldn't and most won't desire to deal with.
Yes ORP works for me , but there are lots of reasons why which I don't have the time to explain. There is a lot of research and undiscovered science related to ORP use in swimming pools. I enjoy studing it with my test pool, but this is not for most people.
please focus on pH control.
Good luck
Lee
The above wasn't referring to me, but I'll assume it would definitely go for anyone who is a novice at this pool stuff.
I have a different system than the OP, but I would guess that all orp sensors behave the same. I have a Pool Pilot Total Control swg with orp and ph sensors. I'm reading these threads, trying to figure out which levels would be best for optimal performance and ease of use of the system. I, too, was confused with the cya level suggestions, then the change in levels after reporting that an orp was being used.
I do understand now that I need <50 cya and that my cell would work longer/harder (FC level at 3?). Other than that, should I really try and disable it for a better performance outcome? Do I have a choice? Not sure if that's possible with the Total Control from Pool Pilot. If I ended up doing that, would disabling it entail removing the orp sensor or just "disabling" it from the menu?
Just to add... I have a small 18' round Ag pool that will not really need much to get the desired levels up with this system. Maybe the cell working harder won't be too bad in this case. The cell is size 48 btw.
Should i shoot for 40 cya and 3 FC? I've been replacing pool water since I put in too much cya for the other swg chart without the orp sensor.
Good info! I just have to read more.
Thank you.