Cant Seem to maintain Chlorine

Jump to latest Follow Reply
F

Fatjusto

0
Dec 25, 2016
21
Nsw
Gday everyone.

I have recently bought a new house which has a pool. The previous owner seemed to keep the water looking good most of the time without too much trouble. When i took over things went downhill reasonably quick!

Green/black algae was present in the grout of the waterline tiles. This continued to grow even after I scrubbed them.

I took the water samples to the pool shop and found had no chlorine etc. Every time I went back(fortnightly) they said the same thing.

I had a look the SWG and found that it was only working at 40% even though set at max.

I bought a new cell and now have it set at 100-103% for 8 hours.

The chlorine still seems to dissipate quite quickly.

I found this website/forum and ordered a Taylor test kit which I got 1 week ago.

I went away for the week and my father stayed at home and took care of the pool. When I returned home he had kindly scrubbed the algae from the grout and bought an algicide from the pool shop (copper based).

I test the water and I had .2 ppm FC and 7ppm CC!

I suspect this was something to do with the treatment and algae etc. in the water.

I went and got a 15 L bottle of 12.5% liquid chlorine and dosed

My current test result is:
FC 3.2
CC 0.4
pH 7.6
TA 80
CYA 55

I have since added 1kg of stabilzer to raise the CYA to 75.

My main question is... I tested the FC in the morning when I woke up and it was 4.8. Is it normal for it to drop to 3.2 by 3pm in the afternoon esp. given that my chlorinator was running at max for the whole time?

It is very hot and windy weather here and have to constantly remove leaves also if that means anything.
 
Welcome to TFP! Good to have you here :)

One treatment of copper based algaecide shouldn't cause too much harm, but don't add any more. Copper accumulates and leads to staining, and can turn blonde hair and fingernails green. The only test from a pool store that we'll listen to is for iron and copper, because that's usually a more reasonable cost than buying a test kit. It might be a good idea to get those tested.

I notice from your numbers that you're using the 25 ml sample size for FC where 1 drop = 0.2 ppm. You can use the 10 ml sample size where 1 drop = 0.5 ppm.

Yes, it's entirely normal for FC to be burned off by sunshine and bather load during the day. If there is no algae in the water (or other organic contamination) little to no FC will be consumed at night. Your chlorine consumption suggests that you have algae in the water, and of course, you've seen it on the tiles, so you need to kill it off. The only chemical you need to kill algae is chlorine, and the chlorinating liquid you bought works great.

So here's a couple of links, one describes Trouble Free Pool Care (TFPC), and the other is how we kill algae. Read those and see what else you'd like more information about. There's lots of people here that can help you kill off the algae, which is a bit of work, but will then drastically reduce your pool maintenance.
TFPC for Beginners (first two posts)
Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

Thanks very much for a great first post! Filling out the signature is really helpful and giving lots of background is as well.
 
Welcome to the forum.

What you describe is typical of a SWG battling to keep up with an underlying algae issue. The SLAM link Needsajet has provided you with is what you'll need to know. Whatever you do don't add any more stabiliser in the pool as you will then require a higher level of chlorine to kill off the algae.

What version of the Taylor test kit do you have? If it's the K2006 rather than the K2006C you will definitely need to get some more FAS DPD testing supplies to run the SLAM. You can get a compatible version from Clearchoicelabs
 
Ok thanks for the replies.

I kick myself for adding the stabiliser as I was thinking I may need to SLAM it. Bit late now....
I was thinking that the FC levels were lowering because of my stabiliser level being on the lower side recommended for SWG pools and that's why I decided to boost it up.
Incidentally the pool shop I was using only recommends 40 for CYA.


I luckily bought the k2006C kit so should be ok.

With the SLAM process what is the avg number of days you need to do this for? Also can you swim during this time or is it bad for you?

Thanks again

Justin
 
Hi Justin. A SLAM varies in the amount of time. If your pool is fairly clear rather than green and swampy it will take less time but you can expect at least a few days minimum. Staying on top of your chlorine additions often helps especially in the early stages.

Pool stores don't often understand the FC/CYA relationship which is a pillar of the TFP philosophy and based on scientific evidence. This includes a recommended higher level of CYA for those with a SWG which reduces chlorine extinction to sunlight whilst keeping the dreaded algae at bay.

You can swim up to SLAM level for your CYA as long as your pool is clear and you can see the bottom.
 
Reading between the lines, I do not think you have an adequate understanding of the SLAM process and just what the purpose of getting that chlorine in the water is about.

Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School and then read the SLAM process. You can get your pool perfectly clear and you have the right test kit. Keep learning a little more about the process we teach.......we'll help all the way.
 
The most important part of the SLAM is M as in Maintain the FC at the SLAM level for your CYA. You will need to do this until the SLAM is done. The SLAM is not done until the 3 criteria are in the SLAM article is met.

You will be adding a LOT of chlorine to your pool over several days. BUT once you get your pool clear it will be oh so much easier!

Kim:kim:
 
Soo, Ive just tested my water this morning after having the SWG running all night.


I have tested the results:
FC 4.8
CC 1
TA 70-80
CH 150
CYA 80

As I am going to start a SLAM I just want to make sure there is nothing I am missing from the instructions
and need to do before hand.

Pool math tells me to add 11.4L of liquid chlorine.

From the SLAM article , I am assuming its the presence of CC which is of the major concern in my case as all the other criterias have been fullfilled (I did the OCLT the night before and it was good)

THanks again
 
What is your PH? It needs to be down to 7.2 before you start the SLAM. It does not test correct when the FC is over 10.

You will want to turn off your SWG while you are slamming to help save the cell life. You will want to use liquid chlorine to get and maintain your FC at SLAM level.

Kim:kim:
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Have starting with the SLAM process and raised the FC level to 31(CYA 80). Its pretty much stayed there for the whole day.
CC still requires 2 drops (1ppm) so will continue tomorrow.
Will obviously check in the morning as to see what the levels are.
 
Maintain Maintain. Good luck with the Maintain!

Hopefully you get a nice bright sunny day and have plenty of R-0871. You can save titrating reagent by FC testing at 5 ml if you're not doing that already (half as many drops and each drop = 1.0 ppm). To be sure you have 5 ml, check a measuring spoon to see if it fills the test tube to exactly 10 mls with two scoops of pool water.
 
Hi Kim, water actually looks pretty clear ! Steps are also clean as a whistle since my dad scrubbed them. I can still send a photo!

I tested the water before bed last night and had
FC-31
CC 0.5-1

This morning however
FC- 25
CC-0.5-1

It did rain quite heavily overnight so I guess this is why I had such a drop. Added 2.4L of liquid chlorine and will check at lunch
 
Yep, making progress! I think you're a few days off because that's a pretty big drop for half a day. The absence of visible algae is a great sign, but the invisible stuff needs to be annihilated by the Maintain effort. Here's a few things that help shorten a SLAM.

#1 - Maintain FC at 40% of CYA. Maintain. Maintain. (great that you were able to top up at lunchtime, maybe go to 35ish to allow for the drop.
#2 - Brush all surfaces
#3 - Find any hidden algae farms (e.g. water features, behind weir door, under ladders, etc.)
#4 - Eliminate incoming contamination (scoop leaves & bugs, garden runoff, fertiliser, dust)

Don't be disappointed if it takes a few more days. A pool becomes amazing to look at and much easier to care for when the algae is fully gone.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply