Miles' Pool Care - PH and CYA

Understood. We opened the pool in January, so it's been a matter of CYA powder not dissolving in cold water. Regardless have still kept a sock in each skimmer basket in hopes of getting CYA eventually.

Now that water is getting up above 70F, am hoping CYA will start to dissolve a bit more quickly.


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With warmer water temp now, have finally gotten my CYA up to 60. Pool Math app recommending 75. Am in home stretch. This has taken considerable effort considering I started in January with 40 degree water [emoji51]. May not seem like much, but, to me, this feels like a landmark event!
 
Finally got our pool up to the CYA target of 70-75. Have been running the IC60 SWG at 25% output but doesn't quite appear to maintain the FC level of 7.0 am targeting on sunny days. Pump runs from 7:00am to 7:00pm. Water temp 80F on avg.

Should I increase my SWG % or my pump runtime? Wasn't sure what typical IC60 output should be at ideal CYA levels?
 
Miles,

It makes no difference to the life of the cell if you run it longer or harder... So an increase in % is the same as an increase in run time... Whatever floats you boat.. :p

When I look at pool math it appears that your cell will produce a 1.3 ppm increase in your FC when set at 25% and run for 12 hours.

I run my pump 24/7 and right now my SWCG is set at 25% which gives me about 2 ppm a day of FC.. My CYA is between 70 and 80..

I will be running at about 50% come the middle of summer..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Thanks Jim. Very helpful. Was so relieved to finally get my CYA up to 70-80 range. Took months given cold water in Jan [emoji51].

Nevertheless I'm debating changing my schedule from 12 hrs to 24 hrs and subscribing to your constant SWG chlorine generation method.

So far I've wanted to get to a point where I can sustain a somewhat consistent level of FC.

Do you still have to add liquid chlorine ever? Or simply tweak the SWG output %?
 
Miles,

As I suspect you know, SWCGs don't work when the water temp is below about 55 degrees, so in the winter I use Liquid Chlorine.

I almost never use Liquid Chlorine in the summer... I test routinely, once or twice a week, and as I see the FC level dropping I just turn the SWCG % up.. Pretty darn easy to do with ScreenLogic.

I always try to stay at the top end of the FC range so that if it drops, it never gets close to the absolute minimum FC level. If we have a few cloudy days and it goes up, I just leave it alone as it will soon come back down on its own.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jim R, think I may move to your method of running VSP 24x7 at a lower RPM with the SWG to consistently keep the FC up around 7.0+.

Currently, am running VSP from 7a-7pm (12 hrs) @ 55% output but it seems to put me at around FC 6.0-6.5 each day at 7pm.

CYA is at 70 ppm.
 
Miles,

With a CYA of 70 you just need to make sure your FC stays well above 3 ppm. Seems to me that the more important number would be what is the FC just before the SWCG kicks in at 7 am. If the FC, at 7 am, is 4 or above then what you are doing appears to be working to me..

I "personally" like the idea of running 24/7 for a couple of reasons but that is not a TFP recommendation.

I believe, rightly or wrongly, that you get more wear and tear on your pump if you start and stop it several times a day.
I like that I'm skimming 24/7
I like believe that running the cell 24/7 gives me a more constant FC level but this is something that I have never tested.

Just because I do it does not make it right, nor the only way to do it... :p

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jim, I agree with your logic on the wear and tear of the pump. Would you
mind sharing your pump schedule? Do you run at a consistent RPM 24 hrs or ramp up during certain hours of the day at a higher RPM? Thanks again!
 

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Miles,

Here are my schedules and below that my pump speeds..

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I don't really think I need so many pump speed changes throughout the day, but I've just been too lazy to change them as it is working well so far.

I would suggest that you can use my schedule for a starting point, but you need to adjust to what works best for you and your pool...

Jim R.
 
What is the significance of the 12:01 AM and 12:01 PM? Instead of simply 12:00 AM or 12:00 PM?

Also, since mirroring your schedule (except for the waterfall), I've noticed every day my pump turns off in the evening and doesn't come back on. Not necessarily a power outage. Trying to figure out what is causing this.
 
What is the significance of the 12:01 AM and 12:01 PM? Instead of simply 12:00 AM or 12:00 PM?

Also, since mirroring your schedule (except for the waterfall), I've noticed every day my pump turns off in the evening and doesn't come back on. Not necessarily a power outage. Trying to figure out what is causing this.

Miles,

I set it up three years ago and I think I did it so that I did not get confused between am and pm, but to be honest I don't really remember.

I don't understand why your pump turns off if you have "Pool" set for 8 am to 8 am... What time does it shut off?

I would delete all the schedules except "Pool" and make sure it runs 24/7 and then add back the feature circuits..

I would look under "IntelliFlo Pool" and see if the "Pool" icon turns off.. It should stay green 24/7, unless you turn it off.

dbtgallery.php


Jim R.

edit.. Keep in mind that if you turn something on and do not set an off schedule, it will run 12 hours by default. You can adjust this under egg timer..
 
I don't understand why your pump turns off if you have "Pool" set for 8 am to 8 am... What time does it shut off?

I would delete all the schedules except "Pool" and make sure it runs 24/7 and then add back the feature circuits..

edit.. Keep in mind that if you turn something on and do not set an off schedule, it will run 12 hours by default. You can adjust this under egg timer..

Jim, after reading your comments about the Egg Timer 12 hr default, I'm convinced I must've clicked on one of the pump run time settings rather than just allowing it to follow the schedule, causing it to turn off after 12 hrs.

This time I set the pump schedule and allowed it to kick on per the schedule, deliberately NOT clicking on any of the pump run options (Pool, Feature 1, etc). So, if it does stop running it was due to some sort of mechanical issue.

More to follow [emoji51]
 
Glad to report since I stopped touching the pump speed presets in the SL mobile app, the schedule has run non-stop 24/7 without issue. Also have IC60 running at 18% output constant that seems to work well. Occasionally I'll add an entire jug (121 oz) of 10% bleach to the pool either before or after we have many bathers to compensate...since I had already stocked up on liquid chlorine.

It did take some time to lower my TA from 90 to 70. Was having to cycle my pH from 7.5/7.8 to 7.2 a few times before it dropped. Now my CSI is right around -0.06 which isn't bad right?
 
Jim R,

Approaching what appears to be an early end to our first swim season with new pool. Should I remove the SWG once the water temp gets down to about 50F? Also, have been using your 24/7 pump schedule. Do you still run your same pump schedule year-round? Or could I then revert back to a 12 hour runtime?

Thanks.
Jason
 
Jason,

Removing the cell is not a requirement, but would make sense if you get deep freezing weather. I leave mine in, and have not seen any issues, but if I had the replacement "pipe" I would probably take it out.

You really only need to run your pump for a few hours a day, so anything over that is your option. I run 24/7 because it I find it works best for me, you just need to run for whatever works best for you.

I would be interested to know if your electrical bill shows any difference with pump on vs. with the pump on...

When the pool water gets below about 60 degrees your cell will start throwing salt reading errors.. Don't get fooled and add a bunch of salt.. I use mine as long as it will still produce chlorine. Somewhere between 60 and 50 mine becomes useless and I start using Liquid Chlorine. The good news is that it does not take much to maintain your FC when the water is cold.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

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