switching from baquacil to chlorine with SWG, new to TFP

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ajjanes

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May 15, 2017
14
Columbia
I'm switching to chlorine and have read the conversion instructions and started the process, i have ordered a Taylor K2006 testing kit but it hasn't arrived yet so I'm testing with just some test strips, my free chlorine has never shown any color, I'm on day 2 and have added 13 gallons of bleach. I used CDX, when I pour the bleach in it still turns yellow. Will it always change to yellow when I add bleach or when it no longer changes to yellow is that a sign that I'm getting closer to the conversion completion. My ph and other test results were good before I started conversion and my water was crystal clear after I removed my cover, vacuumed and ran my pump overnight. Am I correct in only adding bleach at this point until conversion is complete?
 
Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: I wish we could've discussed this more with you before starting the process, if nothing else to discuss the addition of CDX and how it may effect the transition. Also, without the K-2006, you're really driving blind with FC testing. No doubt you've cracked-open the egg on this one, so there's no turning back. But I would be hesitant to recommend adding lots of bleach without accurate testing from this point forward. Not only for the protection of your vinyl, but also so you don't waste money/bleach.

To answer your question though, once the conversion is started, it's all about maintaining the FC of "15", and backwashing as pressure increases by 20-25%. There are a few of us that watch for Baqua conversions, so you'll see a few common posters to your thread. But for now, I would be careful about getting too aggressive until you can test FC accurately with your K-2006.

Thanks for posting, and we look forward to helping you.
 
Thank you, my k2006 should be here today, I'm guessing the use of CDC is going to make this take a lot longer. Are you suppose to check levels and add bleach every hour to make it faster? I'm working several days in a row so to do that I would have to do it at night, is that ok
 
I'm guessing the use of CDC is going to make this take a lot longer. Are you suppose to check levels and add bleach every hour to make it faster?
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Correct on the CDX. I suppose its effect will depend on the amount used. As for the FC level, you can expect the early stages to consume a lot of bleach. The more you can test and replenish bleach to maintain the FC of 15 the better the process will go. Of course work always seems to dictate our lives, so you can only do what you can. But at least you understand that going into the situation. Do your best and let us know if you have any other questions.
 
My kit is in! My FC was 6, I calculated on pool math and added appropriate bleach, I waited an hour and rechecked and I was 10.5, what happens if I don't get to 15? Is my conversion complete if I my FC is 9.5 in the morning?
t
 
No, it just means that you caught a break with no sunlight. An FC of 15 is the ideal number used based on a baqua pool with no CYA or other products that could influence the baqua breakdown. Since we know you have some CDX product in the water, it could be influencing the bleach's ability to reach the higher level which in-turn is required to breakdown the baqua goo. While it's good the pool is holding some FC, I would continue to test and add bleach as often as required to reach and maintain the 15 goal and pass the OCLT based on that level. Only then should you consider moving-on to the next step of changing media, etc.
 
ok sorry, but what is OCLT? I think i may have had a blessing in disguise, my water level was low from all the back washing and night before left I forgot and left the water hose on all night so the next morning my pool was overflowing, sure I won't be happy when I get the water bill, but I think it may have diluted the baquacil a lot because yesterday it cleared up. I'm still confused on when to add the cya and connect my swg. Is it when I have had an night where my FC doesn't loose more than 1 ppm, its cloudy today and have had heavy rains off and on, is it still ok to add chlorine today
 
ajjanes said:
ok sorry, but what is OCLT? I think i may have had a blessing in disguise, my water level was low from all the back washing and night before left I forgot and left the water hose on all night so the next morning my pool was overflowing, sure I won't be happy when I get the water bill, but I think it may have diluted the baquacil a lot because yesterday it cleared up. I'm still confused on when to add the cya and connect my swg. Is it when I have had an night where my FC doesn't loose more than 1 ppm, its cloudy today and have had heavy rains off and on, is it still ok to add chlorine today
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OCLT = Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.

Pump your FC up to SLAM level for your CYA in the evening after the sun goes down and run a panel of tests, noting the FC and CC.

Run another panel of tests in the morning, before sunrise. If you lose less than 1ppm FC and your CC is .05 or less, you pass. If not, keep SLAMing the water (Incidentally, if CC is 1ppm or higher the evening before, there is no reason to run a OCLT. Sleep in.).

Passing the OCLT and clear water indicates you are done SLAMming.

Do not put in CYA until directed by the process steps. It won't be until you approach the end. Also there is no reason to put on your SWG until you are done with the conversion. LC is doing most, if not all, of the work. The SWG cannot achieve the levels you need to SLAM the water.
 
So does my FC have to be 15 tonight or can it be 10 and if its not less than 9 im good
Texas Splash said:
Indeed, a little water exchange may have worked in your favor. As a reminder, follow the TFP Pool School - Convert Your Baqua Pool to Chlorine page closely. Make sure to pass the OCLT at the 15 FC mark first before moving-on to the next step of the process and conducting additional OCLT tests (passing 2 consecutive nights). Hang in there!
Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
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I would say 15. That's been the proven method to show positive baqua breakdown with a pool that has zero CYA and little to no evidence of other chemicals (i.e CDX). I would advise bumping-up as the FC loss could be different than that at a lower level.
 
Finally there!!! We had a lot of rain that made it difficult, but my water is crystal clear and I passed the OCLT. So I'm going to change my sand in filter and add CYA. Now if I understand correctly I don't put my salt in until my FC is 0.5 or less 2 days, but do I still need to keep my FC at level 15? My grand children are dying to swim and not sure when that will be OK. Also I was told at pool store to run my pump 24/7 and did so. Do I need to still do that?
 
Outstanding! :goodjob: Big day today. So now you do the following:
- Clean out your filter and change the media.
- Once the filter is cleaned up, add enough CYA to reach 30 ppm.
- Continue to maintain FC at 15 ppm until ........
- Your conversion is complete when CC's are 0.5 or less two days in a row.

Then you can lower pump run times and are TFP ready. You should review the Recommended Levels and ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and begin balancing your water. Congratulations!
 
OK I have my SWG up and running but my FC is not staying up I know I need to increase my CYA levels but how often should I add this, Im afraid to get it too high. My readings this morning was FC 1.5, ph 7.4, TA 90, CYA 55 salt level 3600, CH 70. I have my SWG on Boost and it and pump running 24/7. Water is crystal clear
 
Until you get your SWG adjusted properly, feel free to augment FC with bleach. You want a minimum CYA of 70 to help your SWG work more efficiently. You can also review the TFP Pool School - Water Balance for SWGs page for more info.

If things don't improve and you find FC consumption increasing, you might need to run another (regular) SLAM to be safe. An overnight (OCLT) should confirm that.
 
how often should i add the cya and recheck
Texas Splash said:
Until you get your SWG adjusted properly, feel free to augment FC with bleach. You want a minimum CYA of 70 to help your SWG work more efficiently. You can also review the TFP Pool School - Water Balance for SWGs page for more info.

If things don't improve and you find FC consumption increasing, you might need to run another (regular) SLAM to be safe. An overnight (OCLT) should confirm that.
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When you feel that your CYA is low, you can add the required amount per the Poolmath Calculator to reach your goal. Once the stabilizer is dissolved, it should record on your CYA test in about 24 hours or so. You can retest in a day or two to see if you reached your target.
 
My readings this morning were FC 6 ph 7.6 TA 100 CYA 75, im running my SWG 24/7 on Boost mode but when I checked my levels tonight my FC was down to 1, I have been running the SWG around the clock, shouldn't my chlorine level be more stable, I wont be home daily to add bleach, what are my options
 

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